Dynamo hubs

I've been using the SV-9 since that post, commuting 120-180km a week, with a B&M IQ-X up front and toplight rear. This setup works great so far and I largely forget it's there until the sun goes down and the floodlit road brings a grin to my face.

I paired the hub with a Kinlin XR31T rim, which is nicer than the Archetype in my opinion (have built with both).

I have a brand new XR31T offset drilled 32h of those rims you like... for someone else perhaps.. :)

I got XT + BM budget setup on my beater. Love it.

Then splash on a exposure Dynamo front light and a sinewave revolution USB port. And a son Dynamo. Best you can throw money at and you won't be disappoint.

Is this still a good set up or has anything new come out since you posted this?

Igaro D1 is the only thing you could consider, that would be instead of the SineWave. There's info here about it, and in the dynamo lights thread. @acharnley is the man involved with its development.

This is helpful, thanks!

Right, I've set up a few dynamo setups over the past few weeks and It's time. I've built (I think) all, but not personally used.
SON I really don't like much.
I quite like the combo of Supernova/SP.
Is there a point to it, or will a Shimano/B&M be just as good.

depends on how much you want to spend, supernova sp, will i think work out more expensive than the equivalent shimano/b&m.

Rose bikes have some good deals on shimano/B&M to make it even more affordable..

(Apologies for edit, autocorrect and hitting reply without doublechecking is not a good look)

My Shimano rocks.

Completely submerged it in a ford / mud at the weekend (as well as my lowrider bags thankfully with dry liners inside). Seems fine.

I can't imagine anything my Alfine dynohub could do better.

It hold
My spokes in place, it spins around axle, it has a rotor attached to the side and it makes electricity. I'm not too fussed how much it weighs or how many watts of energy it uses though.

SP hub for a mountain bike - bad idea? I know someone on here had a problem with one after going through a ford.

I think that was me.

I put the reconditioned unit back in some wheels that will be going on the mtb when I get some more tubeless tape :)

How was dealing with them to get the bearings replaced? It sounds fairly painless in theory, other than rebuilding the wheel.

Javier did that. He uses a SON now but I wonder if he's tested the SON in the same fashion yet to compare.

Fine. Disassembled wheel, LBS sent hub back to Ison, there was a little delay as it was over Christmas/between deliveries with SP etc. but after a few weeks a reconditioned hub turned up and was ready to build.

Normally Ison have stock of reconditions hubs for warranty so I was just a little unlucky there.

Can you not send them a whole wheel?

Don't know.

I was swapping out the rim when LBS noticed issues with the hub.

Thinking about dynamo light/hub set up, and trying to visualise how its going to look.

Rough outline -

SON 28 Delux hub or SP PD8X
Wires come out, run up the fork, into the
Igaro D1, which sits on the underside of the stem.

A female usb cable then come outs on that, into which goes anything from

phone charging cable
light power cable
garmin charging cable

connected to their various respective devices.

During the day, I will charge my phone and my garmin. At night, I'll power the light.

Is that basically right? Are there any hiccups I should expect? Will the hub be able to charge/power the light at climbing speeds?

Alfine or SP hub? I just want to light shit up.

Shimano DH-3D80/DH-T785. They're the same inards and better than the Alfine (which is a rebranded DH-3D72). Perfect for commuting duties.

Much obliged! Bye bye batteries.

Is that basically right?

The light power cable will go to your light before it goes to the Igaro - you need a splitter or to put two sets of wires into the dynamo clip. Do you have a long enough stem to run cables out of? Do you have anything else on the stem?

Will the hub be able to charge/power the light at climbing speeds?

Yes, no, maybe.

My Dynamo doesn't even power my light at climbing speed. It's a problem with the rider, not the setup.

Are you using a battery powered light that you'll charge from the USB, or a dedicated light that will run directly from the hub? If the latter then do as @hippy says, run them both in parallel (ie both the positives leads go together onto the hub, and both the negative leads together). You want the igaro to receive the full well from the hub when the light is off, which you cannot do if they're wired in series.

Are you using a battery powered light that you'll charge from the USB

That's cray cray. Just buy a dyno light and supplement with battery light, USB battery pack if necessary.