Dynamo Lights

worth checking bolt diameter for the august ones.

I saw Omnium (cargo bike makers) are/have released exactly this for their cargo bikes. Think I saw it on Instagram, so might be a “coming soon”, but might fit the bill?

Edit: https://www.instagram.com/p/CloQhm0MHwC/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

They make this

https://supernova-lights.com/en-en/products/seat-post-clamp-silber

Goes on the post though, it's not a frame-post clamp

If you are looking for a custom barrel nut for your seat clamp, ping us an email over at the august bicycles website with the dimensions of your barrel nut. We have made plenty of custom ones over the years and we made some specific ones for Mason and Firefly among others.

Oven cleaner the Mason one? Wouldn’t take long to polish up given the size.

Could you not just put it here?

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Big dredge but does anyone have experience using these mounts? I run Velo Orange mudguards with an additional supporting stay on the front guard. They're rock solid and I'd like to try this out.

Does the light beam noticeably wobble when mounted here? Does the light pick up loads of spray?

Always had my lights on fork crown or rack, but if you have a stay there I wouldn't worry too much.

Got my first dynamo light set up. Great so far but not so sure about the standlight. Got an SP hub with a Edelux ii front light. I had expected a drop in light when I stopped but not this much, feels like I need a regular light alongside for commuting. Is this the norm?

Also the switch ring on the Edelux doesn't seem to do anything no matter the position so maybe just a faulty unit overall?

I think you just need to get used to the level of light on standlight mode - it's still enough to be seen by other road users when you pause at junctions etc., but obviously is a long way below moving levels.
The switch ring dictates when the light comes on, by covering or uncovering a tiny light sensor on the bottom. At this time of year it's perfectly possible that it's dark enough all the time to make it appear that it isn't doing anything, but in the summer of you have it in the automatic position (sensor uncovered) it will not come on in bright sunlight, but then will in tunnels/under trees etc. I just leave mine on permanently all the time though.

Thanks, that's good to know. Will do a little test on the way home today, lean it against a tree a walk away a bit too see what it's like

Then you'll have to stand at the side of the road whilst you ride past to compare

Selling 2x rack mount E3 tail lights, if anyone is interested.

1. Brand new, never used. Comes with box and fittings, wire uncut. £25

2. Used, full working order. Shorter cable which is easy enough to lengthen. £15

Either can be supplied with the pictured Framebuilder Supply seat stay mount (shipped over from Portland) for an extra £15.

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Yes please. I'll take the cut one.

Cool you have PM

I'll take the new one with seat stay mount please

Any advice re cable routing would be very helpful, thanks.

First dynamo set up, for girlfriend's bike that gets parked in public quite a bit so needs to be fairly robust. No obvious options for running things internally (except rack, see q below). She locks up via seat or top tube so have opted for a path via downtube.

Start: BM Cyo N Plus (standard bracket), finish: rack-mounted BM Toplight. I've added (too) small numbers where I've got particular questions

1, 2 & 3- is running it through the spare downtube cable adjuster braze-on (1) around the bottle lugs (2) or bottom bracket guides (3) useful or will that just fret the cable in time?
4 - the Tubus rack leg is open at the bottom so drilling a hole at the top would let me run it through and get it out of the way of bags - is this ok to do?

Also, I have no real clue as to how many loops round the downtube I should do and if anyone can point to a comprehensive idiot's guide to cable routing, I'd love to see. Easy to overthink this and perhaps I am but have spent a bit of time here and elsewhere but haven't seen anything Sheldon-like in basics + detail.

Thanks all.

You can run the wire on the inside of your GB mudguards, where the metal is folded over. Is easy to do and looks neat. I wouldn't bother with trying to run is through the cable adjuster / around lugs and guides, just a couple of small zip ties are enough, and means you don't have to coil it around the downtube.

Rather than corkscrewing it around the tubes, I'd be inclined to attach it to the rear derailleur cable to get it down to the BB. Neatest would be heat shrink, although that would mean undoing the cable. Zip ties or spiral wrap would be an alternative. Then zip tie it to the chainstay before running it through the mudguards as psb suggested. Should give a pretty much invisible installation.

From front light to bike, you can do this to create a coil to allow for movement, tends to stay in shape fairly well:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lovely_bicycle/6297144534/

You can get coloured zip ties so you’d be able to get something less conspicuous than plain black for the down tube, as in some bits of this:

http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/11/aftermarket-dynamo-lights-clean-look.html

Heat shrink along the gear cable down to the BB would be neat, as mentioned.

As for the mudguard, SKS do a kit for this but of course there is no way of knowing if the clips will work on your guards, and you don’t need the wire, but it shows that they think some kind of protection is a good idea inside the guard:

https://www.bikester.co.uk/sks-cable-routing-kit-M172682.html?vgid=G8515&cgid=37004#&gid=null&pid=1

I used this stuff for part of my dynamo wire run - wire just about pulled through it with a bit of soapy water:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001BPRZP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PM me if you want some

Great, thanks @psb and @Brommers - just to check, if the rear derailleur cable is unsealed then pegging the dynamo cable to it whether via zip-tying/heatshrinking is ok, the movement doesn't bother it over time? Suppose best to make sure slack either end?

Not sure I can run inside the mudguard as the folded edges are sealed at the ends + the guard starts well below the BB and ends well after the light fitting on the rack so would be a lot of doubling back/saggy loops unless I drilled early entrance/exit holes. But I could ziptie/heatshrink piggyback along the RD cable along the driveside chainstay then possibly up the rack leg (once I've thought about whether drilling a hole would be ok. It'd have to be 3mm diameter, not insignificant...)

And thanks @Sergeant_Pluck - those links are very helpful and I didn't know about coloured zip ties which would be good. Cheers too for the micro tube, not sure at the moment - where did you use yours?

Edit, just read a discussion on the CTC forum about drilling into a Tubus rack (albeit a Ti one). Consensus is bad idea. Also hadn't thought about rubber grommets to stop the rubbing so a 3mm hole becomes at least 4mm for the grommets+cable and that seems way too much for a fairly minimal rack.

I drilled my tubus rack for dynamo routing 😬 :)

Hope it’s alright!

You could use gear cable liner on the exposed cable to prevent rub on the Dyno wire

micro tube, not sure at the moment - where did you use yours?

I used mine in a different sort of set up to yours, no rack. Ran wire up the back of the seat tube and used the hose to protect it thinking I might not always have mudguards on. On the down tube I heat shrunk the wire itself along the brake hose. The hose is fairly flexible and would work well clipped inside a mudguard.

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Any more pics/info on this bike? Looks great.