Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I’m sure this has been asked and answered before but I’m currently on tour with just my phone and patchy internet so my UTFS skills are low.

I have an XT M781 rear mech and GRX 2x10 cranks and want to lower the gearing beyond the Shimano recommendations.

Mech - max capacity 43t, max cog size 36t
Cranks - 46/30

I’m currently running an 11-36t cassette but would like to change to 11-40t or 11-42t.

How much over the quoted shimano tolerances can I push the tooth count?

I reckon that'll do 40t or you could get an M6000 deore which is rated for 42t.

Thanks

We’ve got 16000m of climbing in the upcoming 900km which should be a fairly decent test of the current gearing and help decide on cassette choices later down the line.

Not sure if this is the right place for this but... I have some Shimano Deore levers and post mount calipers. New frame does not like post mount, even with an adaptor. Just not enough room.

Does anyone know would a 105 flat mount caliper work with Deore levers? Struggling to understand cross compatability...

Thanks in advance!

Yeah, all the Shimanos work with each other.

Ace! Ta very much

and @snottyotter

Forgot to say thanks. Built a support out of wood I had lying around, soaked it in WD40 and it came out eventually. Ironically the noise I was trying to address turned out to be a VERY rusty headset lower bearing which I've cleaned up and greased while I wait for a replacement.

Chain wear tool was one of the tools I didn't see the need for but once I got one, it turned out to be very useful. For a few quid I'm surprised it doesn't come in those cheap tool boxes.

Noticed that I'm missing the bearings for lower headset cup. It's 1 1/8 threaded headset. Are these all a standard size or specific to manufacturer?

1 Attachment

If it’s the same size cup, it’ll take the same size bearings. I haven’t heard of manufacturer-specific bearing sizes, they’re usually standard sizing in fractions of an inch.

From reading about the headset that came with the Kona Lava Dome, sounds like it used oversized bearings on the bottom, I don't know what that means. Anyway, doesn't matter as I think I'll install a new headset.

I'm looking to get a Kona Project 2 fork. I've seen a few on ebay, but the steerer on all of them are way longer than I need. Headtube on my bike is 110mm. Question is, can the steerer be cut down and new threads added after shortening, and if so, where can these be done in the Central/SE London area.

if not bikefix then varhona frameworks surely can

Varonha was reluctant to do mine when I asked. Ended up getting it done at SBC. Couple of years ago now…

Thanks, I've contacted SBC so see what they say, otherwise BikeFix as option 2

What wheel size? I have a 29er one floating about. Unused.

A threadless headset and stem might be cheaper (and would arguably function better) than getting the steerer chopped and threaded.

I'm slowly coming to that thinking too. But what fork will do in lieu of the Kona P2?
@dancing james looking for 26er

just bought some new canti bosses for some cx forks. They come with little plates with the holes for the sprung little nodule. these seem to be held in place by the torque of the boss, you need to line them up by eye.
i might be wrong about this but my question is that undoing the canti bolt also undoes the boss from the fork? now i can’t get the boss out of the canti assembly. grr!

Great to hear, thanks! I'll try doing the same

Truing up rotors then the tools and skill or luck of the draw bending in/out of shape . I have made a small kink into a s bend😩

I just do it with whatever is at hand, usually clean it first. If I've not got a tool and can't be bothered reaching it I'm pretty good with an allen key leveraged between the centre of the rotor and the bent bit or just a clean rag and by hand. There are occasions where it's damaged beyond repair though, usually when it's a small kink.

Stick some loctite in the threads that hold the bosses into the forks.

If you just want to get stuff apart now, wrap some innertube around the threads, clamp in a vice or with some big pliers and undo the bolt holding the cantilever on.

Use the P2. Just cut the threaded part of the steerer off.

You can also clamp to the threaded part if cutting it off would make the steerer too short. But I didn't tell you that. Also but, I've done it, it's fine.

Would still need to find a P2 that is reasonably priced. So to run it threadless I'd need 18cm of steerer (11cm headtube, 3cm stack of headset and 4cm stem)?
Any thoughts on Oxford fork? Link