Dynamo Lights

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  • Was even considering slotted cablestops or pump pips, just wind the cable fully around each one to grip it before continuing.

  • Are these at the top right gonna be too baggy?

  • Unless the wire is pulled tight, it's going to sag or be loose between whatever bosses you put on no?

    I just drilled a hole in my downtube and brazed a stainless washer around the hole for reinforcement and it's been solid for a year

  • Pulled tightly, yes that's prescicely what I'm envisaging. Maybe a small threaded boss, and a washer that's wider, wind the cable round, apply a little torque to grip.

    There's absolutely no way these can be internal. The framebuilder hates it. And the tubes are tiny thin ones, like stays. It's a spaceframe so to speak.

  • Fitz cyclez often uses external braze ons for dynamo routing. Most often just on the fork though.

    http://www.fitzcyclez.com/more-fun.html

  • Hey that's a great pic, thanks. Will see if I can get a few of these.

  • I'm sure I've seen guides that look like Art. 102 above, but with a bar across the top; you can then put a small cable tie around the wire and secure it to the braze-on. I guess the SON coax cable is thick enough to mostly stay put in something like the top right one?

  • I have one of them [art. 303] under the bottom bracket for exactly that purpose. This hose holder thing might work well too, perhaps with a small cable tie rather than the plastic bit: https://framebuildersupply.com/collections/braze-ons/products/housing-guides-with-clips-2-10-packs

  • I think that ART 151 looks good for dynamo cables. ID of 3.1mm would pair up well with the 3mm SON coaxial cable.

  • Yep, those look like it! On closer inspection of Skülly's image above, there's actually one on there - Art. 200 Cable Tie Guide.

  • All interesting thoughts. I want to avoid using any cableties, I hate them. Also the closed rings aren't my bag since I'd like to be able to add a little tension to the cable, then secure. I think tiny threaded bosses (or simply a nut brazed on) with either a washer (and loop the cable around once before tightening) or some very small PClips off the side of the boss is my favourite solution. That will keep the cable very close to the tube, if the Pclip is mounted flat side up, so the cable is alongside the boss against the tube.

  • A few options:

    1) The housing guides but instead of a zip tie use some clear fishing line wrapped a few times around cable tight and then a drop of clear superglue to hold it together.

    2) The ART 151 should be small enough ID to give friction for the 3mm SON cable to allow some tension. If not a wee bit of head shring over the section passing through them could work.

  • Thanks, nice ideas...

  • Looking carefully, the 151 brazeon is 3.8mm ID so maybe a little loose, notwithstanding added layers of Head Shring (today's fave autocorrect) obvs possible.

    I think tiny stainless Pclips 3mm, pref without rubber liners.

  • I will still enuire about grippers like the top right one, maybe there's a smaller dia version out there (those are for hydro hoses which are 5mm I think).

  • Hot melt glue?
    Its what I do with rear's on bikes with rear mudguard mounted lights (and no rack), clean the hell out of it, find an edge that the cable will sit against, melt some glue onto it, tension, add some glue, repeat every 5-10cm. This is on the underside BTW! have done one on the top before, and am strongly considering it for mounting my own lights, zip tieing to gear/disc hoses never stays neat for any amount of time, always twists around and goes baggy in some places and short cuts the outer cable in others*

    *where possible, have used heatshrink over the outer cable/disc hose, install dyno cables, then very lightly shrink it, looks super neat/factory for years, but does eventually split and decay from UV I guess.

  • I'm going with five little little bosses at each end of blades/tubes to grip cables with 3mm Pclips. Should be fine.

  • I find glue (or in my case Sugru) is a PITA when you have to change stuff around, and you're left with residues and you have to re-do.

  • Xylene or MEK kills hot melt glue, just drops off when comes in contact with it.

  • Good to know, thanks.

  • Have found some 3mm rubber grommets to hold cables where I’m routing through mudguards which should be nice. This is going to be my neatest ever cabling!

  • Fairlight use a nice miniature P clip to secure their dynamo cables. Looks very neat and seems pretty close to what you're describing. Maybe look at somewhere like RS components and see if they have anything for cable management?

  • Ooh good to know, thanks. Have some 3mm pclips coming in the post but I can always switch them ... which is kind of the point. I’m also considering a silver cup washer, with notches cut on opposite sides to let cable thru, rubber washer insde the cup, to squash against the cable. Could be a tasty solution.

  • anyone looking to get rid of a son edelux front light.
    I'm in the market for one.

  • I've got a spare black Edelux II going spare with enough cable spare to easily run from crown to hub down the fork leg.

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Dynamo Lights

Posted by Avatar for hugo7 @hugo7

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