Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I've had a branded brass nipples break in exactly that spot with spokes that were too short. It did involve a little nudge from the side by the bumper of a car though

I always build Archetypes with the spokes crossing the centre, as you put it (I think!).
On a rear wheel viewed from the DS, first spoke to the right of the valve hole always goes to NDS hub flange, while its corresponding larger hole inside the rim is offset slightly to the DS.
The spoke holes all pass through the centreline pointy bit of the rim profile, but are drilled at an angle alternating with each hole (I think; also can't check right now), and the larger holes inside the rim are offset as a result.
To build 'one spoke over' would put a lot of stress on the nipples and rim's nipples bed, potentially leading to spoke or nipple failure, or some kind of rim fatigue failure as a result of the nipple bed being twisted this way and that.

Thanks - makes sense. Not sure why I was getting confused!

298mm and 300mm are needed 298 and 299mm would be ideal.

with sapim longer nipples dont help. with DT swiss the answer is yes with ACI I dont know.

broken777 is right use the correct spoke lengths. using longer DT Swiss nipples to correct for spokes that are too short is a bodge. however brass nipples are not prone to breaking.

Afternoon all. Has a wanabe wheel builder who has built 5 pairs of wheels with the help of this forum a club member gave me a pair of hubs from a set off Syncros RL1.0 28mm carbon wheels where the rims where toasted, unfortunately i never got the chance to measure the ERD and spoke lengths which would have helped me calculate the lenght of the new spokes. These are going to be paired with DTswiss RR411 with a ERD of 601. This will also be my first build with straight pull spokes. Ive measured the hubs specs which are re branded DTswiss hubs , Which spoke calculator for straight pull spokes??

any recommendations for 20 and 16 hole rim something like kinlin xr22t

kinlin xr31!

I need to order more spokes - do you want me to order yours and we'll split the postage?

(I am after either 294mm 4-cross or 282mm 3-cross for the rear and 262mm radial, might take DB in black)

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Nah, you'd have to post them on to Norwich now anyway. Sorry!

Sounds like the dtswiss calculator will be your best bet!

Been away for a bit, sorry to drag this up again but in this case the spokes I plan to reuse would be 1.5mm longer than spoke calc says is needed... is this still a no?
Thanks in advance,
Matt

definately. threads will poke out by about 2mm and the you will run out of thread before that. of course moulson book suggests you can round up quite a bit. this though is wrong. the times I have done this the spoke always pokes out a bit too much. spoke stretch when stress relieved and the spokes bed into the hub as well.

DT Swiss may make the hubs but maybe not exact copies of what they put in there wheels. I doubt the DT swiss calculator will give the right results. i could be wrong. there is no calculator for straight pull hubs which is the problem.

you could do a drawing and with the position of the hole from the hub centre measured you could do a bit of trig to calculate the spoke length. That is the opposite, the adjacent will be the distance on the drawing (as its 2D) from the spoke hole to the rim. then spoke length = height of nipple head + sqrt(opp^2+adj^2)
I think that is.

Any forumenger in the clapham/brixton/wandsworth area free for a oh-so-fashionable dynamo 650b build at the moment?

I think that is

It's the same maths as j-bend spokes; locate the two ends in Cartesian space and do Pythagorus to the difference.

If the two ends are located at x₁y₁z₁ and x₂y₂z₂ then

Spoke length² = (x₁-x₂)²+(y₁-y₂)²+(z₁-z₂)²

Obviously in practice I'm lazy, and I'd just draw the rim and hub in CAD and let the computer do the maths.

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Any forumenger in the clapham/brixton/wandsworth area free for a oh-so-fashionable dynamo 650b build at the moment?

Hi
There’s a guy I know in West Norwood who builds wheels, he’s not really on this forum though, Thomas. Has a half-built website called Bramley Wheel Works.

Love the lorem ipsum he's got there, i'll shoot him an email - cheers muchly.

Ha! Lorem Ipsum in German!

Looking for a rim that fits the following criteria, what is there?

-26"
-Rim Brake
-Silver
-Tubeless friendly

Thanks!

I'm thinking about getting a dynowheel, and am going back and forth between just getting Spa to sell me a wheel and lights bundle, and learning the dark art and building it myself. I'm a big lad - 1.95m and ~100 kg - and the current wheelset is 36/36 Araya box section rims (PX-45?) on old 105 hubs. I usually run 32 or 35mm tyres, and was thinking of getting a 36h Shimano DH-3N80 for the front. What would be a good rim and spokes to use? Bonus points for something that would match the aesthetics of the other wheel.

If you're not after anything fancy check out the ultra-cheap £30 Decathlon dynamo wheels.

That what I did but with a short cut I'd didn't explain. What u did only works with a drawing otherwise you have to use the proper method you gave.