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• #11102
I used those X-shaped tile spacer things to ensure I got at least a couple of millimetres of Gripfil down the back. If your dextrous enough, I would suggest filling the void down the back with gripfil, then a neat triangular cross-section bead of sealant, 'this side' of the joint.
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• #11103
It'll probably be set off the wall a little to ensure proper overhang (one of the units is a little deeper than the rest). I'll seal the back with silicon, can't hurt.
That's the underside of the top BTW if anyone was wondering
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• #11104
Ha, just a Milwaukee 5", it's got guts though. The damage was done by the door frame masonry nails into the shitty cinder block, I fucking hate these internal walls. Luckily I still have bags of cement, bonding and plaster but it's a nause when the weathers so nice.
We have carpets for the stairs and landing coming a week on Tuesday, so far I've plastered the entire stairwell and landing and mist coated, need to sand window boards, paint everything twice, cut all the skirts and arcs, satin the lot plus the stairs. Le sigh.
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• #11105
Cleared garden and painted the fence today. In the sun all day. Burnt to a crisp.
Now I just need to buy and plant a whole load of new foliage.
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• #11106
ANOTHER mirror?!
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• #11108
Lol
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• #11109
That's just a portrait of his barbecue.
Cheers for the advice y'all. I promise I'll post some photos of where it's going soon.
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• #11110
Prob need to physically scrub the drain and shower trap.
Biofilm. -
• #11111
Hmm, that is not great news. It's a wet room deal. I'll have to see if I can remove the drain cover.
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• #11112
Nanobots?
Small children? -
• #11113
You may find success with a low hazard suggestion.
Removing all the biofilm is probably impossible.
Given the pipework is designed to allow volumes of water to discharge,
using strong chemicals, (strongly alkaline NaOH based 'drain cleaner', strongly acidic
'chew through anything' liquids), as you do not have a blockage,
most of the (relatively expensive) chemical will just literally 'go down the drain',
with little contact time.Cheap table salt/ice-on-path clearing salt can be poured into the u-bend,
dissolving into the water and 'blocking' it.You then pour on freshly boiled water. The salt will instantly dissolve into the hot water,
but you will have the entire volume of the u-bend full of hot, (hot enough to kill biofilm), very saline, (saline enough to kill biofilm), liquid for (hopefully) enough contact time to kill most of your biofilm.Salt/hot water is cheap enough to try a couple of times.
Provisos: waste pipe is not designed to, nor capable of withstanding an entire kettle full of freshly boiled water, so have a container of cold water to flush the hot saline away.
Exercise due care & attention when pouring the hot water onto the u-bend of salt. You don't want any splashes getting onto exposed skin/into eyes. -
• #11114
I've found that the "foaming" drain cleaners (normally a container with two different chemicals that mix as you pour) work pretty well for drains that aren't really blocked but could do with clearing. If it's not blocked then normal drain cleaner seems to wash straight down.
This kind of thing https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mr-Muscle-Drain-Foamer-500ml/dp/B000TAPCQ8 Although it's often on special offer for a few quid.
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• #11115
Great suggestions, thanks all.
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• #11116
Bit late to this but if you go for underfloor heating make sure you seal the feet of any wooden furniture you've got - it's normal to leave the feet of cabinets and chairs unvarnished, but wood (especially oak) will dry out and change shape if it's got constant heat running up the grain from contact with a heated floor.
My ex's dad is a cabinet maker in the North East - we spent one summer driving around helping him to collect old furniture he'd made, the owners had since installed underfloor heating and the cabinets needed some serious repair.
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• #11117
Ah good point, had not considered at all, we have just pay a silly amount of money to have some furniture restored so would have been very annoyed...
Think we are erring on the side of having nice column radiators rather than underfloor heating currently...
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• #11118
Maybe I'm going about this the wrong way, but as mentioned previously I was hoping to get my trap in this void behind the cupboard. The only way I can figure out how to do this now is with one of these, and blanking off the unused inlet. Even then I'll have to extend the horizontal section.
Is there such a thing as a 90° fitting that'll attach directly on to a sink waste, and another male one to go on to the trap?
edit: This looks like what I need
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• #11119
Units and tops now all in. Wall cupboards, shelving, architraves, skirting, plinths, upstands and lighting still to go.
I suppose I should run the splashback right down to the top right, rather than above the upstand?
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• #11120
That brown panel is removable, so there's full access to the trap, which also has the dishwasher waste connection. The reason being is to free up as much space as possible below the sink.
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• #11121
I just forgot to use the disposable-BBQ stand-thingy and set fire to my BBQ shelf.
I am not pleased.
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• #11122
Good sausages.
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• #11123
The grout between the tiles on my kitchen floor is pretty knackered. It's coming away in various places and a couple of tiles have cracked and could do with being replaced.
What's the process for this:
Chip out existing grout.
Remove the broken tiles and replace with some tile cement.
Grout the tiles, wipe clean after ten minutes or so.It's a long, long time since I've done any tiling so a little hazy.
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• #11124
I chased 2x 3A cables into the wall when I had my re-plastering done, with the view to installing LED strips (1 & 1.5m long). now it seems I really didn't think about the electrical layout well at all as the only way to do it with one switch operating both is by wiring them in series, and when doing so they emit virtual NO light. Now I knew there'd be a voltage drop in theory, but didn't know the effect would be that pronounced!
weirdly I did much the same before and it worked ok so I think cable length / selection could be a factor.
I need to school myself on 'lectrics it seems.
CSB edit: thinking about it 2 switches will solve everything.
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• #11125
Cracking and or falling out grout, cracking and or tiles falling off is normally a sub floor issue. lots of professional tilers won't do this bit right
1st worktop ready to go in. Cutting was a piece of piss! Is it worth sealing the back edge? It'll be sealed in under an upstand but wondered if it was common practice for diligence.
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