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• #20252
Thanks, a backing board seems like a pretty good idea. I have some hardboard the right size but I’m guessing ply would be better.
I like the look (and price) of those Rymans hangers too.First job is the shelf - I’ve got a nice piece of planed sapele and some tung oil in the garage... Just need to find a decent method. Every YouTube video contradicts the rest!
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• #20253
Hardboard is totally fine. It may be advantageous as a bit of flex will help it conform to the uneven frame. The board will mostly help keep the frame square - and therefore strong.
Rymans are definitely my go to, but they are a bit spendy if you've got a house full of pictures to hang.
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• #20254
Any recommendations for where to buy a replacement oven element (Whirlpool G2P 62F/SS/01) and is there any real difference between official and generic ones? Prices seem to range from £12 to £80. Given that I'm only likely to be here for another few months I'd prefer the cheaper end.
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• #20255
With all the kitchen chat in various channels I wanted to share my nearly complete DIY kitchen project. Taken a while but it's nearly there. The boiler cupboard was the biggest bit of work as someone had attached steel supports for the old worktop which I had to remove and then tidy up with fresh plaster board and plaster.
Still need to paint the walls and tidy up some grouting on the tiles but it feels good to have got this far with minimal expense.
Before (sales listing)
After
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• #20256
Really like the idea of shelves rather than cabinets, trying to build myself up to do the same in my kitchen
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• #20258
Repurposed a useless corner of our bedroom with a floating desk and storage bench so the wife no longer has to break her neck trying to work on her laptop while sitting on our bed.
I've handed the finishing of the bench seat to her, so she's picked up some liberty fabric and ordered some memory foam, which should be here today.
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• #20259
Hmm. A bit odd as they are pneumatic, is there a split or a hole in the pipe from the lever to the flush?
What type of fill valve have you got?
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• #20260
Missus covered the storage bench with memory foam and liberty fabric just now. Not bad for a first attempt!
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• #20261
some kind of witch craft that minimises the vibrations
magnets
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• #20263
Have used spares 2 go and LM electrical.
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• #20264
Lovely kitchen
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• #20265
Bit late with this but concealed shelf supports do work. I've used them for quite a bit of weight before.
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• #20266
Kitchen splashbacks. I have a choice of cheap and cheerful tiling, but the infuriating tediousness of doing it myself, or do I spank £400 on some sheet brass, stick it to some ply and glue it onto the wall in 5mins?
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• #20267
Kitchen cupboard doors: I can't find ones I like at a good price. If I get 18mm ply cut to size and fill/sand the end grain then paint and varnish the whole thing, will I prevent it warping?
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• #20268
It's possible the plywood will start warped, and even if you pick a sheet off the rack that looks perfect, when you cut it it might decide to banana then as it had built in residual stress.
If its smaller doors would probably be aight but I'd be cautious / be prepared to accept not mm perfect alignment of edges on non hinge side if full height.
@dbr is the expert though so he might come and tell me I'm all wrong.
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• #20270
Another option to consider is real wood veneered mdf and edge band the edges. Oak, Ash, walnut are all easily obtained
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• #20271
Stainless steel? or does it have to be brass.
Tiling takes alot of prep work.
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• #20272
Shouldn’t warp or cup, especially over a kitchen cupboard door size. BB grade ply
shouldn’t have any voids or things that need filling, but the end grain will show through paint unless you totally cover it with filler. The grain will show through on the face if you hand paint them. I like that, may not be what you’re after though.Cheaper option would be MR MDF, hand painted. No chance of warp and no grain. Water based hand painted finishes aren’t the most durable though.
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• #20273
Check out the online kitchen people DIY kitchens et al. Then see who supply the doors then find a local supplier to see the doors in person?
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• #20274
@TooTallTim is this for behind a cooker or all around the kitchen worktop? I feel like brass wrapped around a kitchen could be pretty intense unless you get the height right.
You could feasibly just have a few tiles above kitchen worktops and then a proper tile splash-back behind the cooker.
It's all probably personal preference. However, I have seen some nice kitchen that are probably Golf Club approved with low tiling around worktops.
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• #20275
Stainless will look a bit clinical as the kitchen design is grey and white already. Brass feels like it'd add some warmth back in
Looking at those pictures, you could happily add a backing board to add a bit of strength.
I'd advise against a split batten/french cleat as mounting it will be a pain in the arse/nerve wracking in terms of avoiding the mirror with the screws.
I'd go for Rymans or strap hangers into the frame at the edge, and sit the frame either on L brackets at the bottom or the wood shelf you mentioned before.
Link for Rymans:
https://absoluteproduct.com/ryman-hanger.html
Let me know if you go for Rymans and I can hopefully offer some pointers - they can be a bit of a devil to use, but there's a couple of tricks to make life easier.