Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

take the stem off, fit the spacers and stem aa you want them then use that to mark off where you'll cut. then check again, and again. then take it apart, make sure you've got the right line, then check again, then cut. I've cut through a brand new pair of forks without checking enough and rendered them trash. It's an expensive mistake so don't guess anything.

Thanks - that sounds very sensible.

In case you haven't thought of it and you want to ride it straight away, just check you have whatever you need to replace that conical spacer - i.e. is it simply a spacer or is it a headset bearing cover? Not always super easy to find something that's the right fit if the latter.

Have you thought about running the spacers on top of the stem for a few rides to check the fit before cutting? In case you’re unsure....

Yes there is a low stack headset cover thanks.

My problem now is that I can’t get the expander bung out. It looks like it unscrews with a torx bit and I haven’t got one long enough.

I’ve also got loads of extra hose to deal with because I switched to narrower bars. And there are some stupid ugly hose connectors on too.

In short, I think it’ll be off to the bike shop this week.

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If I wanted to temporarily convert this bike to SS, could I simply:

• Remove derailleurs, shifters etc
  
• Replace 7 of the 8 sprockets with spacers
  
• Shorten chain
  
• Cycle on my merry way?
  
  

I like the red rims too much to use different wheels, which I'm sure would be the cleaner solution. For a SS conversion is it kosher to use QR skewers in horizontal dropouts or do I need a track axle and track nuts?

Buy a dedicated ss cog. The cogs in your cassette will have shifting ramps and shaped teeth that makes getting the chain off the cog much easier. Not really what you want.

If your free hub body is aluminium then get a ss cog with a wide base so it doesn’t dig in.

Qr skewer should work, it holds your wheel in place just now doesn’t it? If your current one is of the open cam design I’d recommend you replace it with a decent Shimano one.

Surly singulator

With the amount of adjustment available in those dropouts, it's unlikely a chain tensioner is needed.

@Ndeipi - http://www.velosolo.co.uk have everything you need, and I'd second @M_V 's recommendation of getting a specific ss cog.

@M_V, @dancing james and @andyp thanks for your advice. I'll get a VeloSolo spacer kit.

My one remaining stumbling block is the 8 speed Athena rear hub. My freehub pattern is either original Camagnolo 8 speed (left) or Exa-Drive Campagnolo 8 Speed (right).

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VeloSolo don't list a Campagnolo cog. Other suppliers seem to have 9/10 speed cogs but not 8 speed.

If I'm anal about chain tension will I get away with using a cassette sprocket? I could always while away an hour filing down any ramps. Can't do so much about the shaped teeth though.

If it’s only temporary and for minimum work just remove the derailleur, shorten the chain and keep the cassette on. If the chain tension is right and in line it would be fine to use and easy to put back to geared when you need to.

Using a whole cassette is a good shout. Maybe the next step up would be to use just use three of the cassette sprockets. Chain would sit on the middle one and be blocked on both sides.

I'm thinking that a more permanent alternative might be to find a NOS red Mavic Open Pro rim and build a dedicated SS rear wheel. The more I think about this the more I like the idea of having a SS permanently.

Just don't change gear when you want it to be singlespeed.

I've got a bit of a catch 22 with carbon forks on 2 bikes. I can't drop the stem below the bung to find the ideal height, because it'll crush the steerer. I can't cut the steerer to drop the bung because I don't know how low is too low.

How do? Shave off 5mm at a time? Don't say slam the stem or get a bike fit

Anyone know what's an easy route to removing a brass rivet for an old-school headbadge getting to the shaft sticking though down the headtube? If possible I'd like to re-use it, the shaft looks pretty straight not very smooshed. Tiny tiny hammer and small elves?

There's longer bungs. However I have ridden before with it below the bung just to get the fit or getting it to work and chop and didn't died. Tighten just enough it's not moving, don't send it or do stupid stuff, do it at your own risk.

Picture of the frame hole:

Similar sized one on the Downtube.
Maybe it’s approx the right size for a di2 grommet?

Frame is di2 only.
Which is fun, because of internal di2 routing, but external brake cable.

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Do they not make specific ones for the frame, or at least ship standardish ones? Bit of measuring and googling should find something, or sugru.

I've looked at specifics, but finding a specific set for a Scott Addict RC 2011 isn't so straight forward!

I had to look for a current colnago thing the other day, and that was for an actual cable stop the bike couldn't work without, no luck at all there.

Over time the thread for this bolt has died on my FD - anyone had any success with having a derailleur thread refaced?

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Rechased? You'll have better luck with a longer bolt and nut on the back with those assuming it doesn't foul anything. You may be able to find a helicoil to repair it but I've never looked. Can't do that with the newer design which was an expensive mistake for a recent customer, even more expensive if he wants to swap back to ultegra when it's back in stock.

Looks like the oval shimano di2 grommet thing fits, so now need to find a blank version.
https://www.condorcycles.com/products/condor-oval-di2-frame-plug-for-downtube

Something maybe?

As @snottyotter says, bolt it up.

If the RD looks like this in 50x30, would I be living dangerously by putting on a 52 front without changing the chain?

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