Home DIY

Make them prepared for the day someone wants to hang a mirror from them.

Have you smashed off all the blown plaster? (it looks like it goes a good 8"+ from the holes) or is the project going unnoticed.

Wee Bosch jigsaw was bangin for scribing today @Bobbo. Also, hitting a timber stud when you think you’ve got 20 plasterboard holes to plug 🙏🏻

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Beautiful!

Very nice.

5.5mm over the frame?

They did a little at first but I sorted that out with some careful strategic flattening of the back of my trouser leg.

0.5mm…

Picked up a mitre saw stand from the new Screwfix. Always wanted one and it was only £40.

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Also got a cute little disc sander from Lidl, when I went in for milk, as per fucking usual.

@hugo7 I have 12 black twin slot brackets, 270mm length.

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I'm mainly just staring at it pondering what I can get away with. Taking off all the plaster will probably make the gaps big enough that it will be a lot trickier for me to get it flat.

Assume it's steel or alu then.

Be warned if your not paying attention with those it's very easy to sand the tips of your fingers.............

So I've heard.

I can well imagine. Just chuffed it can take the same discs as my RO Sanders (and I have a million discs). Hoping it will help me true up my terrible hand sawing on smaller bits.

Yup, doors are 2mm laser cut ribs, 40x20 and 20x20 ERW section and 0.5mm skin, all powdercoated steel. Oak cheeks for the hinges, radiata shelves.

You never get it flat first time. Fill it nearly proud with something that's rated for deep filling (like bonding). Then use a filler like TX110 to float a thin layer over the top. When it's started to dry, within a few hours that is, use a sponge and feather the edges and add a little texture to the filler. Then use Gardz to seal it before painting with emulsion.

Check after the Gardz that you have a smooth surface, sometimes bubbles get in the filler and the surface is covered in microbubbles. In that case you need yet another layer of fine surface filler on the Gardz and sponge flat.

That's how I do it if I'm dealing with a whole room of problems and of course I have all the materials and tools it makes sense because I'm buying them to do a lot of jobs so there's the economy of scale.

If you really want it to disappear that method will work but mostly people are not doing all those steps and it's livable.

Cheers. The trouble I found last time was that for the big bits I didn't always get it standing proud. On the wider expanses it was easy to dig the knife in and end up with it below the level and not realise. I got there in the end but it was pretty slow.

It doesn't need to be perfect (it's a victorian house so there are always going to be some cracks) but I would prefer it if it didn't look terrible.

Use something wider than the hole (like a bit of wood) or preferably a plasterers float. You will get close enough and can add a little if it shrinks.

If you try and fill it flush in one go it will shrink.

Thanks f👍👍

Can someone recommend a tough silk varnish for a tabletop. Have had a go at that Japanese Sugi something burning.

Not sure it's 100% successful but at least it's black (ish) lol

Two part bar top is about as hard as it gets all the way down to furniture wax finish which should have underlayers of shellac, which is more french polishing territory, I can't imagine the burning that has been done but a more middling ground is pollyvine waterbased floor varnish or osmo polyx.
In recent pages finishing products (oils [and mineral], that I've not heard of) have been mentioned.

If anyone could use two full skirting boards (pine, not primed), a couple of big sheets of 5mm ply and a length of 50mm x 50mm wood, please come and get it from E12.

There's no room for it but it seems a shame to dump it

If someone picks up on it an image of the wood type size and state of the table top (&leggs) may help.

water is leaking behind this

It has a rubber seal around it all and was attached to the tiles with silicone from 7pm to 5pm on the back of the plate

The rubber seal is probably doing nothing and the silicone had failed.

When I re-attach, what is the best way? same as it was?. Is there much point in using the rubber seal? Anything stopping me from using silicone on the outside 7pm-5pm instead/as well? seems like it would be be better water proofed. Not overly fussed about looks the shower doesn't actually look like the above, its a 20 year old triton.

should I silicone round the faucets too (from the back)?

Thanks, I'll have a mooch around here :)

https://polyvine.com/index.php/en/?utm_source=gsn&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=2022_search_campaign&utm_content=polyvine_varnish&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9sHswpy89wIVSrDtCh3AiQeeEAAYASAAEgKDS_D_BwE

I have a couple of Ikea Benno CD towers that I want to mount on the wall horizontally as shelves. The sides of the tower which will become the shelves are birch-faced chipboard and fixed at 3 points (top, bottom, middle fixed shelf).

I was thinking to simply rest it on some twin slot brackets (some more shelving is going above and could extend the uprights down), but given it feels fairly study I'm now thinking of using French cleats to fix directly to the wall, it'll look cleaner. The sides/shelves protrude slightly past the backing board which gives enough room to hide the cleat.

My concern is that the 'upper' shelf will be supported and the 'lower' shelf will be hanging from these 3 points. Anyone done something similar? It's CDs going back in so not massively heavy. Wondering if it's worth screwing in a few more of the loose shelves (the little square ones) to act as dividers and more contact points, but not sure if regular screws will do much in chipboard or just pull out. The ones Ikea use have that massive thread on them.