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• #77
Yep, the front will be built on the on-one, the rear will be on a miche primato fixed. Of course, my non matching hubs will exclude me from a porn listing. C'est la vie.
(The old hubs are clasic 1970s Normandy jobbies.)
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• #78
Strip the paint before building?
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• #79
As long as you don't do anything stupid to the frame, you can build it up anyway you like. Be interesting to see clearances later. I foresee... fat tyres... &/or... mudguards...
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• #80
Strip the paint before building?
Not got the funds or patience for that right now.
Starting out as a semi nice beater which will become a lovely thing sometime next year perhaps. Thinking original paint colour and custom decals to match the originals.
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• #81
Just keep it ratty dude.
Bloody hell you're in a rush! Takes me years to build a bike.
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• #82
Ha! I want to ride it.
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• #83
I'm getting close to being able to lace up the wheels for this.
Definitely 3 cross rear but I am pondering a radial front.
It'll be 36 spoke, on the On-One large flange hub.
First concern is instadeath due to the flanges spontaneously ripping off the hub. Surely this is massively unlikely?
Second concern is aesthetics. Any thoughts?
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• #84
I think anything more than 28 hole looks better 2x or 3x. With 36 hole radial, you'll be looking like Dr Dre's cadillac.
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• #85
Ha, that's probably true.
I've just been mulling it over whilst riding back from town. Classic 3 cross. No one got fired for building 3 cross.
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• #86
Update:
I now have wrapped bars and a front brake. Also wheels have been built, laced by me finished by @Skülly. Thanks mate.
Now it's off to BC to measure the chainline against this wheelset and crankset, so I can buy the right length BB.
Picking up a seatpost tomorrow from @bikes_knob and I have a saddle and pedals. Hopefully I'll be riding it by the weekend.
Yay!
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• #87
Yikes, I hope you pushed the rear axle into the dropouts before driving off!
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• #88
It's in the dropout and screwed on tight. Sick clearances yah bru?
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• #89
OK, so is this dangerous?
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• #90
Specifically, the axle is within the dropout so the lock nut has full metal above and below to grip to. Unless the axle were at the back of the dropout, giving the rear portion for the nuts to bind too, isn't this as good as half way along?
Happy to be educated.
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• #91
I would put it toward the middle of the drop out - but I base that decision on no evidence whatsoever other than the odd mistake of not tightening up the rear axle enough and damn near injuring myself on test rides.
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• #92
tl:dr - not helpful
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• #93
It'll all come down to chain length anyway. So.....
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• #94
nut has full metal above and below to grip to.
Exactly, nearly. Does look like it curves off at the bottom before the edge of the bolt. So its gonna be slightly less grippy than in the middle I suspect
But still probably fine
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• #95
Fine enough to sit on top of the car.
Chainline all decided, I hope. Miche Primato track hub + EAI sprocket is 42mm. Andel Zenith +Shimano UN55 110mm should also give me 42mm.
So, I've got a UN55 ordered, along with appropriate BB tool and crank pullers, just in case.
This could, possibly, be rubber on the road as early as tomorrow night, depending on CRC's delivery partner's efficacy.
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• #96
I have all the toolz if you need them.
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• #97
Tools are on order and were not too spendy. Good to own them.
Thanks though.
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• #98
I'm so excited about riding this.
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• #99
Tyres look nice too...
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• #100
Oh yeah, thanks for those ;-)
Get the on-one hub though or similar if you're building new wheels. Or are the old hubs special in any way?