Home DIY

I’m going to put up shed against the side of this outdoor socket. It’s going to be too close to open the lid enough to get a plug in. I’d rather not move the box to the front of the building so…

Does anyone know of a particularly low-profile outdoor socket box?
If I did have to move it, what’s the best looking outdoor socket box that’d look good against the weathered wooden surface? Ideally black. Saw some Gira bits online but were Euro plugs and not IP66 rated.

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Thank you, I think I can’t do that exactly due to it being a spur from a spur from a socket. But I think I can do that if I skip the intermediate socket and just spur the heater from the socket, keeping the cable within 15cm of the corner of the rooms.

Thank you!

This, or there must be a cheaper similar version somewhere.

If you can’t open it then you can never change whatever is plugged into it, and if the fuse in the plug blows, you have to move the shed?

Edit: you need to buy a £65 plug that fits into it! Maybe not

Edit: you need to buy a £65 plug that fits into it! Maybe not

Spendy plug just for weather proofing, standard plugs ok to use if it's dry?

That could look good on the front of the building, thanks. Will have a look if there’s a cheaper version.

Lower profile question was to find something that could be opened enough to get the plug in and out in the current location. Tools etc. Not an ideal spot for a shed but the only spot!

I am not an expert, but I would think it would have zero waterproofing at all, so would work fine but not suitable for outside.

You get flush fit units. Would need notched into the wood but would look pretty darn sweet when done if done correctly.

Pretty sure they’re originally caravan? Fittings

If you’re not selling any time soon and you’re prepared to do some DIY [presumably….!] then this or this might work? Wouldn’t be up to code. The second link has rubber grommets etc

could you not just take the socket off, pull the cable back into the shed, attach a junction box, run a new length of cable to the front corner of the shed and replace the socket there?

Any forum recommendations for LED strip lighting? (Kitchen) No golf club please

Going to sound like a thick question, but trying to work out how to put the cabinet door on the new freezer.

The old one had hinges screwed into the freezer. However, the instructions for the freezer look like you need the cabinet door fitted first.

Now I'm thinking about it, it makes sense to support a massive heavy bit of chipboard on its own hinges, rather than the freezer. But wanted to check.

Our fridge has both.

As I'm not that impressed with the fit and finish of our inherited kitchen (Howdens), I'm not that inclined to take the fridge or the OG freezer installation as my guide.

Any pointers?

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Excuse the photos. My phone does not seem to want to focus any more.

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Looks like one of those damper things for soft close doors?

In reply to my own question above the answer is prime with SBR and use a cement based mortar. (as informed by friend/ex builder)
Pics of the offending holes, Crittall windows are fine under all the layers of paint though, don’t think you could say the same for UPVC after 70 years ..

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Yeah I deleted the post as I had a go at trying to stick it on hinges and it worked.

I wanted to swap out my too long spout for a shorter one but the threads on the existing are a lot shorter/tighter.
Can anyone identify if an adaptor exists that may work?

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Will be fitting skirting soon with a view to carpeting the room soon after. Should the boards go flush to the floor or leave a gap to tuck the carpet under?

If the threads fit together like this (might have to take that rubber grommet off to check):

then they're probably the same, in which case you could cut the longer one down a bit to fit. In my experience plumbing threads are all over the shop with loads of "standards" in use, and that's not even counting manufacturer's own weird threads.

tl:dr - get a new spout from the same manufacturer, or get a new tap. Or maybe it'll fit with a trim. I'd bet the farm on no adaptor existing.

Flush to the floor, or about as close as you can get it.

Thanks. I still can't figure out how you get a neat finish with the carpet butting up to it, but I guess this is why I'll not be fitting it (though I should probably try and learn)

The gripper strips will be laid with a space between them and the skirting. The carpet will then be tucked over the edge of those and kind of down the face of the skirting.

have 3 floors to sand and oil, one is stripwood iroko, the other 2 are bedrooms with pine which was carpeted.
plan is to stain a darker/redder colour to go some way towards matching the iroko floor.
The pine is tongue and groove nailed to joists with narrow gaps of about 2-4mm, not sure what to fill them with? if i use sanding dust and resin it will likely be too light, seem to be various products out there ready mixed and coloured but no idea if they are any good?
having typed this out i may have answered my own question and could use the iroko dust to make it darker but would use an off the shelf product if they are any good?

Thanks, I located the diagrams one is ‘1/2 BSP and one 1/2 G. Still difficult to work out what this means!

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1/2" G and 1/2" BSP are the same thing.