Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I had a pair of TRP HY/RD callipers which were actually pretty good all things considered. Only big negative IMO is that the callipers are massive and ugly looking.

Any reason you went for them over the regular R/F1s?

More power, Scotty. Will use them for a bit of touring so wanted max stopping ability.

I'm selling a pair of TRP Spyre callipers if anyone is after some.
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/344059/#comment15123492

So I have an etap hydro travel bike (Richey system, not s&s) and just have extra hose and deal with it being connected - but how easy is using a connect-a-majig if I was to retrofit one now?

I had difficulty getting the right SRAM hoses anyway but if I can get the hoses to break that would make packing down way easier

Fitting new road 105 callipers today, front went on fine and did a bleed. Back one pi$$ing oil from piston when trying to bleed

On inspection one piston looks ever so slightly out of alignment so this might be the cause? I used bleed block insert. Could it be dodgy seal from new? Warranty claim or do they do seal kits? Faff. Build interrupted and much cursing ensued

Warranty claim.

Sigh. Ok, hopefully they will do an exchange with the minimum of fuss

Using one is super easy, you just need two tiny spanners to undo it. I don't think you can retro fit one into an existing hose as they are crimped on, you'll have to get a whole new hose. Also check your cable routing to work out if you'll need an 'inline' which goes up by the bars, or one that attaches directly to the caliper. The connectamajig won't fit through internal routing holes.

Just mounted new disc rotors (Shimano ice-tech) onto new superstar hubs. When mounting on the bike the disc rub on the inside brake pad on both front and rear. Bearing in mind I can swap other wheels in and out of this frame without issue what are the options on these? Is it simply a thin washer between hub and rotor?

Spread pads out first?

Yes shims.

found a solution, in case anyone else is looking I've ordered these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Disc-Brake-Ro­tor-Shims-0-2mm-Fibrax/283442153394?epid­=9024730372&hash=item41fe7807b2:g:tpkAAO­Swp-Fcp4P4

The above have done the trick perfectly. My ss wheels were 6-bolt and the rotors sat further inboard than on my other wheels.

@Howard @SimonE1
Thanks. I got some 0.25mm spacers and they’ve worked a treat. I needed two spacers on the rear (0.5mm) and one on the front. I had to use some copper slip to hold them in place whilst I offered up the rotor.

Thanks for the tip, they’re working a treat

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Which pads to get for Shimano road (BR-RS505) please?

Shimano L04C (finned, alloy backed)- £20
Prime (steel backed) - £10

or something else?

I find the ice tech (fins) completely unnecessary (having toured and descended some big hills), but am a big fan of sintered over organic. I’ve found better power and better longevity at the expense of occasional honking.

R7020 brand new shifter, leaking from here. Ever happened to anyone?

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Remove cap and see if it still got the o ring

If the O ring isnt there, it might have come off onto your bleed kit (definitely happened to me).

Soz Ed, wrong reply!

Thanks for the reply, but that is not the cap.
The cap is the one to the right on the R7020.
Not sure what that bolt function is.

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Are you certain that is the bleed cap? I'm struggling to find the right exploded diagram of the shifter on Google but one that I've seen suggests that the weeping one in the pic is the bleed cap and it's not clear what the one your pic points to is for...

Link would probably help

https://images.app.goo.gl/7c2NVWncgvTGWnTy6

From Glory Cycles. Look them up if you are ever in a hole 😏

I am certain.
This diagram confirms as well that the cap with the allen key is the bleed cap.
The point it is leaking from is not mentioned in any diagram I've seen, so I don't know it's function.

Theres not some overspill of something under the hood that keeps getting reapplied when the hood gets put back?