Home DIY

I just want to try the project really - designing something in Fusion 360 and getting one of a few CNC workshops I've come across to knock it up - custom flatpack! Also needs to fit in a 1m wide alcove and fit a 43" TV inside - there's only just enough space for both + 2x18mm board so I think finding an OTP that works is unlikely.

What would you fill this gap with? It used to be plastered right up to the door frame. Someone slamming the door pretty fucking hard damaged the plaster, and I've now removed all the weak pieces.

Caulk is currently my go to, but the gap at the top is about 5mm.

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You could probably go with 6 or 9mm skin ply if you built the desktop as a torsion box.

My concern would be the strength of those hinge/runners and the mounting screws.

Maybe look at fold down legs to support the front edge of the desk?

Pros may chime in with "correct" answers, but I used this to fill after my poor scribing work on the built in wardrobes. From a tube is easier to apply (IMO) in those kind of scenarios. Easy to smooth off with a wet finger too.

torsion box

but that'll involve introducing another material thickness to the design [grinds teeth]

Some drop down legs might be possible, and thinking about it could look quite nice as I could maintain the ply edge detail all the way down the front face when closed. Think it'll still need stays to stop someone* just dropping it to the floor/on to a foot.

*probably me.

Has anybody had experience with ordering and fitting kitchen glass spalshbacks? I need two; hob with electricity socket holes, and one for the windowsill

Silent Gliss curtain track ordered and now fitted. Forgot how much of a dick fitting a bay track is single handed, especially over 9ft in the air. Also, prices have gone up so much since we ordered the one downstairs so went with a cheaper version/model which was much flimsier (fine now it's mounted), which made wrangling the whole thing no fun at all. Still waiting for Everest to sort the window trim.

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But if you go from double thickness 18mm to two 6mm skins and a 25mm inner grid you are close enough to the same thickness and probably a fair bit lighter?

Your probably right, but being a one off I'd end up with a lot of waste, though at 6mm it probably wouldn't be too costly.

I need to get drawing and work out quantities.

Looks just the thing. Thank you!

Oh shit...

Better go check my loft...

Yes, make accurate templates. I did mine in 3mm board. Make sure they fit. Then paint the backs and mirror them or just mirror them if that's the look you want. Of course you can have acid etch etc (but don't it's a grease trap)

If you want to be able to relax when you order the glass take all your sockets off when you do the template and check you can fit the screws for the sockets. You don't need to disconnect the wiring but do switch off the kitchen ring.

That stuff available in sheets is silly money. I tried to spec it for a project once.

Holy shit I just did a Google.

Those prices are insane. I've obviously not bought sheet goods in an aeon... maybe look at 3mm or 6mm MDF and veneer it?

Will post pics tomorrow but i have window reveals that have blown plaster in a few places round the window frames (steel crittall) hacked out the soft stuff and the rest of the plaster looks and feels fine and the masonry isn't crumbling.
Think the problem was made worse by a couple of bodges, one where the lining paper/paint has obviously lifted and bubbled so it has been badly cut back and then filler and painted over, on scraping off the remaining paper and filler i got to the brown fluffy paper that's hard to strip and some black mould, the paper obviously held on to moisture which didn't help.
Also the top light has been badly siliconed as a remedy to draft proofing but has only made the problem worse, i could see grey fluff around it which suggests dirt from outside getting in between the gap along with water blowing in (we found a small puddle on windowsill after the wind/rain) stripping the paint off and the silicone has already made the window shut a lot better.
Main point is what to fill those gaps with? seems a bit too deep to just fill with easyfill or plaster. Cement?

I'm going to leave them to dry out if they can as the exterior of the windows are being done in a couple of months (6th floor so nothing i can do myself outside) and the reveal will be skimmed in the coming weeks.

Think there's going to be a few more questions for this thread...

the ikea bed is called malmo, got it last year in Greenwhich I think but we wanted it lower and with a wider mattress.

thanks. everything that’s up (slats and gas spring) is ikea, the wooden base is made.

Have you seen the price of veneer?

Not recently as I've not had a need.

When I need smaller quantities of veneer I've always used this:

slhardwoods Flexi veneer

These days I usually stick to the local sawmills as it's cheaper than ply or b&q shitimber

That's pretty good value if 300mm wide is enough for the project. The 8'x4' sheets are money these days.

Caulk then paint or paint then caulk? Skirting, door gaps etc.

Caulk then paint, bare caulk gets very dusty dirty

Because they are machine cut the sides butt up pretty neatly. I've used them for boxes and small cabinet doors in the past just fine.

Since your comment I've been looking at bigger sheets again and I nearly had a heart attack.

I want to put an electric towel rail in my bathroom. It needs to be spurred (presumably fused isolator) from a socket in the bedroom next door. It also needs to be quite high up the wall.

The “best” aesthetically and practically would be to put a socket on the other side of the wall from it, put an isolator next to itand run the wires up the bedroom wall vertically from the isolater and then pop them through to the bathroom. I think this might be too many spurs from the original socket.

I don’t think I can run a cable round from the two gang buried in the plaster within 15cm of the floor and just pop it through, because the towel rail won’t be high enough.

I don’t especially want an isolater half way up the bedroom wall (ie on the back of the towel rail wall)

Any suggestions please? [Artist’s impression]

Edit: maybe I can make the towel rail within 15cm of the corner of the bathroom, and run the cable vertically up there? I think that’s nearer than I’d want it to be

Get some cool colour cable and do a neat little loop under the towel rail.

The go straight into the back of the socket the other side.

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