Any question answered...

If the bolt is a little short you can get nuts that extend deeper into the fork.

Less flex hence better braking performance, do check occasionally to make sure it didn't come loose.

If the bolt is a little short you can get nuts that extend deeper

Or just a longer bolt, since it's nothing special.

Is there are kind of problem solver thing that will turn one cable stop into two?

Well done for reminding me to ask this question - I'd like to move to a lower hanger, but short of drilling a hole in the fork crown (which I don't want to do) I'm stumped. Is there maybe a headset that has a hanger?

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Where is the best place to pick up a few bolts. m6 and m3 I think.

853 ( or 531 ) millennium?

Donohue built bikes for weigh out of both of those I believe

Clerkenwell screws

Is there maybe a headset that has a hanger?

Not on the bottom half, if that's what you're thinking.

Last time I had cantilevers, I had some bridges made with cable stops on them, think brake booster but taller. 5mm thick carbon fibre from the usual source. Worked great, but expensive by the time I'd had all the custom fittings machined.

Pretty sure the best solution for you is to stop being precious and get the drill out

Issue with that is the "find me another Serotta steel CX fork" problem.

That's why I said stop being precious. Drill the one you have.

Clerkenwell

May not be local for @inkleined 🙂

That's why I said stop being precious. Drill the one you have.

If I go that route I'll have a copy made with a hole in it, but that's a huge faff (even for me), so I'd prefer to avoid it.

Are stems with an integral cable hanger still a thing?

Are stems with an integral cable hanger still a thing?

I don't know of any current product, and they are mechanically even worse than what you already have. The two things might well be connected 🙂

I've currently got a (Tektro?) hanger that means I can't drop the stem any lower than it currently is, which is way too high, and it still interferes with the route that the cable takes into the hanger to, I suspect, the detriment of the braking.

You can get steel ones, not sure if they'd fit but they'd be thinner.

Mechanically worse how? Stems are usually stiffer than the hangers, aren't they? (I mean, drilled stems always worry me slightly, but with proper detail design they needn't be more of a death trap than any other given stem...)

I might get a steel ahead stem made with a hanger.

Could you adapt the existing hanger with one of these?

https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/surly-stainless-steel-rear-hanger-with-adjuster-1528-p.asp

I suspect it would look quite ugly.

Drilling the existing forks wouldn't be puppy killing IMHO...

I'd like something that looks like this, but with an integral hanger:

What's the BMX thing people used to use for polo dual brake set ups before Paul levers, maybe oddyssy?

Odyssey London Mod

I think you had to replace the middle screw, can’t remember exactly though

https://www.sourcebmx.com/products/odyssey-london-mod?loc=gb&lang=en&currency=gbp

Stems are usually stiffer than the hangers, aren't they?

But they are also bring more of the steerer into the load path. It's the stiffness of the whole system that matters, specifically the deflection under a given load which closes the gap from the cable stop to the straddle wire connection. Most of the relevant deflection is bend in the steerer, which is why putting the stop on the fork crown and taking the steerer out of the equation is so effective.

When hangers like the one on Dammits bike flex, most of the movement is actually orthogonal to the cable. Even though it looks like they're bending a lot, the amount by which the distance from cable stop to straddle shortens is very small.

Ok, that makes sense; I'd guessed steerer deflection might come into it, but had discounted it, as the steerer diameter is so much larger than the bit of the hanger that bends.