Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Sorry if this has been covered but does anyone know which hubs the "spline" dt hubs that come on the DT wheels are e.g. DT Swiss R 32 SPLINE, just that if they are DT 350s then buying factory wheels might get me what I want quicker cheaper like..

The hubs are not directly comparable with any of their separate hub models, although they obviously share some parts and a general design philosophy.

Right then, thanks @mdcc_tester

R32 hubs use conventional pawls in the freewheel, 350 hubs use DT's tarty ratchet

It's actually pretty cool that they have all that info on thier website, however I'm not sure how they managed to get the following into the copy without some one raising an eyebrow "high-precision assembly guarantee perfect rolling performance; every bit of the rider’s energy is transformed into forward momentum"

People vote on bullshit #douevetrump

morning.
after the advice sought here I built up archetype rims 28r 24f with Sapim Race Double Butted 14/16G spokes with dura ace hubs, also bought a parks tension meter. Anyway I'm happy with the front with a deflection score of 20 (dose make the tension 94 as the spokes are 1.8mm?)
I'm more concerned with the rear wheel which has drive side spokes which as a deflection score of 25 (tension 167) and non drive side deflection 20 (tension 94)
the none drive spokes fell like they need more tension while the drive side feel maxed out, the dish is already pulled to the non drive side by 1mm and on a very short test drive they pinged.
could I ask if I'm reading the chart correctly and the tension is what you would expect?

edit novice builder second attempt at wheel building

25 on the park meter for sapim race is about right. The park guage over reads. so tension is about 1300N maybe a shade more. If the dish is good and tensions even they are good to go. Make sure you stress relieve fully. Really squeeze pairs of spokes until your hand really hurt. Then place the hub axle on a block of wood and push down on the rim a few times (spin the wheel in between so you load it in different places then flip it and repeat). Then put it back in the jig and see how true it is. If you have stress relieved properly the wheel will not budge. This trick however requires a stiff wheel. If you are building with a shallow rim just squeeze the spokes and placing on a block of wood and pushing is a bad idea.

A fully stress relieved wheel will not ping on the first ride or the second. If it does you have not stress relieved properly. It is now though.

For rims the stiffest is the Kinlin XR31T and there is an offset disc brake version now.

DT Swiss RR511 is stiff but not offset more expensive and require funny nipples and nipple washers.

Pacenti SL25 is a decent rim but not offset. Otherwise I can find nothing wrong with it.

Velocity Aileron is pricey but my set have been pretty good. I have killed two rear rims though one down some steps and one in a pot hole.

DT Swiss R460 DB is nice and cheap and so is the Kinlin XR22 RTS OCR (catchy name hey0 disc brake rim. this is offset same price as the DT R460 and nicer to build with (rounder and flatter).

The archetype though is indistructable available in 36H drilling but then you are limited to mostly shimano MTB hubs like the venerable XT M756. that would be a sturdy wheel just not a light one.

Thanks!

Offset? You mean what Velocity and others used to do by drilling spoke holes on the rear off-centred to cope with the dishing?

The DT Swiss are still my favourites. Those Aileron look nice too.

@scherrit did ask if I wanted 32h or 36h rear. I said I'm undecided but 32h has more choice and I've not broken any wheels (I'm not counting wearing them out) no matter what spoke count. Oh, actually that's a lie. I totalled an MTB wheel when touring Europe in 2005. That was a cheap wheel and a shop over-tensioned the spokes I'm sure.

Got to factor in the extra luggage I'll be carrying and the 'interesting' roads I might find myself on. Maybe a 36h is a better idea?

Are there any rear hubs that suit CenterLock discs? Those XTs you mention seem only 6-bolt.

Yes! XT M785 http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-xt-m785-centre-lock-qr-rear-hub/

Sounds even better:

Features
Tubeless ready - tight tolerances require the use of a low profile rim tape like Velotape to avoid tyre installation issues.

Which is tubeless ready? I'm prepared to test it but not if it compromises my normal clincher/tube setup.

STW fight between Hope and Shimmy Shimmy Yeah:
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/hubs-hubs-hubs-best-choice-for-function-amp-value-xt-vs-pro-ii-vs-xtr

Other than an cost an extra £100 what do XTR do over XT?

"£100 buys a lot of grease, bearings and above all, BEER. I'd go for the XTs."

Do Shimano do any sealed-bearing disc hubs?

Shimano only do cup and cone

Quite a few are tubeless ready.

1 Attachment

xtr:
Ball bearing races are ground with Cubic Boron Nitride
titanium freehub

so weight-weenie things...

EDIT: XT also has Cubic Boron Nitride ground races, but XTR has some special thing done to the cups as well. So (theoretical) faster rolling...

The other point was my point. They are all tubeless ready.

Thanks

Hmm, on one hand I don't mind this so much because I could maintain them but then I think about my life and "maintain them?!?! ahahahaha" springs to mind. Not sure if Hope do CenterLock and they're noisy and I like Shimano stuff. Hmm.

Any idea how tough the ti freehub is?

What's the final weight difference?

I think XT is most likely. I'm already at £2k without wheels or powermeter on this build.

Ok, so I could do some events with tubeless and see how it all goes. Thanks.

Thanks!

Yep. I don't think it will be a factor in choosing but it might be nice to try the system out and see how good/bad it actually is for my mechanically frustrated self.

Does it make normal clinchers harder to fit - being tubeless ready?

Any idea how tough the ti freehub is?

No :)
Seems to be 330g vs 270g for whole hub

I'd rather hang onto the £100 I think.

yes xtr is only worth it second hand / old models

Off set rims have the holes drilled offcentre to one side. This increases the low side spoke tension leading to a longer lived wheel.

If you are looking a 10 speed hubs the Shimano XTR as good as they get. The old M950 hubs are ace but not disc brake. The M965 are pretty sweet. XTR hubs are like dura ace hubs they go on and on. XT hubs are like 105 hubs they work well but not for as long as XTR hubs. DT swiss 350 hub are very good and I would probably pick those as you can put 11 speed on these too unless you plan to use a 11 speed MTB cassette on Shimano MTB hubs.

If you use triple butted spokes like DT Swiss alpine III you wont need a 36H rim/hub.

The ideal spec I think is 32H Kinlin XR31 RTS OCR rims laced to DT Swiss 350 CL or Shimano XT M8000/M785 or the XTR M985/9000 hubs with DT swiss Alpine III spokes (or spaim force if you can get them). that would be on the robust side of robust.