Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Yeah I would have expected a soft feeling is what I mean! Never equated the chain stay with the spider but you definitely have a point. Probably not the flex (and not at that point of the stay surely?) because this didn’t happen when climbing, but when going straight..

Also have approx 2-4mm clearance on the mudguards so should have been quite alright on that front I would have thought! Either that or the rubber straps holding them to the chainstay should have popped off..

Does anyone know if there is a general TPI for crank bolts/dust caps?

I need to secure my BB tool in place with a bolt but the TPI is higher than any bolt I have. I guess there must be some kind of standard for those BB tools that secure in place into the crank bolt thread?

If it's square taper one of [these](https://www.fruugo.co.uk/risk-rl215-bike-bicycle-square-spline-axis-bb-bottom-bracket-anti-drop-auxiliary-removal-disassembly-repair-tool-fixing-rod/p-89285335-186133390?language=en&ac=bing&msclkid=06ffe751d8e61df980df85a105daeeec&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(10-20%5D_GB&utm_term=4574861728856401&utm_content=GB%20-%20(10-20%5D) should help - I've got no idea what fruugo is though so can't vouch for the website!

Edit - link looks massive but should be correct

Yes that would definitely work. I was kinda just hoping to go and buy a single bolt from somewhere and use that but if I can't find one I'll just get something like that.

Pretty sure it’s m8 x 1.0 (fine thread)

It is. Deffers.

Can confirm.

Not sure if this is the right place - thinking of buying a new steel frame - the front derailleur bolt has been overtightened and resulted in a dent. Is this safe? easy fix/worth fixing?

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That’ll be right in the area where the butt ends (if it’s a butted tube) so chances of it developing into a crack are probably a lot worse than a dent elsewhere in the tube.

Unless it’s something really special I’d continue looking.

Thanks mate, I'll give this one a pass then. Cheers

hello, I'm really stuck trying to find somewhere who can have a go at helicoiling my crank thru-axle. the thread is an m18 and many shops I've spoken to say they don't have this size and are not sure about buying a kit just for my job. Winston Vaz, bless his heart, said I wasn't by any means the first person who had asked him about this and said try a forum. De Ver's mechanic who presides over the helicoil kit is away. it's a BB30 axle with, I reckon, plenty of meat on it so drilling the thread out and retapping won't cause a snap (famous last words/litigation getout)
edit: having looked into this a bit i think it might be worth trying to retap without drilling out and helicoiling. the tap i need will be an m18x 1 i think. does anyone have or know who might be able to help with this if not a helicoil?

I converted my ebike to single speed, and I used all 1/8 drivetrain parts. I had to get a chain tensioner and it's my first time actually using one. I got the XLC CR-A03.

However, it seems the track chain I'm using is a bit too wide for this tensioner and under stress will rub against the little cage shown in the picture - and the master link, which sticks out about 1mm, rubs against it every single rotation no matter what.

I've not seen anyone mention this online and it seems brands don't even specify if their tensioners are supposed to work with 1/8 or 3/32 chains, which I find strange and leads me to believe it's me who's done something wrong here. Or is this expected?

I really don't want to spend money on a 3/32 cog, chain and chainring now...

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Can you bend it a bit or just get rid?

I'm trying to get a press fit bb out of a carbon frame. I've got one side out with my BBB "whack it with a hammer" extractor but the other side won't shift.

Any ideas on what to do other than taking it to the LBS?

Whack it harder.

Apply wd40 and ice. Double check the remover is against the cup and not caught on the shell somehow. Whack it harder.

Double check the remover is against the cup and not caught on the shell somehow

This bit is important, do it everytime you need to adjust the remover, otherwise it can be an expensive call to a carbon repair place. It's also much easier to remove if you've got someone or something bracing the frame against the direction you're whacking.

I’m looking for a new pair of Shimano qr skewers for a disc frame with standard 100/135 spacing and I’m not sure how to figure out which are compatible. The hubs are Mavic if that makes a difference. I was looking on SJS and all the Shimano ones say they’re only compatible with specific Shimano hubs. Is that right? For example, could I use this for the rear? https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/shimano-slx-fhm7000-quick-release-skewer-135mm-y39j98020/

I would assume skewer is skewer? As in as long as it's 135 it'll fit.

Interested in buying this used frame, but seller has noted a small dent on the downtube as photographed. Will this be an issue with the steel frame or is it safe to ride and forget?

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Mate assking me to fix his chain that keeps slipping. It’s 9-speed shimano Altus on a cheap carrera Halfords job. Can anyone tell from the photo whether the chain link is bent or the chain pin has bent. If that makes sense (just trying to diagnose whether to get a quick link or a set of 9-speed pins)

Edit: Also will as standard KMC 9-speed quick link work on a chain like this?

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Hey thanks yeah that's what I would have expected. Maybe it's just Shimano marketing.

I have exactly the same thing. I crushed/bent the cage to give it more width and it has lasted many muddy winters

Best guess from that pic is it's a regular link that has started to come apart. I'd drive out the pins and replace with a quick link. I've never had problems mixing and matching brands of chain/link.

However, if the chain keeps slipping, I'd suggest that's more down to overall wear than that one link. Probably drivetrain replacement time.

I would hazard a guess that it will not cause any issues within the lifetime of the frame