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• #20277
Brass.
In the grand scheme of things £400 isn't that much once you've bought all the tiling shit. Worst case you should be able to remove and sell it, then tile.
It would look different, although I guess it will date as it's a very "now" material.
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• #20278
That is some good style thinking.
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• #20279
Wonder if brass or brass colour....Part of me thinks that brass door kicker plate in a tiled formation would look good. Wonder if you could use architectural copper sheet, the stuff on a roll.
Personally I like the way brass slowly ages green.
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• #20280
Thanks all. I'll head up to Howdens in Possil next week and take a look... a pal of mine got her doors from Plykea and they look great, but it's crazy expensive and I can't help but think that with some patience I can get close to that myself.
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• #20281
I have called french cleats 'split battens' for years and had no idea about the correct name!
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• #20282
They’ve reverted to split-batons as of Jan 31st.
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• #20283
Cutwrights will cut any panels you want and edgeband them for a very reasonable price. I've used them many times in the past to glam up OTP kitchens and have never failed to be impressed. They will even make shaker door from a wide variety of the material the stock. They also do valchromat an environmentally friendly version of MDF that is coloured and moisture resistant; you just get it cut to size and then finish with your choice of finishing product it looks amazing.
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• #20284
Don't think it really matters. I've just always called them french cleats.
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• #20285
Yeah following the advice on here I took the strip out, cleaned it with disc brake cleaner as best I could and filled it with graphite powder. It's not perfect but good enough.
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• #20286
I don’t reckon 18mm birch would warp.
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• #20287
Varnished black valchromat is reyt sexy - almost looks like stone.
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• #20288
@Spxtz there are also these guys called Three Four Five based in Glasgow - I’ve not had any work done by them, but a good friend had loads of stuff including kitchen cabinets and doors and the finish is pretty impressive. No idea about costs though sorry...
https://instagram.com/threefourfivefurniture?igshid=10okr5q48dyhz
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• #20289
Cheers for the heads up, about cutwrights.
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• #20290
I've put a French polish on the teal coloured one it looked fucking awesome.
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• #20291
I'm not sure on the pipe - having checked it it all seems okay.
From a quick google the one I have matches a float cup fill valve.
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• #20292
When work commences to remodel the downstairs, I’m planning to hang some kind of plastic sheeting up to help reduce dust going upstairs. Is that practical? Will it fall down/be too annoying? If not, what would be the best thing to use and how to affix it?
Also, as structural work is happening, should I be informing my insurer/mortgage provider?
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• #20293
Fix battens to the walls and attach corex sheets (screws work fine, if you use screw cups / washers)
If you're planning on going up and down still, you can make a batten frame door covered in corex & chuck some hinges on.
Then tape the edges with duct tape.
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• #20294
Also, as structural work is happening, should I be informing my insurer/mortgage provider?
You should always inform your insurer if work is taking place in your home. If something goes wrong your home insurance takes priority over the liability insurance of the builder working on your house, so the claim is made on and administered by your home insurance.
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• #20295
If you’re smashing ceilings, seal off any upstairs skirting to the floor (if not carpeted). When we were messing about like this, downstairs was relatively well sealed but a surprising amount of filth made it through this way.
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• #20296
I’m making a wall mounted tv ‘bench’. It’s having a single 1100mm drop down door on flap hinges. Is there such a thing as a push click slow drop down cabinet arm? I don’t want a knob or finger recess on the door.
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• #20297
Cover the door with 2 or 3 strips of plastic sheeting, it helps to catch the dust. As well as some of the other measures. There are plastic doorways you tape onto the architrave which have a big zipper. Fussy but I've used them where I want to keep dust confined as much as possible.
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• #20298
I want to paint my cellar.
The walls are rough concrete, and they look like they want to be whitewashed but that sounds like a pain. Should I just use masonry paint?
Is painting a floor more hassle than its worth? And is floor paint worth buying if it's for the floor of a cellar?
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• #20299
I'd be cautious about using masonry paint if they've been limewashed previously. You'll trap in any moisture and it'll all peel off eventually.
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• #20300
I'm wanting to change the light switches in my house, I've done this in other places because I've just matched old to new but the new light switches I have don't have the com and L1/)L2 markings just numbers 1,2,3instead, this has thrown me and now I'm worried I'll blow up my house. Pics for ref, old light is com on top L2 bottom right. I'm assuming it's 1 and 3 in the new switch?
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Small kitchen, so probably all the way across cooker and worktops and it won't be very high. My wife is really good at tiling, and I'll be ripping out and replastering on my own, so maybe I'll leave it to her