Ritchey Breakaway Titanium CX

Actually I'm a bloody idiot, I can't detach the cable through the canti hanger either...
might change the hanger, though the Ritchey WCS one looks nice!

Sunny day update:

how does it ride?

Haven't ridden it anger yet, just a quick loop or two around the block to check the brakes and gears.

Need a bit more toe in, but not much judder in the brakes.

Minor contact point and gear adjustments and hope for good weather this weekend!

8.35kg, not too bad with 400g tyres and 150g tubes.

Went for a first proper 20 mile ride yesterday through Hampshire yesterday.
Quite bouncy and comfortable, not used to larger volume tyres and titanium so I'm liking it!
Managed to go off-road and join the South Downs way accidentally which was fine for me, but not so fine for my wife's 23mm continental tyres... no punctures but not much grip on mud and gravel.

I'd changed to a 120mm ritchey WCS stem, which is a bit too long so need to find a suitable 100mm one. Need to adjust the dérailleurs a bit and maybe get a flexible noodles for the front and back cable runs to improve braking feel.

No issues with the brakes, about 1.5mm of toe in seems to have done the trick!

I've got a 100mm Deda Zero100 if you want it?

I'd be very interested actually, is it -8 degrees rise?

Indeed it is. I'll PM you

Better stem and better position courtesy of @MechaMorgan

Can anyone suggest a good V brake / mini brake option? Getting some juddering on the front canti brake, got really tight cable run at the front which should be sorted by V brake.

Re-embedding some photos due to photobucket

I've got these on my Nature boy, there very good but not really bling enough.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/tektro-926al-mini-v-brake/rp-prod34580

you'll need some kind of travel agent to get them to work with drop levers too.

These look nice.

https://www.merlincycles.com/trp-cx9-linear-pull-cyclocross-brakes-black-pair-54955.html

or Pauls, but I don't like the way they tension the springs.

I was looking ath the TRP CX9s, can't be bothered with travel agents.
Going to put some spacers under the stem to open up the space, rotate the brake levers up on the handlebars and maybe try some over stem cable routing like this:

@Hulsroy has some TRP CX 8.4 s for sells, that I have dibs on, if they'll work for you give him a shout and I'll drop out ( as my bank balance isn't great, if no good for you then I'll still have em and live off dry bread for a while).

you can't get better than shortys on that frame .. or any canti frame with road levers, you wont enjoy the CX9/8.4 experience.

When I say travel agent, I mean these.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cables/tektro-91712-v-brake-lead-pipe-with-adjuster-90-deg/

Which are less hassle than an normal travel agent.

Routing the cable over the stem improves my cable pull feel.
Although the judder stop with brake pads toe in.

Brake judder can be resolved. Loads of advice on how to via Google, but this is a pretty comprehensive article;

http://www.velonews.com/2010/09/news/cyclocross/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-return-to-cross_101807

In summary, try more toe in, change pads, tighten headset, change fork, crown mounted cable stop (my forks are undrilled), use V brake.

Essentially, yes. The cable stop is the best option, you can get ones that fits to the headset and shorten the cable span, which helps a lot in my experience.

I have one of these already fitted:

I've tightened the headset, raised the stem a little to relax the bend in the front cable (before I change the cable entirely).
Got some different brakepads I can try, but will try some epic toe in first.

If I change the headset cover to a standard one, and add a different hanger with split adjuster, I will be to release the front brake cable from the stop (using the cable splitter) and take off the handlebars for travel.

The current one as in the picture above doesn't allow the cable to come out.
Any easy way of determining which headset cover might be a suitable replacement?

You really shouldn't need epic toe in. A 5p at the rear of the pad and the front touching the rim, tighten everything, slacken cable slightly, should be job done.

Someone (like Ritchey) should market a headset with the cable guide integrated into the bottom cup, as shortening the length of the brake cable is the simplest way to eliminate judder. But with cantis slowly disappearing from cross, it might be too much of a niche product.

Radical toe-in isn't usually needed, just enough that the front of the brake block hits the rim first. A credit card at the back of the brake block is a good way of getting the right angle.

Edit: it's a bit easier to hold in place than a 5p piece.