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• #1752
is there any scope to move the bars further forward a bit?
More about getting enough setback relative to the BB. Handlebars just have to end up where they can be. I also sit pretty far back in the saddle so the stoker bars can't be too far forward anyway.
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• #1753
it was moving left to right a bit even with the binder bolt done up pretty tight
As pretty, and correctly positioned as it is βΒ you've made a bigly long bum lever ... maybe needs a grub screw or weld a nubbin to sit in the binder slot to stop rotation otherwise you're going to have to put forces through the binder that it wasn't designed for.
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• #1754
Probably another vote in favour of bracing to the rack mounts.
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• #1755
Think there are ways to style it out ...
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• #1756
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Saddle-Seats-suspension-Black-for-Road-Cross-Bike/124504365935
maybe one of these would work? mount it towards the front on the bottom rails, and seat at the back on the top rails? should add a couple of inches of rail adjustment, but might still end up bending in half? -
• #1757
Easy fix for that
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• #1758
I agree. Whenever I buy new ones I'll always go fro 5/6 mm set. As far as I know there isn't a tool that fits the flat head type
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• #1759
Gear index stand mid ride, perfect height
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• #1760
Not sure if this is the correct place to ask this but it's a bit of a bodge in my eyes.
I just got a new 105 5800 chainring, where the bolts screw directly into the chainring itself. Somehow, I've managed to use 3 normal length chainring bolts and one shorter single ring bolt, the single ring bolt pulled the threads out as I tightened it.
Instead of throwing a brand new chainring in the bin, I think I may get away with using a longer chainring bolt as there's still a bit of thread left in there and there seems to be a bit of extra depth there too.
Question is, where can I get longer chainring bolts? Or any m8 bolt with the correct pitch?
Or, am I wasting my time and admit to myself I just ruined a perfectly good, brand new bike part.......again -
• #1761
Iβd use the normal bolt with some strong loctite.
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• #1762
The normal bolt won't catch the thread anymore unfortunately, if I screw the normal bolt into the ring on its own (no inner ring or cranks, just the other ring itself) then there is enough thread for the bolt to go all the way in.
I'm hoping, a longer bolt would do the job, if I can find one -
• #1763
Found some extra long bolts for sale on bikemonger....fingers crossed
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• #1764
I knackered the threads also on a 5800 and fixed it the same way. The threads on it were way way way deeper than the factory bolts need, so should be fine.
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• #1765
That's good to know, cheers. Feeling a bit more hopeful now
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• #1766
There is, but they are all useless when you come up against a fairly stuck one.
Park, unior, shimano /pro, t
something and a bunch of others, none really work, not the tool makers fault, but the bolt design is just something that should be left in the last lol.Have good success with an air impact on lowest setting and a high quality allen bit. Spin very fast very torque, usually spins them free
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• #1767
Yeah Iβve had a couple of those tools. Park Tool one is maybe the best one for me if the head is round the right way, but itβs a bit crap at the very best.
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• #1768
16mm bolts where a bit too long. Hacksawed the top off and it seems to have done the job (left bolt standard, middle chopped, right full length 16mm)
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• #1769
Welded this wee doohickey to eek out a little more clearance on my rear βguard.
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• #1770
I bought a smart^W stupid doorbell and ended up making a mini consumer unit thing to hold the transformers and a relayβminimum viable doorbell alpha release is ready for production though. I really really like those WAGO connectors.
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• #1771
Wish I'd seen those connectors before doing loads of wiring stuff around the house - look well more convenient!
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• #1772
Looks very interesting but I have no idea what you have done there. Can you explain in layman's language?
Is it still a doorbell?
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• #1773
Wago connectors changed my life. Great little invention, expensive though compared to connector blocks.
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• #1774
this sounds like a much safer approach