Which Groupset?

Yeah I'm starting to think even Shimano wants you to buy ETap!

Sportive thread >>>

So apparently Ultegra R8000 brakes take 28c tyres with space for a mudguard.

So does R8000 get the LFGSS aesthetic seal of approval?

Asking for a friend.

I like it, lfgss likes to disagree with me so... probably not.

I like it, and I hate Ultegra 6800

Y u h8

Yeah they're branded to be designed for this stuff, they're actually fucking rubbish - got both the Vibe and Vibe LTD at mine waiting to be returned if you want to have a look.

Is that only if you don't use the internal routing stem, or for some other reason? I rather liked the idea of the internal routing through the bars and down the inside of the stem, but if they're crap I won't bother.

The Vibe LTD don't have any internal routing at all

The Vibe alloy only have 1 entry point for Di2 cables (the stem facing side of the stem mounting central part) and one exit point at the very end of each of the drops, which means you have to run the cables up the OUTSIDE of the drops to wire them into the hoods!!

They're both fucking ridiculous and utterly pointless.

Sigma, where I ordered the LTD from, apologised to me and said that the bars were very badly marketed as being Di2 routing ready.

Neither offer anything close to full internal routing and for the cost of them and their whole marketing ploy frankly they should be embarrassed.

I haven't had a stem in my hand to work out how it routes, but my guess, considering the hash they've made of attempting bar routing, is that it will also be utterly useless unless and look messier than the current under stem junction box solution.

I seem to remember seeing that Chris Froome is using the stem on his F10 in the TDF but I couldn't see if the junction/cabling is fully integrated or not.

They must be using a set of bars that has internal routing with exit holes by the levers, but I doubt they'll have the bar end junction box as IIRC F10 has the junction mounted in the flat face of the downtube - can't see any E-TUBEs anywhere here.

It also worries me exactly how the stem securely clamps to the steerer if there is space to run an E-TUBE down there somewhere....

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Hhmmm. That does sound crap. There was an article on Cycling News, I think, about some other PRO bars with internal routing which looked quite good, although they've made the drops 'aero' so the pros all seemed to have the drops double taped. Which seems a bit futile.

Yeah there are the bars with the Aero tops which are about £100000000 and have full internal routing but I may aswell stick with the SuperZero if we're talking about Aero Tops.

All I'm asking for is a nice pair of standard compact drops, no aero shit, with FULL internal brake and Di2 routing....

Pro promised it and failed

Here's the bits @danstuff

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I just glanced that in an email.

Di2 hydro?

How many ports do the shifters have?

Have you seen this/had a chance to play with it in the shop yet?

Super cheap over at bike24, tempting to put it on my utility in place of the current bar-end setup if the shifting is half decent.

Is 50/34 and an 11-32 too spinny for any reasonable road use and occasional club runs?

*I'm a weak climber, and generally pretty slow. Also moving to Cornwall.

**but I've seen a very lightly used 11-28 group come up for cheap nearby.

No. I know people who race on that combo.

No - I ran 1X 50x11-36 and did 120km 30+kph club runs over winter

Might take a little getting used to but wouldn't be an issue, especially in Cornwall

Whats spinny?

http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_speed

50-11 = 35.8 mph @ 100 rpm on 25 tyres

43 @ 120 rpm

I use that for ultra racing.
I'd use a closer block for flat time trials but everything else is manageable.

Cheers y'all. Make's me think I'll fork out for the 11-32 group. May well be used for light touring to so it makes sense.

@dst I'm less concerned about cadence max out than having a usable range in the big ring, as it's annoying having to shift down front when pootling along (like I said, I'm slow).

I just drilled hole sin my alloy bars and ran the cable myself. It's an easy job.

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Holes.

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You need one exit hole on the none junction side and two holes (one entry and one exit) on the junction side.

I ran the junction B cable (the one down by the BB) to shifter cable up through the frame and then alongside the rear brake cable to the left shifter, externally.

Then internal bar cable from left shifter to right shifter.

Finally an internal cable from right shifter to bar end junction.