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  • Looking at those pictures, you could happily add a backing board to add a bit of strength.
    I'd advise against a split batten/french cleat as mounting it will be a pain in the arse/nerve wracking in terms of avoiding the mirror with the screws.
    I'd go for Rymans or strap hangers into the frame at the edge, and sit the frame either on L brackets at the bottom or the wood shelf you mentioned before.

    Link for Rymans:
    https://absoluteproduct.com/ryman-hanger.html

    Let me know if you go for Rymans and I can hopefully offer some pointers - they can be a bit of a devil to use, but there's a couple of tricks to make life easier.

  • Thanks, a backing board seems like a pretty good idea. I have some hardboard the right size but I’m guessing ply would be better.
    I like the look (and price) of those Rymans hangers too.

    First job is the shelf - I’ve got a nice piece of planed sapele and some tung oil in the garage... Just need to find a decent method. Every YouTube video contradicts the rest!

  • Hardboard is totally fine. It may be advantageous as a bit of flex will help it conform to the uneven frame. The board will mostly help keep the frame square - and therefore strong.

    Rymans are definitely my go to, but they are a bit spendy if you've got a house full of pictures to hang.

  • Any recommendations for where to buy a replacement oven element (Whirlpool G2P 62F/SS/01) and is there any real difference between official and generic ones? Prices seem to range from £12 to £80. Given that I'm only likely to be here for another few months I'd prefer the cheaper end.

  • With all the kitchen chat in various channels I wanted to share my nearly complete DIY kitchen project. Taken a while but it's nearly there. The boiler cupboard was the biggest bit of work as someone had attached steel supports for the old worktop which I had to remove and then tidy up with fresh plaster board and plaster.

    Still need to paint the walls and tidy up some grouting on the tiles but it feels good to have got this far with minimal expense.

    Before (sales listing)

    After

  • Really like the idea of shelves rather than cabinets, trying to build myself up to do the same in my kitchen

  • @Colm89 cheers, I just used offcuts from the worktop and joined them above the brackets - each shelf is two shorter bits joined at the middle. I took them to a chap with a posh table top saw thing and got him to cut them - £1 a cut.

  • Repurposed a useless corner of our bedroom with a floating desk and storage bench so the wife no longer has to break her neck trying to work on her laptop while sitting on our bed.

    I've handed the finishing of the bench seat to her, so she's picked up some liberty fabric and ordered some memory foam, which should be here today.


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  • Hmm. A bit odd as they are pneumatic, is there a split or a hole in the pipe from the lever to the flush?

    What type of fill valve have you got?

  • Missus covered the storage bench with memory foam and liberty fabric just now. Not bad for a first attempt!


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  • some kind of witch craft that minimises the vibrations

    magnets

  • @Colm89 that looks very good! Are there wheels or some such on the bottom?

    You're lucky your wall looks straight. I'd be going for days trying to get something to fit that neatly in my place.

  • Have used spares 2 go and LM electrical.

  • Kitchen splashbacks. I have a choice of cheap and cheerful tiling, but the infuriating tediousness of doing it myself, or do I spank £400 on some sheet brass, stick it to some ply and glue it onto the wall in 5mins?

  • Kitchen cupboard doors: I can't find ones I like at a good price. If I get 18mm ply cut to size and fill/sand the end grain then paint and varnish the whole thing, will I prevent it warping?

  • It's possible the plywood will start warped, and even if you pick a sheet off the rack that looks perfect, when you cut it it might decide to banana then as it had built in residual stress.

    If its smaller doors would probably be aight but I'd be cautious / be prepared to accept not mm perfect alignment of edges on non hinge side if full height.

    @dbr is the expert though so he might come and tell me I'm all wrong.

  • @Spxtz Howdens have a pretty good range and all standard sizes. I can give you a trade account contact if you wanted to grab some. The Howdens at Port Dundas, Possil has the bigger range as I've done a tour of most of Glasgow's Howdens recently (you're in Glasgow from memory!?)

  • Another option to consider is real wood veneered mdf and edge band the edges. Oak, Ash, walnut are all easily obtained

  • Stainless steel? or does it have to be brass.

    Tiling takes alot of prep work.

  • Shouldn’t warp or cup, especially over a kitchen cupboard door size. BB grade ply
    shouldn’t have any voids or things that need filling, but the end grain will show through paint unless you totally cover it with filler. The grain will show through on the face if you hand paint them. I like that, may not be what you’re after though.

    Cheaper option would be MR MDF, hand painted. No chance of warp and no grain. Water based hand painted finishes aren’t the most durable though.

  • Check out the online kitchen people DIY kitchens et al. Then see who supply the doors then find a local supplier to see the doors in person?

  • @TooTallTim is this for behind a cooker or all around the kitchen worktop? I feel like brass wrapped around a kitchen could be pretty intense unless you get the height right.

    You could feasibly just have a few tiles above kitchen worktops and then a proper tile splash-back behind the cooker.

    It's all probably personal preference. However, I have seen some nice kitchen that are probably Golf Club approved with low tiling around worktops.

  • Stainless will look a bit clinical as the kitchen design is grey and white already. Brass feels like it'd add some warmth back in

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Home DIY

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