Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Might that work for my skinny 62kg?

RR511, 24H 2X would work for my porky 100kg+ as long as I wasn't jumping or smacking into things, you have a good deal more safety margin :)

as long as I wasn't jumping or smacking into things

I might be though :p
But that sounds great! It's settled then, 24/24 RR 511 DB on Mack low flange.
As for nipples, I read that I need fancy ones like these. Is there any reason why I should got for brass except for the price? (35 Cents vs. 60 Cents for black, I just might go for silver nipples and spokes)
Also I couldn't find the washers, are they crucial or included in either rims or nipples?

edit: washers seem to be included in the rims.

washers seem to be included in the rims.

Nipples too, according to DT.

Oh yeah, missed that. Awesome! Gotta check what colour the nipples have. For the looks!
That's a wrap then. I probably will come back in 8-9 weeks when the hubs arrive :)
Thanks!

Hey, man, I have asked kindly for some help. If you don't want to help, I will be fine.

Also, if you notice, I put some serious questions few days ago, but nobody answered, even I ask you about it. I have asked about hubs, x2 or x3 also, 32 or 28 spokes, etc...Maybe my English is not very good, also I am not so technical like you; I've said before, this is my 1st project.

So I don't think you must be rude and using fucking word was really necessarily. If you have any problem because I am from another country, just let me know. Thanks!

If you have any problem because I am from another country, just let me know.

This is London, we love people wherever they come from, but wherever you come from, don't expect to be spoon fed. The exact question you asked was answered less than a week ago in the very same thread; if you can't be bothered to make use of the information we provide for strangers from the future, don't expect us to be nice (even though I was actually really nice and linked to the post you should have read before wasting our time asking the same question again)

Oh, a very touchy answer. I was close enough...kinda expected this type of kindness from you. I am on forums for a long time, more than 2009, I saw a lot of different people, a few like you, only pride and glory. There is always a "we-us-our", but you forget that it's only about you. Fighting online with people like you, who are very strong behind the keyboard, might only one thing. But you've got my point.

I am admin/moderator/member for a few forums, but who cares. I respect people from other forums/countries/facebook groups/newbies/dumb or maybe more or less technical people, no matter what. And I always help, even some people are really newbie/dumb/you name it...we all started from somewhere. But you forget that, isn't it?

Maybe I am from "2007", like you said, but I don't have memory problems. The only answer I've got from you was about SL hubs are tested. No explications. I never buy something without understand what that product do. If I wanted this kind of help I could buy some wheels set and that's it. But I always care about what I bought.

Need an example for better understanding?
"Hey, matte, what you think about Mazda?"
"Buy it!"
"Yes, master!"

Last though. "we-us-our", there is some people who answered to my questions. Very well appreciated! But not from you. Anyway "I was actually really nice", no offence taken, but nice bullshit, well served. 1 point for you. Happy now?

Maybe I am wrong, no harm intended. I am a very peaceful guy, also fair and I don't need to be spoon fed. A lot of stress, my father it's in coma, sick, and my country is close to another revolution because politically sh*t . I come in here just to keep the mind occupied with something nicer and finish this project.

Like I said, if you don't wanna help, no offense taken. Some people are nicer, some people don't. Thanks again!

Telling the forum's most helpful member he's not being helpful...

Maybe he was for others, I can't disagree. But for me he was not. I don't have any problem with that, but I don't like people who are not polite with other members just because some are "the best" in the filed. Behind every wheel there is a human...
I am a fair guy. I always appreciate peoples help, not only for me, for others members too. I am very helpful in my domain(s) too, I make no difference. I expected the same. If not, it's fine. Like I said, some people are nicer, some people don't. It's a big world.

Behind every wheel there is a human...

I enjoyed this one.

Forum t-shirt?

But for me he was not.

He did tell you where to find the info.

He did tell you where to find the info.

...because you couldn't be bothered to read the thread before asking...

Wheel Truing -
No experience of this and no truing stand but is it worth me having a go or just going to my LBS.
I've read online that it's possible without a stand but any hints or tips would be appreciated.

Keeping the wheel in the frame/fork and using the brake pads for orientation should do the job

Cheers

That doesn't work for radial truing though.

Keep in mind that the nipples only unwind themselves so you should only be tightening, not loosening

Zipties on the stays can help you spot lateral and radial deviations.

Thanks for the tips @danslecarton @Simba and @Emyr

has anyone got the roger musson wheelbuilding PDF? had it on my old computer but can't find it again. super annoying as its so great!

edit: sorted it

finally got a set of the Pacenti Brevet rims these do look good. The question is though why are Pacenti offering a 28H version. People who ride brevet are unlikely to to gram pinch are they maybe I am wrong.

My 3-cross 28h wheels always seem to build into stronger wheels than similar with 32h. Maybe it's the higher bracing angle? IMO well worth getting 28 over 32 if lacing this way, with added weight bonus.

EDIT: 'bracing angle' = incorrect terminology. Meant theta angle, at which the spoke leaves the hub relative to the radius, or whatever the technical term is for that!

Anyone know if the Velocity A23 and Major Tom put the brake tracks in the same place, to allow for quick wheel changes? Width is the same, depth slightly different, profile looks to be the same.

Width is the same, depth slightly different, profile looks to be the same.

Diameter is different. The 700C clincher is 622mm at the bead seat, the 28" tubular should be 632mm at the ID of the tyre. That usually means that the tubular rim's brake track will be at a slightly larger diameter than the clincher, but it depends on the height of the bead hook above the bead seat diameter. Sometimes you can get away with swapping from clinchers to tubs or vice versa without adjusting your brakes, but it's not guaranteed.