Rotor cranks

Hello Everyone
Does anyone know where to geto one of those stupid rotor bb tools online for cheap?
Best

as it is a weird tool that people buy to go with their cranks it is unlikely there are many spare ones floating around.

i get that but something like a knockoff..

buys specialist cranks, but won't buy the proper tools? just go and get shimano if you want simple

Anyone know what the difference is between these?

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Wheels-Manufacturing/Threaded-To-30mm-Angular-Bearing-Contact-Bottom-Bracket/EM1W

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Wheels-Manufacturing/BSA-30-Bottom-Bracket-Steel-Bearings/EQ65

One of them specifically mentions Rotor 3D cranks but they seem similar.

The first one has angular contact bearings, the second one doesn't.

Are they better/worse? I presume they're better because it's more expensive but that's not always a useful metric for being any 'good'.

Would it be more durable or efficient in any measurable way?

For applications where there is a force applied perpendicular to the direction of rotation. ie in the direction of the axle left to right.
As far as I understand it

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=133461

This suggests they should have more drag. All I really care about is durability though. Will they last longer?

"I used the highest end enduro angular contact bearings bb90 version for half a year before it stops spinning and sounds like everything has been pulverised inside. LBS warned me against them right from the start when they installed it for me, and sad to say, they are right. Have no idea why they are so highly reviewed, for my case they see just terrible given their prices."

but

"I use S71806-LLB Enduro Stainless Steel Angular Contact Bike Bearing (30x42x7) on my commuting bike. Only on my second set (25K miles). They see some abuse and are used year round. I do have a fairly good maintenance routine however I am not keen on regularly pushing the bearings out of the BB body and only pop the outside seals out to clean/regrease. They are more expensive (I think 20GBP ea) than the equivalent radial bearing, but the design allows all bearings to share the working load rather than 3 or 4. After issues with other "quality" ceramic BB's (mainly my best bike) I am happy to run with bearings that keep my bike on the road rather than in the garage awaiting parts.

I use these bearings with a Rotor 3D+ crankset and it is easy to apply sufficient preload using a combination of washers and the preload ring."

I dunno

Ask @mdcc_tester

Would it be more durable or efficient in any measurable way?

In theory at least they will be, yes, because angular bearings are better at taking non-axial loads . In practice I suspect the difference will be marginal if any, and angular bearings will need to have the preload set carefully. Setting the preload on Rotor 3D+ cranks isn't hard or difficult, but it will need to be done right or the angular contact bearings will eat themselves.

I'll go with the cheaper ones then I think. I don't need something that is unlikely to be much more reliable but more fiddly to set up which actually makes them less reliable.

Do I need to add a bottom bracket spacer if there is still some lateral play on my 3D24 cranks when the pre-tension screw is bottomed out?

It's a Shimano MT800 bottom bracket without spacers in a 68mm BSA shell.

Now I type it out it seems very obvious, but a sanity check would be nice.

I've a 5mm spacer on a 68mm shell for my 3d+ cranks. Seemed massive at the time but there you go...

You shouldn't but your BB shell might be out of spec in which case a BB spacer is the correct answer. Which side or sides it should go on would be a different question...

Seems to be pretty much bang on 68mm, but maybe a road crankset in a mountainbike bottom bracket causes the need for spacers. With a 2mm spacer at the NDS there's maybe 1mm of crank overhanging from the axle (does that make sense?) and everything seems to be working fine.

My thinking with stuff like this is that everything is hugely over-engineered for my 61kg anyway.

Ah, I overlooked the fact it's an MTB BB. That's the reason. The BB shell face to bearing face measurement on a Shimano road BB is about 11mm, but 10mm on MTB ones. 1mm spacer on either side or use a road BB.

The bike is mostly used for off-road riding so I'll stick with the spacers as I believe these are better-sealed. Thanks for the info!

Anyone know where I can get Rotor BB seals? The thin red silicone seals that sit outside the bearings. Mine shredded.

Best bet is with a new bearing kit I think. Unless you email the manufacturer and they are kind?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rotor-Bb30-bearing-kit/163146235245?hash=item25fc45fd6d:g:ZXkAAOSwAuZbR3qU

I need it before Friday so not much chance of favours from Rotor and that ebay is unlikely to arrive. I'll probably just run it without the seal unless I cough up for a whole new BB (Wheels Manufacturing BSA30 are £50-70 which is a bit annoying given my BB has >£40 worth of new bearings in it).

Found these but don't seem to be in the UK:
https://wheelsmfg.com/pf30-outer-seals.html

is this for the transcontinental? I checked my spares box but only have Rotor 4230 seals.

Sigma or Velotech? A Rotor stockist must have some knocking about...

Sigma have the bearing kits in stock which include the bearing shields.
https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Rotor/30mm-Bearing-Kit-For-BB30-Frames-Steel/7Y52

Yeah, I was going to install my replacement jockey wheels last night then got distracted by the horrible noises the bike keeps making (thought it was BB, suspect it's star ratchet still), started cleaning the BB area and saw a bit of the seal poking out. Dragged it out like a booger. Stupid bloody bikes. I had a quick look at Velotech last night - guess I didn't find anything.

http://velotechservices.co.uk/shop/Vprod3.asp?cat=239