Any question answered...

It's possible to develop a browser plugin to filter search results further, but since the results don't have the ending coordinates the plugin would then have to visit every item in the background and look for the ending coords (to decide which result to keep)... Scraping the results would be problematic in more than one way, you'd get rate limited and it may take quite bit of time depending on the number of initial results. There's pagination on the results page so you'd have to account for that as well. It can be done, but would be fairly involved.

Ok yep that does sound pretty tricky! You sound like just the person for the job - what's your fee? 😁

Cheers that's super helpful.

My Dawes CX from the 90s has really narrow canti bosses / studs on the fork and its such a fucker.

@Pifko thanks, that's useful.

frames/components

Cervelo or Parlee teamed with a 2nd tier groupset* from whichever manufacturer they think looks best.

These convos are pointless. Just get them to buy what makes them feel good. But do try your best to sell them on decent tyres and clipless pedals.

*you want to give them the opportunity to explain to people that they have the means to buy a first tier GS but have the financial sense not too.

My advice so far has been, don't even get started but they are keen to give it a go

If you want to do them a favour, steer them towards Giant/Trek/Specialized with 105. It's 99.9% of the performance of the golf club bikes for council pitch and putt money.

Thanks @hugo7 & @gbj_tester, they have literally asked me for a good starting point and I will leave the rest to them. I can pass on that kind of info and hopefully if they give up riding in 12 months I'll get a nice new road bike!

Can someone remind me why shimano 7 speed is a hassle?

Is it just that 8-10 speed hub cassettes are mix'n match, whereas 7 speed is hyperglide and can only use those cassettes, thus limiting options?

Thanks.

Can someone remind me why shimano 7 speed is a hassle?

They could only do that if it was. You're rather unlikely to come across UniGlide (used for 6-speed and early 7-speed) unless you deliberately go looking for it. Nearly everything 7-speed you come across will be HyperGlide. You need a spacer to use 7-speed HG cassettes on 8-11 speed HG freehubs, but then you need a spacer on half the 10-speed cassettes too and very few people died.

Cheers. Sounds like I was misremembering. Or maybe it's because I picked up a cheap pair of UniGlide DA hubs without knowing how limiting it was.

Wahhhhh!

Any idea what the hell caused this? The surface still feels smooth.

Is there anything i can do to fix this, bar repainting the entire bike?

Are UniGlides the ones that the bottom/smallest cog acts the lock-ring and you need 2 chain whips to get them off? Trying to source sprockets myself, knowing the name helps

Lock on toptube? Sliding along railing?

Is there anything i can do to fix this, bar repainting the entire bike?

Live with it, paint's gonna scratch

My commiserations though. What biek?

Comfirmed, cheers. All notches are the same size. UG it is

What UG bits are you looking for? I have an unused UG/HG compatible freehub body (the very rare one in the middle) and a barely used 15T locking cog. Keep meaning to put them on eBay but obvs anyone on here gets first dibs.

My very expensive one 😢

Might toothpaste and a rag be helpful in this case?

Actually I was wondering something similar about one of mine - is T Cut a bad idea on bike frames?!

I've used it a few times with no ill-effects. I've also found that turtle wax works well for keeping things hydrophobic. You could always test the inside of a chainstay if you're concerned.

Looks like house paint? A mildly abrasive polish like T-Cut might take it off without buggering the finish. Depends how thick the clear coat is.

This.
If it still feels smooth it suggests that your shiny finish has acquired some paint or something which is sitting on top of your lacquer.
Solvol Autosol or, as @Eseman suggests - toothpaste (which is gentler than Solvol) - should shift it and leave your bike unblemished.
Realize that I should've @'d @Jezston.

No it's not. Just don't go bonkers with it. Especially if you have metallic/flambouyant/flake/etc paint finishes. (Although there apparently is a T-Cut for metallic finishes - I've never used it, nor am I sure how it would work)
If your frame is powder coated, don't bother. It'll be wholly ineffective.

Trying some T-Cut probably couldn't hurt

Cheers, shall give it a go, although i do have fancy flake and flip clearcoat. Might try toothpaste first just in case.

Out of interest, what is T-cut exactly? Just in case it's not a brand available here in Finland and i need to find an equivalent.