Any question answered...

It's not a piece cut to size, it's the offcut of a slab I bought, which my actual worktops have used less than half of, which I had to pay for in full, which the worktop company tell me is not, in fact, my slab, I just bought it for them. But I can have it if I collect it this week. And right now I'm feeling bloody minded enough to get it even if it will be in several pieces.

Sell it dead cheap for collection only and get someone to pick it up?

I'm feeling bloody minded enough to get it even if it will be in several pieces.

If it's in enough pieces, you can lift it into your Meriva, 165kg is only the weight of two passengers 🙂

How much would they charge you to cut it up? 1.7m×1.8m would make a dozen pastry boards, and at 14kg a piece you won't even need any strong men to help you load them.

I am going to see if anyone on the Kitchens thread fancies it! But current marble trends are for lots of "movement" and this is just boring old grey/white carrara

If you go on the kitchens thread then sell it for more.

I have a set of 7710 cranks and the nds one currently has a bit of play or slack (not sure exactly how to explain it) whenever I pull up on the downstroke or resist the pedals before it stops, and then when I go to pedal again it has to move the cm or few degrees worth of a pedal stroke before it is pushing against the chain again. Still useable since its on my track bike so I dont resist the pedals too much but still irritating.

Is this likely to be a fucked BB or crank threads? Both were used when I got them.

If it's moving relative to the drive side, it's most likely fucked internal spline in the crank itself, usually caused by the bolt having worked loose allowing the crank to move on the axle. Take it apart and inspect, although it's likely already too far gone to save.

Yeah that's what I was afraid of, will do, thanks

Remember to check both sides, it could equally be the NDS+axle moving relative to the DS as the NDS moving relative to the DS+axle.

For anybody not familiar with the history, Shimano quickly but quietly increased the spline length of Octalink after this kind of failure started happening, but the fix was applied only to the road and MTB kit, not the track cranks. Presumably investing in new forge tools for the tiny track market was too much for them, and when used as intended on a velodrome the track cranks are not generally subjected to the shock loads which are most likely to precipitate failure.

Why don’t pedals and cranks have an angled interface, like lug nuts on cars, instead of two flat surfaces?

I always thought the angled interface was to help centre the part (wheel) where it needed to go. Cars/wheels with their interchangeability having a much broader tolerance than bike parts. Plus, you don't need to centre the pedal, the axle does that itself.

Why don’t pedals and cranks have an angled interface, like lug nuts on cars, instead of two flat surfaces?

Because the standards were already set in stone before people realised you could prevent precession by using a chamfer, instead of having to go to the trouble of cutting mirrored threads to cope with the mirror-image precession forces. Some early motor car and truck rims bolted to the hubs with flat head fasteners and handed threads before the better solution was proven. Like many cycle-related conventions, it's too late to go back now even when the convention is less than perfect, but especially with pedal threads because so many people use cranks and pedals from different manufacturers. It would take everybody to agree all at once to adopt a new standard, and you'd still piss people off by sending out new bikes with chamfered all-RH threaded cranks because so many many people bring their old pedals with them on new bike day.

It would take everybody to agree all at once to adopt a new standard

This concern has never stopped Shimano in the past

thought the angled interface was to help centre the part

No, the rim has a centre bore and the hub has a matching shoulder to centre the rim on the hub. In modern manufacturing, the bolt circle is pretty accurately concentric with the centre bore, and the small amount of slack is taken up by having everything flex a bit, because the world is made of rubber.

And look how well that went 🙂 I think the 1" thread was a good idea even without the swing-pedal feature, but nobody bought into it. Using a larger diameter thread allows the use of shorter thread, which opens up options for reduced Q and thinner cranks for the aeros

TIL: There was a Deore DynaDrive crank/pedal as well as the well known DuraAce AX.

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No, the rim has a centre bore and the hub has a matching shoulder to centre the rim on the hub. In modern manufacturing, the bolt circle is pretty accurately concentric with the centre bore, and the small amount of slack is taken up by having everything flex a bit, because the world is made of rubber.

That's not always the case. Quite a few wheels centre on the studs/bolts. Old 3-stud Citroen, wide-5 VW, wide-5 Ford, early Ford wires, 60s Ford 4 just to name a few that I'm familiar with.

the pedals fell off though didn’t they? I had a set and they came off when riding once

I had a set and they came off when riding

What torque did you use to tighten them?

not always the case

There are always exceptions 🙂

Well evidently not enough, but the large nut + relatively few threads meant they didn't stay in a way a normal pedal did

Edit: ignore

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If I want to apply another layer of jb weld (traditional), should I key the surface of the JB Weld first?

Inital search results say wait a min of 8hrs and make sure it's clean. But wondered what others thought.

Has anyone taken/know anyone who offers adult drum lessons in SE?

Anyone have experience with the newer cheapie Shimano BB, the un300?

I just ordered one from CRC and you can feel it click faintly all the way around as you manipulate the spindle... like a mild version of the volume knob on a 70s hifi.

Should I return it, or are they all like that...?