Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Have you got a duff one? If you calibrate it to whichever other gauge you're most confident in on a spoke does it also measure similar on other spokes at different tensions?

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I have two DT guage s they not duff as they give the same result.

Bear in mind that Pacenti TL-28 is prone to cracking just like the rest of the Pacentis of the First generation.

Around the eyelets? I've got a pair of TL-28 here waiting to be built: should I bother?

I bagged them cheap from Planet X over a year ago, so it would be no great loss to bin them.

Dammit, I just ordered them about an hour ago. I might just build them up anyway and attempt to reuse the hubs and spokes with proper rims if these ones start to fail. Edit: I got the CL25, not the TL28.

For those short of a couple of spokes, I have spare ACI double butted stainless steel spokes purchased from CycleBasket.

All brand new unused.

Let me know if you are after some, I am in Stoke Newington

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How many 290s have you got there?

@TomvanHalen

40 x 290mm

Got them for a tandem wheel that I didn't build #CSB

Ah, I'll need at least 48, possibly 64. Won't be avoiding Cyclebasket's postage costs after all!

I mentioned it before but if anyone needs wheels trued / spokes changed - I am happy to do it free of charge.

Just drop off the wheel(s) at mine and I will sort them out.
I am just asking for them to be fully cleaned/degreased and with no tyre/inner tube/rim tape.

I only have standard spokes so will caveat this offer to normal wheels and not bladed/crazy Mavic spokes.

Beware that I will 100% try to sell you Champagne

Can I get away with 298mm all round? So close...

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You can always get a spare bag of 16mm nipples in case the spokes are too short at the back...

Doesn't it depend on the threading though? I've read in a few places that longer nipples don't solve the problem of spokes that are too short

I am sure @cycleclinic will able to advise but if longer nipples did not help with spokes a bit too short, what would be the point for them?

if longer nipples did not help with spokes a bit too short, what would be the point for them?

To get the driving flats accessible on rims where the distance from the spoke bed to the rim inner diameter is larger than usual. Used to be an issue on V-shaped cross section aero rims such as CXP33 for example - if you use 12mm nipples, you can't get enough purchase with the spoke key before is clashes with the rim

The FORE-drilled UST rims need 14mm nipples for the same reason

Sapim nipples have the same thread location across all the sizes 12,14 and 16mm

Dt swiss nipples will effectively "give" you 1mm extra thread on spokes on 14mm and 2mm of thread on 16mm

Is there an increased rim of the nipples breaking though?

i.e.

On a branded brass nipple? Very unlikely.

Besides, on 12mm with a thread fully engaged, the spoke protrudes over the nipple.

On 14mm the spoke sits flush with the nipple end

On 16mm the spokes sits flush with the" mushroom" part of a nipple.As long as the spoke fills that portion, all is well.

With aluminium nips, it would have been an issue. With brass, not really.

Cheers, good info. So could I go 16mm nipples all round or will there not be enough thread on the shorter spokes? In a way avoiding the issue of mismatched spoke lengths by having mismatched nipples is a bit silly. Although I assume spokes are much more prone to fail than nipples.

Personally I would build the wheels with the correct sized spokes. Because, proper 😂

In case I was going touring and I only wanted to carry same size spares I would just take the shorter spokes. Good enough for emergency and you can repair your wheels properly, once you are back.

You will see spoke elbow failures every now and then. But I have seen very few snapped brass nipples.

If you need spokes in 1mm increments I stock custom cut sapim spokes. You can also get 0.5mm increments.

Sounds good but I'm on a bit of a budget - currently looking at ACI Alpina or whatever they're called at £5 for 20 spokes, which might be hard to beat!

I've seen a lot of broken brass nipples, but almost all from polo the spokes getting smashed with balls.

I’m replacing a worn 32 hole archetype laced with dt comp spokes to dt240 hub, 3 cross, built by a chap that I rate. My intention is to reuse the spokes.

I’ve done this a fair number of times and I tape pairs of spokes together, loosen them off gently going round the wheel. Then transferred the lot to the new rim

However, the spoke holes in the archetypes have quite a large offset stagger, and the spokes are laced so they cross the centre (so that a spoke goes from the left side of the hub to the right side offset hole in the rim). I assumed that a spoke always goes to a hole closest to minimise the angle of entry to the rim.

So, either the “handedness” has changed on the new rim compared to the old (which went in a recycling bin a week ago so I can’t check), or the chap laced it so the spokes cross over to the opposite side (and I can’t check that till Tuesday).

I don’t want to move the spokes from the pattern they’ve been in (as everything has worn into place). I can just “advance” the spokes on the rim to get the correct line up - but I’ll have to deal with spikes crossing over the valve hole.

Any views? Is it normal for the same rim to come in different handedness? Or is crossing spokes to the far offset hole accepted practise?