Dynamo Lights

I've moved my Supernova rear light onto the seat tube itself as my saddle pack is a bit close if it's on the seatpost. The Supernova rubber band is too hard to stretch around for my puny hands and a garmin one seems flimsy. Any other rubber attachment I could use instead?

Seatpost mount supernova e3 looks like attached.
Has a 3.5mm threaded hole drilled in its arm in same plane as the light is orientated. So yes could mount to a seatpost binder bolt (with threaded nut reducing thingy) or a rack or mudguard hole and it would be the right way up.

You could also open unit and remove the arm as ita just bolted on from inside, again an m3.5 fine thread on it.

Super impressed with the supernova e3 fit abd and finish, yeah it's rrp £45 but have spent more then that on battery lights that have died after 3 months commuting.
Packaging a bit overkill though

Had not realised the seatpost and rack mounted e3 have different arrangement of their narrow and wide led.
Rack mounted = narrow led is in the centre.
Seatpost mounted = narrow led is at the top

Edit. I know how to fit dyno lights, do it fairly often for customers, but got to put it out there. Supernova instructions are the best I've ever seen. Literally everything is in there in clear wording and in diagrams. When pubs are open i will buy the supernova folks some beer, good work!

Also they include 3 decent crimp butt connectors incase you wreck 1,nice. Heatshrink included is also of high quality

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Does the Supernova rear light work with a non-Supernova front? I thought it was DC only and had no standlight?

thanks, 19mm would be good for me. I was planning on getting a hub and building a wheel but £30 for the whole thing seems like a good deal.

If Laurence isn't interested I might be. How much would you be looking for it?

Ta

Made this at the weekend for my Supernova rear. Allows the light to be at the right angle and the right height to be just above the highest point of the back wheel. It took three goes to get the length of the the arms correct.
It's made from an SKS mudguard stay and that stuff is much harder to bend to a tight curve than expected but it's now pretty bomproof I think.

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Neat

6vdc yeah, standlight it says it has built in, 2 min worth?
My front light suppliers stand light power to both though b+m.
You just can't hook it straight to the dyno

6vdc yeah, standlight it says it has built in, 2 min worth?

My front light suppliers stand light power to both though b+m.
You just can't hook it straight to the dyno

Let us know how you get on. The general consensus here was that the Supernova rears didn't have a capacitor and the front light provided power for standlight function. Whereas B&M lights don't provide standlight power but the typical AC rear lights had a capacitor.

Love this! Been musing on making a couple of mounty things for things, and the sturdy mudguard stay wire I have loads of hanging about suddenly struck me as a really useful material.

I can guess the brake bolt end is presumably the pre-looped section of the wire, did you make tight curls at the other end to bolt the light through? If so, how the hell did you bend it? Can you show us a photo from the back?

Thanks for this. Sadly not shipping to UK at the moment cause Brexit

( https://framebuildersupply.com/collections/light-brackets/products/supernova-e3-schmidt-son-tail-light-bracket-seat-stay-mount-black-and-silver )

Will find out if the blurb is correct later in week when I get around to sorting my own bikes out. Bloody customers wanting their bikes fixed.

Afaik cheaper b+m front lights don't have the cap in them, instead dumping ac to the rear light, which then takes thr ac, pumps through a capacitor and then feeds its own led. Have a cyo n + (i think) which has a cap in the front light and dumps out 6vdc to rear light. In my case the e3 v2 apparently has a 2 min standlight also. Maybe they will play nice together, maybe they won't!

Does anyone know if I'm imaging things that the IQ-X front light LED/parabola/lens park can be swivelled so you can mount the light upside down? If I'm not, how is it done?

The band that goes around the light can be swivelled so that the mount is on the top or bottom, the light itself always stays upright

you just need to pry it apart a bit and it should come off the light

Ah OK so I'll need to get the brackety thing loosened as the band seems to be to torqued there. Ta.

Yeah just take the light off the bracket because that bolts through the band

Then this part can open up and come off the light. Twist it around to mount at the top instead and Bob's your uncle

Thanks for your help.

Didn't take pictures at the time, but see re-enactment.
Firmly secure 2 Allen keys, put the preformed mount of stay over one, and then form the new loop around the other one, easy
Er no, the rod is pretty stiff so you have to push really hard to bend tightly, risking impaling on either Allen key or end of stay when you slip. I chose the sharp strut end , and have a good cut hand now. Second time use mole grips!.
Form the second side. The distance between Allen keys sets the bracket size. Only cut off the extra strut length after making the loops ,you need the leverage. Fiddle around with moles for a while to get each loop flatish and at the right angle for the brake mount

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You cant really see from the back as the stays are in the way, but side view

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have i missed something, does anyone understand why B&M ship their front and rear lights with male spades on the rear connector wires for both, but the connecting wire they provide with the front light only has one pair of female spades on (other end bare)? I understand the length will be variable, but could they not include one set of spades to attach once cut...

related, anyone know of a london bike shop that stocks the 0.5 x 2.8 mm spades? was hoping to ride my New Bike tomorrow but it won't be emotionally satisfying if the wiring is still unfinished. Otherwise would be happy to trade for a beer with someone on my commute home this evening from NW1 to SE8 if anyone has some knocking around.

Great, cheers. Just checking how the bolts / wire are interfacing.

Bit confused about the wire/spades they’re currently providing too. Rear light supplied by Bikester with a tiny bit of wire, front light has two male outs, very short. Meh.

Might be worth checking general electrical shops too?

SJS sell the spade connectors, not much help for tomorrow though

yes, you're on, good idea

I have a question for all regarding wiring:
Has anyone seen a non-internal routing fixture added to bikes that seems neat? I'm thinking about adding short m3 bolt thread bosses to a frame, then using mini p-clips to grip cables from junction areas tightly along tubes. Or grippy things? Having some brazing done to a frame, thought I'd try to address it with something to keep cabling super neat, so I can use minimal tape or sugru guides.