Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

I think the b-gap is the variable in my set up that caused some of the issues. When set to the correct spec with the sram tool it didn't feel right. A lot of trial and error with just how it feels got me to where it is now.
But its incredibly annoying that it didn't feel right when set with the correct tool.

Chain length with the Kogels I'm not sure about. I set chain length using the shimano method, round chainring and biggest cog then added 5 links.

Basically undo the rear der and bolt it back on again properly

done this and it seems to be working now...! unsure how/why. does need re-indexing though for sure

also checked it off the bike as @Dammit recommended and it seems to work fine

thanks all for the advice. will keep an eye on it... not sure i am out of the woods. how could it have worked fine for the first 20 mins yesterday and then suddenly stop working?

i checked it on e tube (IT dept let me install it) and it says everything was fine. did a clean install of the firmware too

Fair enough. I've not seen that but I've not crashed mine hard enough yet. (I mean, I have but I've crashed it so hard there's no recovery mode gonna save it :D)

Mine did similar to sweedee's because I'd installed in a rush and it slipped its position on the hanger lip and so changed through the whole block once and then stopped moving. Once I removed it and reinstalled it (getting the B screw etc right this time) it was fine.

done this and it seems to be working now...!

#hippyisalwaysright

how could it have worked fine for the first 20 mins yesterday and then suddenly stop working?

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16091408/

done this and it seems to be working now...! unsure how/why. does need re-indexing though for sure

also checked it off the bike as @Dammit recommended and it seems to work fine

thanks all for the advice. will keep an eye on it... not sure i am out of the woods. how could it have worked fine for the first 20 mins yesterday and then suddenly stop working?

I would predict there's some resistance (or, possible, there was some resistance) that made the system back off before damaging something.

Taking it apart and putting it back together again has either removed the problem, or you've not hit the precise combination of gear/gradient/effort that triggered it last time.

I'd spend some time going through the gears on the stand, seeing if there's any particular shift that isn't quite like the others - noisier, or slower, something of that nature, then trying to work out why.

Or, YOLO and send it, of course.

Just chucked it in the stand and its fucked again. It can now make it up to 5 though?

further suggestions welcome... @hippy

impressive

There's a different di2 plug that can be installed in individual parts for error checking but if that's working off the bike it's most likely wrong installation. Download the Shimano manual and follow the instructions it by the letter, it's usually pretty good.

I'm just going to have to take it to a bike shop aren't i

Not unless it's actually acting up and need to be warrantied. It's really simple to install and most reputable shops will be fully booked for weeks.
What mode it's in? What happens if you try synchro shift?

If you take the wheel out and shift what does it do?

@swedeee is it a fairlight? Do you have the special adaptor they designed for the Di2 setup?

I had a similar ish issue when I switched from my Strael 2 to another frame. Fairlight swap out the link between the hanger and the mech body to make it line up better. With it installed, I couldn’t set my mech up to cover the full gear range. They gave me an original shimano one and all was good.

Also, try taking it off the bike and see if it shifts up/down 10 steps.

shifts fine without a wheel in it. odd that the di2 derailleur sort of "hangs" vs a normal mech which springs back on itself. is that normal?

OK so it must be something to do with the b screw. back it off completely and it shifts super smoothly on the smallest 5. it can go up to the largest (34t) but really struggles because the jockey wheel catches on the cassette.... there seems to be a happy medium where it all works ok but shifting isn't super smooth. clearly needs more tinkering - had no idea b screw had such an impact

yes it is a fairlight. strael v3.... and it was assembled by them so assume it should work?

Call them, that’s the easiest!

Separately, I removed and took mine apart to clean it. I put the mech back on and somehow over tightened the attaching bolt so it was holding the mech in a funny angle, overriding the b-screw. It was acting all funny until I loosened all the screws and made sure the b-screw was resting and engaging correctly.

B-screw and chain length needs to both be bang on or (in my experience anyway) shifting performance will be buggered.

Get the dealer manual for the group up from Shimano.com and run through the chain length process and the correct b-screw setup.

I think this is it.

makes sense - much appreciated

love this bloody forum

The flappy hang is normal.

The photos make the part cjr is talking about look stock but I don't have mine here to compare so I'm going by memory. Bike makers fucking around with stock RD parts would be another explanation for it not working though - if they've installed the wrong mount. Maybe it needs their part? I'd definitely find out if the builders installed the wrong bits and I'd definitely shy away from bikes that need not only a custom hanger but other custom linkages too? That's dumb.

But it sounds like you've adjusted the B-screw and it's ok. Maybe it was installed piss the first time and then wasn't clearing the cassette after that due to B-screw?

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Customs, VAT and handling charge invoice received- £158.

for the AXS stuff?

Yep