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• #6952
From eBay....
Anybody know why i'm only stopping at half the speed of my friends?
1 Attachment
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• #6953
What's the best way to push pistons back in before fitting new pads?
TRP HYRD calliper with Shimano pads, I've done this several times before with a combination of a tyre lever and flat head but this time around just can't seem to reset the pistons sufficiently. Absolutely no gap for the between the pads is best I can do so far.
Thanks!
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• #6954
Lube around the pistons to loosen them up with mineral oil. A hairdryer on the back of the units may help.
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• #6955
Not all adapters are created equal
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• #6956
Or used with the correct rotor size or fitted the correct way up. I think that one is upsidedown.
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• #6957
This...
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• #6958
Lube the pistons as mentioned, stick one old pad in, find a thin knife/long screwdriver bit and insert all the way through the caliper so you can push against the pad from both ends to give it some welly.
Flip the old pad and repeat for the other side.
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• #6959
Will get hold of some mineral oil and try again.
I can push one in no problem, causing the other one to come out further. Then have no way of keeping the first in place whilst fighting the other one back in.
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• #6960
What tool do you use?
2 tyre levers for the novice, use one to hold one of them and use the spare to push the other in.
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• #6961
Try slacking off the cable and ensuring the master cylinder is all the way out. There's a valve that needs to open to allow fluid to return to the reservoir. When it's open that path should have lower resistance than pushing out the other piston.
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• #6962
Releasing the cable and master cylinder was an immediate game changer.
Thanks all.
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• #6963
Has anyone got a spare pair of rotor lockrings? For QR/12mm
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• #6964
@snottyotter can I just use any bolt for this? Like ones that come with SKS guards (stainless I think)
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• #6965
Yeah, as long as it's the right length, you won't be able to use the pointless and over cautious pin things to stop them falling out though.
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• #6966
A bit of blue threadlock should stop them dropping out.
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• #6967
one day I will kiss you on the mouth
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• #6968
Again?
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• #6969
Any recommendations for a tool to cut hydraulic hoste and insert a new barb? The Shimano tool is £50 plus but does the lot. Less than £30 for the two lifeline tools required but looks like a square cut may be a bit more hit and miss.
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• #6970
I have bodged mine in the past using a decent (sharp) pair of cable cutters that i already have in the toolbox for the errr...cutting bit and the yellow blocks that come with new hose for inserting the barb.
They still work and don't leak
YMMV
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• #6971
I don't use any specific tool at work and I do it quite often. Good snips will cut it but if your snips aren't good then a sharp Stanley blade is clean. Open up the end of the hose with something sharp and pointy, mole grips round the yellow blocks that are supplied with the brakes and twat the barb in with whatever is most hammer like nearby.
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• #6973
Vice. Those yellow blocks. New Stanley knife blade. Works fine for me.
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• #6974
Thanks all.
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• #6975
This is my go to https://microcosm.app/out/p8uai
Tighten the 3mm at the hose holder slightly to get enough bite.
My only tool and no regrets.
Nuff said...