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• #52
I actually already have a monument torch.
It's started needed stripping apart every so often though in order to keep it working. Not too sure what's wrong with it. So I was thinking about buying a new torch and wondered if I might go for something different.
The monument one is alright. The flame is pretty big, a smaller flame would be nice for finer jobs.
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• #53
Top work! Love the home-brew jigging technique
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• #54
Very inspirationnal!
Love the fact that more and more forumengers take the torch to customize their frames. -
• #55
Fanx.
These things are front rack bosses according to ceeway. I think they're a bit big. Could file them here & there I suppose. Any other options? Are they even supposed to be used like this?
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• #57
They're more commonly used on the seatstays
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• #58
Yeah I got a pair of 'rear' ones too, that are for seatstays. They're a bit wider but otherwise similar. Was thinking it'd be better to drill the fork legs and braze bosses into them but unsure if that'd hold up.
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• #59
Isn't it how it's done most of the time?
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• #60
I wouldn't put those on the front, you've done such a good job on the rear ones.
That said these Soma forks have both!
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• #63
I had to mod yours at the fork crown because uni crown.
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• #64
That looks perfectly normal. Use loads of flux and take your time heating it up evenly
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• #65
I have a fork with one of those at the bottom as well as mid-blade bosses (like the one @TheShipwright posted). I guess the advantage is that they can take a bolt from either side so might be worth having them if you ever want to mount mudguards on the inside of the fork so it's a bit neater. You could also put them at the bottom near the dropouts and use a porteur rack rather than something that mounts mid-blade.
But more generally drilling a fork in the middle of the blade sounds a bit scary to me - I know next to nothing about frame/fork modification though
Edit: now that I think about it I'm not sure how you'd mount mudguards on the inside of the fork using one of those really - would look odd because it's offset to the front or back of the fork blade, obviously. Not sure what I was thinking.
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• #66
Yeah but no but yeah but no but etc
I think it'll be fine, have watched a couple of vids plus these forks aren't built with super thin tubing. Will see which reinforcement plate looks best when they arrive.
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• #67
In other news I've grown tired of looking at nitto m18 racks and wondering why they're so fecking expensive. One of my mates has a fancy TIG rig and I'm thinking a tube bender and some stainless 8 mm tubing is the way to go when starting to make my own rack. Will probably use mid blade & fork crown bosses like the surly racks. Should be fun!
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• #68
stainless 8 mm tubing
Where do you source that in SE?
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• #69
Not sure yet, haven't had time to research it.
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• #70
There is clearance for 32mm tyres and 45 mm sks longboard with the axle in the middle of the dropouts. But only just, I had to trim the guard at the chainstay bridge and also filed out the bottom of the seatstay bridge a few mms.
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• #71
Did you do a repair on the BB shell at downtube/seattube?
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• #72
No but there was a crack in the paint there so I had to check. Looks like it's just an uneven edge on the weld, can't feel anything or provoke it when I try to bend with a long pipe through the bb shell.
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• #73
it would have been a pain to discover it after your works.
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• #74
Yeah but I've access to TIG so wasn't super worried. Here's a quick mockup of the thing, not too bad. Built the wheels a couple of months ago. Can't get the front guard radius right at the tip though, hopefully a front rack will push it down slightly.
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• #75
Looks good. Looks much nicer than other all cities
Yeah that's much more economical obviously. Had a look on ebay just now and there's a few v cheap torches there as well. Let us know which one you buy and how you get on with it?