Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Okay, can see that now. So the bleed cap and washer is number 4 on the diagram and the weeping part is the non numbered bit on the forward facing part of the lever (or just to the left and downwards from 4 on the diagram).

Sorry can't help in that case

Can you provide a reference?

I inspected it becasue the lever was reaching the handlebar only 3 weeks after having fitted it and bled it. So I thought of adjusting the "free stroke". When I undid the hood cover it was oil everywhere, cleaned it and then pumped a few times. Not sure oil is supposed to leak every time you brake.

Anyway, it's coming off and going back to Merlin. Annoyingly they would not send a new one on the basis of the video I sent them, which means I bought a new one from Evans, to avoid having to wait 2w for a replacement one.

Correct. It's that little cap/nut in between 1 and 4 in the diagram, to the front of the reservoir.

If you clean it all up, under the hood on the rubber gripper bit and everywhere with IPA, then put a bit of kitchen roll in there and wait a week.

If the rolls gotten oil on it, you should be able to tell.

Sorry, I haven't been clear:
I wiped it clean, then pumped twice and a droplet of oil came out, you can see it in this video.
I tried this two/three times and the same happened. It sure leaks.

It's fucked.

Thought so.
To be expected when brand new.

Bought a MTB but pads were shot meaning pistons can't be retracted enough to fit rotor in. They move individually freely but obviously they're pushing another out as one is pressed back. Apart from a full re-bleed, is it possible to unscrew bleed post and push the pistons back with the release of (hopefully a bit of air, though the brakes are solid) just enough fluid so they don't 'push back meaning there's a gap for the rotor to fit into and the brakes are still functional?

Avid Elixir 7 Trail btw

Yeah, bleeding is better but you can open the bleed port a tiny bit and spead the pistons and push out a little fluid, I've always found elixirs and juicys prone to doing that.

Cheers - so actually don't unscrew the bleed port fully - literally a cpl turns and really squeeze just the smallest amount required to get the pistons back? Cheers

Yeah, it's not really fixing it, but it'll make it work until you do.

Unscrew it like a quarter of a turn, have a rag to hand to catch the horrible fluid, then buy shimano brakes.

Worked a dream thanks. Brakes just as solid. Many thanks

After all the Shimano hydraulic disc chat in the the current projects thread, I fancy a single front Shimano disc brake for the fixie skidder.

What's the difference between mt-200/201/400/401 and does the price difference hit a sweet spot beyond just getting the mt200?

Many thanks in advance!

Deore is where it's at, servowave so better pad clearance.

Cheers, clear!

Looking for a steel road fork with flat mount, thru axle and internal cable routing. Ideally minimal raking and no additional eyelets, however rim brake drilling would be nice (for fixing a front rack). Haven't found anything so far - am I looking at a custom job here? If anyone has any of the shelf suggestions, I'd be super thankful!

Surly midnight special fork come to mind.

You can go for Tsunami fork which is shorter than a CX/gravel fork, in chrome and post mount.

Thanks for the suggestions! Saw the Surly one, but I am looking for something with less clearance, more of a road geometry.. And the Tsunami fork (if I was looking at the right one) doesn't have a thru axle or internal cable routing.

Saw yesterday that Columbus has disc blade forks listed on their site as 'under development'. Perhaps something will come of that once they launch, as I really like their carbon disc fork.

You haven’t specify on the steerer, whether you need tapered or not.

At the moment it’s a bit early to be able to get what you want, plenty of choice for QR and post mount version at the moment.

Flat mount is a fraud, IS with post mount is where it is!

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I'm having awful disc rub on my rear wheel. I'm using a 140 rotor, Sram Etap hydro caliper/lever and quick release hub. It was fine for a bit but now whenever I'm pushing the pedals it doesn't just rub but makes an awful screeching noise. I can center the caliper so it doesn't rub when the wheels spinning but as soon as I start pedalling it screeches to hell. Any ideas what it could be? Do I maybe need to do the rotor centering but with a spacer on each side of the rotor?

Sounds like the wheels slipping?