Dynamo Lights

Well yeah Supernova say not to use it on road and everyone does. It doesn't harm any poor widdle drivers since they're all staring at their phones anyway...

IQ-X is one of the best beams I've yet to see. Good throw as well. Nicest thing about it I personally found is cornering at speed with it. You don't feel like the light is trying to keep up, if that makes any sense? Not sure it does...but As much as I like my E3 Pure....I'd replace it immediately if it was on a faster bike.

I cruise at beer speed now so doesn't matter...

I'll put one on my todo list to try out I reckon.

Some fucker stole the front wheel off my wife's bike last night. A good reason to go full dynamo, have located a dh3d72 hub, a rim & possibly also spokes. Does anyone have a set of f&r lights they want to sell me?

Any recommendations for a budget setup? Looking to put dynamo lighting onto my city/pub run-around, so nothing fancy, just reliable and cheap.

Won't be putting in lots of miles, but sometimes carry a fair load on the front rack, so decent bearings/serviceable/replaceable would be nice.

Found lights. Front used supernova from a forum and rear off ebay, very cheap here:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372116897991

B&M. Topline if you run a rack, Secula if not. All the front lights are good, some better than others. The Eyc is excellent for around town but there are cheaper options too.

+1 for B+M rear lights. Mid range/cheap fronts are fine too. Also AXA are pretty damn cheap, might get more for your front light money.

For the hub - dh3d72 or the Alfine equivalent. Bearings are supposed to be serviceable. I've had mine fully submerged in a ford/muddy pond (oops), rode it for a long dry day after that and it's been fine.

Disc?

https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=182885;menu=1000,2,98;pgc%5B6616%5D%5B6619%5D=1;orderby=2

+

https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=134174;menu=1400,1410,1411

if not disc then this: https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=183708;menu=1000,2,98;pgc%5B6616%5D%5B6619%5D=1;orderby=2

Thanks for the advice, now pondering wether to go mid-range, invest a bit (B&M + Nexus) and I can drop onto other bikes in the future...

.....or gamble thirty quid on this which was linked to in another Dynamo Hubs thread. I'll wait and see if Thrasher has a review ...then consider if the est. 20-40 day delivery time means I'll get it in spring 2018...

@Amey, not on disc at the moment, but prob will get a hub with the option. It's a Mk1 Cannondale Badboy, and the forks are heavy as, would love to swap them out someday and drop a cheap disc on.

Installed the Secula light over the weekend. My SKS guard had a reflector so whipped that off and all the holes were there. I also got the protector thingy just in case...
Stand light worked ok once the capacitor was charged and overall it seems bright enough.
With a steel frame I’m wondering if I can tidy the cabling by using the frame and mudguard stays as an earth/return.
And while typing this wondering if it would be possible to use the brake or gear cable as the live?

gamble thirty quid

The shimano is much better option in that case, that Axa is the brightest cheapest sweet spot. If you are ok to go below 70lux loads of cheaper options, for the rear Secula. Such bright!

Newer brake cables are often coated, I wouldn't bother.
Using stays/frame as an earth return is fine but don't run the current through any bearings. The real question is whether it's worth it considering you need to get something to the light. All the B&M wire is twin core and looks just as neat as a single core. If you really care you can use co-axial cable and it looks even neater (although is a faff to strip etc etc).

Anyone had a frame modified for internal routing? What was involved? Was it worth it? Are there any better neat solutions for external routing (hydro braze-ons)?

mine is routed internally on a frame that has provision for Di2 routing, rear cable exits along with rear mech cable and the light is mounted on drive side seat stay

I've done it on a steel frame, drilled a hole in the down tube, fed cable down to the BB and out through a hole in the shell, routed along the mudguard lip to rear guard mounted light. Used some rubber grommets that I got off ebay to tidy up the holes in the frame.

This is exactly what I've been pondering today. I like my bikes looking neat and the integrated 'constructeur' thing appeals.
Did you drill into the head lug on the underside of the DT? What're the chances of the tube failing? I was wondering about a braze-on bottle cage mount which I've seen done but then ... repaint. How to stop a crack forming/spreading from the drilled holes in fork or DT?

What about internal routing in the front fork, anyone done this successfully? I'd like to keep the wiring as tidy as possible (inside fork to front, under front mudguard to lower head lug, coil, down down tube, maybe through BB shell, out the back, inside mudguard to rear light.

Simple. 😂

Is the Edelux coaxial too thick to conceal in the rolled edge of a VO ali mudguard? Id wondered about splitting a bell cable wire and having it concealed in both sides of the mudguard.

Idk about VO guards but GB were no problem.

.

Nice.

You weren't worried about drilling through the DT with no reinforcement?

Did you open up the rolled edge of the GB 'guard and run the co-ax in there?

This is the obvious solution for internal. I did wonder about routing around the inside of the headtube as the light will be rack mounted, but it would mean tight turns in the cable, and there's probably not enough space anyway. Argos have said they can sort something but I think they're refusing to engage me on the subject until I actually drop the frame off.

How to stop a crack forming/spreading from the drilled holes?

I used a thin dremel bit to smooth the edges as well as I could.

You weren't worried about drilling through the DT with no reinforcement?

Yes. But then I did it anyway :) hasn't failed yet, I'm 80-82 kgs + handlebar bag.

Did you open up the rolled edge of the GB 'guard and run the co-ax in there?

I didn't have to open it up, lots of room. I had to give it a squeeze here and there to keep the coax in place, rather.

I like your style.

Did you also route the wire inside the fork?