Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Ah ok. Thanks guys!

Can confirm the bottle-cage-mounted case for internal batteries includes many ports. No need for junction B.

What would be the way to do a 1x Di2 on a bike that isn't Di2 ready?

@thrust Etap

powerdrill

Much electrical tape

Conductive paint?

Drill out the cable stops and route internally through them + some tape.

if you drill the holes at 6mm you don't need tape and can just use these:

External routing.

Right, wanting to get all the parts needed for my build. Is there anything missing below to get me started?
Bits I have
ST-R785 shifters
SM-EW90-A
SM-JC41
BT-DN110 (Cheers @Amey)

Bits I think I still need
R8050 front/rear mechs
SM-BCR2 charger
Cables - Shifter to juction A (x2), Junction A to B, Junction B to front/rear and battery

Do I need the EW-WU111 wireless unit?

Anything missing?

Do I need the EW-WU111 wireless unit?

Anything missing?

Looks good to me. The EW-WU111 isn't essential - depends if you want to get Di2 readouts on your head unit and/or update the Di2 firmware wirelessly.

Could probable save myself some money and not get the wireless unit or at least get it another time.

I have a 6800 medium cage rear derailleur if you're interested.

Cheers, but wanting to get the r8000 medium cage for wider range cassette.

Finally trying to build up my Isen with my R8070 groupset. I got the option with the bar end junction box. I'm struggling to find a bar which I can use with this.

I received a Deda superzero carbon bar yesterday which says it is di2 internal routing compatible, but the routing is only under the top in a covered channel and there is no way of threading a cable from the inside to the outside.
Any recommendations for a bar I can use? Is the alloy version of the superzero different in how it is routed?

Weirdly some of them are. I think the some of the prior versions of the Superzero alloy version had holes which let you route the cable all the way round to the bar end.

I had to order some from a couple of different places and return to finally find some with the holes. Ended up getting some from amazon in the end.

@Dick knows the right answer. There is one

I have used 3t aeronova bars for exactly this purpose

Was glad I bought the jag wire internal routing kit because the cables needed some guidance to get round the drops to the bar end.

My alloy Superzeros have smaller holes underneath but the same concept. Short run of internal cabling under the tops. Couple inches max. Nothing by the levers or bar ends

Indeed - the 1st gen alloy Deda SuperZero, not the new version, has two very accommodating holes under each side of the ‘tops’ allowing all and any cable type to be routed, and allowing access to the full length of the bar internally.
Having played around with almost every internally routable bar going (both Carbon and Alloy) the SuperZero offer the best value for money, and particularly as a bar on a gravel/allroad/gnarmac/awhatever they’re called this week etc bike I’m loathe to use anything other than an alloy bar. Yes Carbon is very strong but I really don’t want to have to worry when I’m throwing this bike about having fun.
Plus the SuperZero are stiffer than most Carbon bars I’ve ever used.

Yeah I guess it depends if you’re looking to bar end junction or not!

I was just thinking of the pro bars drilled by the ends. Obviously you can just run wires up from the bar end internally to the hole and back out to the lever. Didn’t think of that ha!
But yeah they’re sick bars. Really like the shape, they look good with the logos on the tops removed and they’re super stiff.

I’m going to attempt to “Pro drill” the ends on the next Di2 project I do, still a bit shit having to externally route supposed internal junction though.
Pro/Shimano need to step their game up and bring out some proper internally routable bars like the SuperZero

In fairness, i guess it’s not supposed, the junction is internal. They didn’t say internally wired junction box