Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

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  • 32 is the casing width and 30 is the tread width

  • Right, so it's more a genuine 32.

    Frustrates me that there are so few 30c tyres out there. Challenge Strada Bianca seems like pretty much the only option. I've heard mixed reviews.

  • Doesn't seem that wide.

  • Riding 33 almanzos ATM.

  • yes better rolling resitance. I pump mine up as often as did with tubes.
    Leaving a wheel unintended might mean someone else might start using it.

  • the crack does not always happen even with good tubeless tyres on good tubeless rims. IRC tyres which remain firmly locked in place on many rims with no air in the tyre do not ping and crack when locking in place. It can be a silent affair. Schwable tyres on the other hand do this with noise.

    I have only unmounted a tyre in a race when something put a 20 to 30mm gash in a tubeless tyre in a lotus league race and I tried to continue racing. The tyre unseated and I had to stop. It take real effort which is a good thing.

  • the best tubed clincher out there. the only tubed clincher that I like and has done good mileage for me.

  • I think someone here posted conti gp4k 28c actually size up to 30 on an archetype rim iirc

  • ztr alpha 340 and one of those IRC?

  • Those tyres on those rims will be a good fit but be warned, Schwable and IRC tyes (other too) will cause rim compression and the 340 rim is not stiff radially so a massive tension drop will be seen and the wheel can move out of dish as well. Once the tyre is mounted and inflated you might need to raise spoke tension to 100kf on the DS (in case you change tyres at a later date) and adjust dish. you will probably have to do this with any tubeless tyre on the 340 rim. The tension changes needed will not be big but should be done to improve spoke life. wheels with the 340 rim are probably best bought with tubeless tyres fitted so the arrive right. This is why I am keen on wheels I build leaving with tubeless tyres as the tension drop seem is big on all wheels and as there is variation between tyres (no matter how small) it can mean that after a tubeless tyre is fitted I sometimes have to add tension to all spokes or just one side. The pacenti SL23 V2 rim was a good one for this. When tubeless tyres where mounted the rim moved to the NDS and 1/4 turn was needed to pull the wheel back to be dished again.

  • do carbon rims distort (as much) when tubeless tyres are fitted?

  • deformate

    Not a word in the English language, but I like it.

  • lol! using (poorly) 3 languages all day messes me up sometimes

  • Adding depth adds vertical stiffness and resistance to compression (deep alu vs shallow alu like Stans) and carbon usually adds stiffness over alu.

  • would you descend alps on ztr 340 and tubeless set up correctly? I am 66kg btw.

  • Are you going to the alps?

  • yeah couple of trips in summer

  • Any reason why you'd really want the 340? Just seem like a liability to me.

  • cheap mainly, then light.

  • Velocity Quill?

  • nice but not easily available and will be pricey .. I was looking at this: https://r2-bike.com/Wheelset-28-Novatec-Hubs-NoTubes-Rim-Road-Clincher-Sapim-CX-Ray-RR-CX

  • Velocity make a slightly wider R460 for triple the price of an R460

  • r460 is my plan B, on bitex with CX rays.

  • You've got to factor in that dusty promo video and #buyer rep...

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Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

Posted by Avatar for polybikeuser @polybikeuser

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