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  • Those small jobs you are best just to book the trade in and suck up whatever it costs.

    It's the quoting most trades aren't interested in not the work.

  • He perhaps doesn’t want to sink time into quoting to compete for a tiny job not worth much money (compared to doing a whole roof etc).

    I understand why people want quotes, but I think the culture of wanting multiple quotes for every job has driven a lot of tradespeople away from even wanting to offer them.

  • How else do you go about it if not “how much will this cost?” I doubt Pmc was expecting a full breakdown of labour and material

  • "my room is 4mx4m roughly how much to skim it? I know any number you give me will be an approximation."

    "Yes thanks when can I book you in to do it?"

    "Cash or bank transfer?"

  • True, but the question might actually need to be "would you fit a vent tile for my extractor?" because the job alone may be too small in the first place, even to offer a finger in the air price.

    I also appreciate it's a fucking nightmare getting trades to do anything in the UK at the moment.

  • How’s everyone else’s Sunday going?

    https://youtube.com/shorts/s1A9vLypsv0

  • I'd chuck a towel down on that if I were you, probably be alright

    Trying to fit a u-bend myself, why are solvent weld and push fit 40mm pipes not the same 40mm?!

  • That your place?

  • We've got this lttle residual nubbin that comes out of our kitchen floor [previously hidden by cabinets]. We did ask the builders to sort it but they didn't before they levelled the floor, about 15mm thick.
    I want to chip the levelling mixture down, cut the pipe, cap it off, and re-level over the top. It's below the level of the system drain, so it's doing to be a real pain to completely empty the system to allow soldering.
    Unfortunately I don't actually know where it connects to.

    Do we reckon a well-taped and compression-joint-pasted compression stop end would be ok? Or even just one of these fancy push-fits?


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  • That looks like gas to me…

  • Yup. Elbow joint for outdoor tap separated under the sink.

    I was out with the little one at football and wife was in the shower. Probably running for 10-15 mins before isolated.

    Spent the rest of the day with the wet vac and towels.

  • Ah fuck. That’s a rough Sunday.

  • Thanks, that's a good point I should have considered.

    The pipework in this house is...creative...to say the least.
    Fortunately we're about to have the gas line redone so it runs on the outside wall around to the boiler, so we can pull out all the exposed internal gas pipes. I won't touch this until that's done, just in case. If it's gas then I guess I can just cut it level once that work is done.

    If it is water instead of gas, my question still stands. Any thoughts?

  • +1
    Not sure why you’d have a single cold feed there like that, surely it’s gas?

  • Just to outdo @Soul s rail discount, I went to my local tool supplier to get the 3 metre Makita rail. Paid the £105 and went round the back to get it. The guys in their warehouse rummaged around for a good 15 minutes, before asking if I needed it this weekend. Had set time aside for a project, so could truthfully say yes. They then handed me a Festool FS 3000/2 at no extra charge...

  • And speaking of rails: FS-WA/90° or one of the third party ones?

  • Is it that the makita saw fits on the festool rail, but the festool saw doesn’t fit on the makita rail?
    I’d be tempted to punt the festool and get the makita when you can, I always envied the anti tip over groove on the makita!

    I think the benchdogs rail square is highly regarded, but there’s loads out there now.

  • Not much of a post but we haven't yet had any mold on our bathroom ceiling since painting with Ronseal antimold paint.

    Quite pleased as it was a bit of a last min slapdash job in the gap between jobs and whilst looking after child no2.

    Now very tempted in the spring to go around and do a proper job in all the window recesses.

  • "In this instance, the Makita track is not compatible with the Festool saw. The detail of the anti-tipping features doesn’t make for a comfortable fit. Since bevel cuts require great accuracy, if you have a Festool saw, it’s best to have Festool tracks if you will be making bevel cuts."
    From here: https://www.obsessedwoodworking.com/is-the-makita-track-compatible-with-a-festool-track-saw/

    Yeah, thought about selling it and using the extra cash on a rail square. Ended up not using it on the weekend, so the plastic strip is intact. Will probably post it in the local carpenter/woodworking groups and see what happens.
    Edit: And that Benchdogs one does look nice!

  • Slowly building up the gap with big gap filler and got hold of some angle bead to form some structure. I'll keep at it throughout the week and see how I get on.


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  • Might have to pick some of this up for our kitchen, thanks

  • Do keep sending photos please! I have to do something similar.

  • Alternatively there is a product for exteriors called rock solid repair filler which is designed to avoid the need for formwork. @Familyman has gone the old school route, nicely done though.

  • Veeery slow progress on the infill scribing and fitting. Did the left hand today (need to find gaps in work and parenting to mark, cut, paint (2 coats), fit and fill. Jigsaw is too loud to use when mini_com is asleep next door). My scribing work is appalling. But, filler and paint make me the joiner I ain't.


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Home DIY

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