Any question answered...

Ha, does sound fun but not sure that would be essential travel, plus I'd bill you for the transport.

Beers only no? ;)

Mavic lockrings are 33mm x 24tpi, Phil Wood are 33.5 x 24tpi. Is that enough of a difference to make Mavic specific lockrings the only option?

Actually, if I charge him for beer while he's working I'll make my money back...

Anyone got any leads on a tandem that I could rent/borrow for about 6 hours on Sunday?

Mavic lockrings are 33mm x 26tpi, Phil Wood are 33.5 x 36tpi

Neither of these statements is true.
Mavic M33×1.0 is 1.30"×25.4TPI
Phil/Campag 1.32"×24TPI
There's more than enough difference in both diameter and pitch to make swapping either way impossible. The ISO 1.29"×24TPI is closer to Mavic than Phil is, but still not compatible.

Would need to pick up from Edinburgh though.

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Neither of these statements is true.
Mavic M33×1.0 is 1.30"×25.4TPI
Phil/Campag 1.32"×24TPI
There's more than enough difference in both diameter and pitch to make swapping either way impossible. The ISO 1.29"×24TPI is closer to Mavic than Phil is, but still not compatible.

Yeah those are supposed to both be 24tpi, lack of proof reading and fat farmers fingers.

1.32” = 33.5mm, no? Mavic being 25.4tpi makes more sense why they’d be incompatible.

1.32” = 33.5mm

That part was true 🙂

The difference between 33 and 33.5 is about three to four times the tolerance band on threads of that pitch, so even if they were of the same pitch, the smallest permitted 33.5mm lockring¹ would still be too lose on the largest permitted 33mm hub thread².

1. 32.850mm min pitch diameter
   
2. 32.324mm max pitch diameter
   

Unfortunately we're kind of in the hinterland when it comes to most things so there's a dearth of saddlewise options that could even be considered for secondhand. He's currently trying to break in a green Brooks B17 that he got cheap from CR. Having trouble getting comfortable on it which is odd because he previously had a B17 Special that I gave to him which he loved until trashing it while out on a ride.

Ah, mine would be free although is currently being stored at a friends house... social distancing will make it hard to get hold of with short notice.

Iirc it also needs some repairs. Let me know if you need it again in future!

Haha!

Brought the bike round to mine to yesterday to show it off, cheers for sorting it out for her. she’s chuffed with it :)

Why does snow look more dense IRL then thru a lens or a photograph? It’s snowing right now, but every picture I take of it looks denser with the naked eye.

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Binocular vision ?
-maybe someone on https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/164646/?offset=19275 might know better?

Late to the party but if you've a drill and a steady hand you could widen the countersunk bit in a few seconds.

You’re going to want fast shutter speeds (it’s a thing in video too) and since it tends to be fairly low contrast and often darker because of the cloud cover, most cameras are going to slow things down to get more light in.
So if you have control over settings on whatever you’re filming on, try higher ISO, faster shutter speeds and potentially a higher frame rate would help to but less sure on that one (I just do stills)

you could widen the countersunk

It's a counterbore, so he'd need a counterbore bit or an end mill. The starting face is oblique to the axis, so he'd need to hold it in a vice on the mill table and bugger about with gauge pins to align the bore with the spindle axis, as there's no obvious face orthogonal to or parallel with the bore which is big enough to indicate reliably. None of this is impossible, it's just pointless when a new one is only £12

You’re going to want fast shutter speeds

I was going to go in the opposite direction. The eye has a shutter speed of the order of 1/10th of a second, and flakes fall at 1-2m.s^-1, so they appear to the eye as streaks 10-20cm long rather than points as they would in a still image at a typical shutter speed for outdoors in daylight. I think I'd try stopping down to the smallest available aperture to get loads of DOF and a long exposure and see how that looks.

The longer the streaks the fainter and “smudgier” though. You may be right however. I think a higher frame rate would bring some results. Rather than some flakes appearing in only one or two frames until they’re out of shot, they’ll be in more frames whilst in shot. Might make it look denser although less smooth as you’d expect with high frame rates

Glad to hear that!

Hi excuse my poor terminology here quite new to single speed. Have had halo clickster on for a number of weeks. Done at least 1000 miles of riding. Yesterday the freewheel did not engage or lock on and cranking the cranks just spun. After hand turning the wheel and back pedalling cranks it engaged after a minute or so. Then midway through a ride it happened again. Again pedalled back and forth and it engaged again so could pedal forward. I have kept the halo lined with decent oil. Any ideas?

It's knackered and you need to replace it. It will only get worse.

Not so good after it's so new

decent oil

What oil out of interest?