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• #502
You could just make a little cover to put over it if its really an issue? I just leave mine (different light, same issue) it only takes a couple of minutes to switch off.
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• #503
Nope. Should have come with the hub. Well, certainly did with my SV-9.
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• #504
"thru-axles tie the fork or frame together in a much stronger, stiffer way"
I've been looking at the QR vs Thru Axle for months before buying a frame... was a main splitter between the options available as a frameset:
I've asked framebuilders: Arregui Velazquez and Perucha, and they just talked about "a well done fork with a good quick release will always stay in the same spot". But sounded to me like "I just trust the traditional way, thru axles are for hipsters"
I've asked frame designers (Dom Mason from Mason Cycles and Bruce Dalton from KinesisUK), and the both responses was a mixed "It's really not necessary & the standards for thru-axle are still settling down". Didn't convince me too much because of the second part sounded like "I don't want to use it because my parts may end up trapped with a deprecated measure"
I've tried discs with QR on a full carbon frameset (Giant Avail, yes a small size for me) and couldn't get it to squeak even doing some cross-country with it (don't tell my girlfriend!) and trying to flex the fork in tight corners. But still was just a ride in the park.. not my usual long ride.
I've tried thru axle in a Cube and couldn't feel anything different on a bumpy road (not my first thru-axle... I've been riding a Salsa DosNiner with a RockShox Reba 20mm axle for the last 4 years). That was my only reason for QR... I've enjoyed a lot my 29er fork, but it's a different riding surface.
I've talked to other mates that ride really hard climbs/descents in Asturias with Cannondale and BMC disc models, and no problems reported. Although they use 140mm rotors (but weight 1/3 less than me), so took the advice as a partial win for QR.
So what I finally took the QR option to not complicate myself yet with one thru-axle standard. But bought a wheelset with hubs that could be adapted in the future ( front: QR or 15mm, rear: QR or 12mm). I'll be a fork away to fix the problem if my Kinesis Racelight 4S Disc gives me any problem.
PS: Also you can ask Josh Ibbett about his last year TCR with QR on a Mason Definition, many others riders got QR with discs as well, and I haven't found a problem report about it
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• #505
Yeah I've considered that too. Problem is its an odd shape for any cover to attatch to.
I suspected it was the same issue with other lights. Oh well. Thanks.
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• #506
tl;dr Early adopter talk
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• #508
@hippy that should settle it for you... Jesse (#1 in last TransAm) used a SP SD-8 hub (QR) http://www.curvecycling.com.au/blogs/news/35160261-jesse-carlssons-curve-belgie-disc-and-pack-list-for-trans-am-bike-race
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• #509
early adopter of discs that is
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• #510
So, although most of these users weigh about as much as my left thigh, I probably shouldn't lose any sleep over thru-axles. On the flip side though, I still need to make sure whatever frame I buy, can run the wheels I need, which in my case is 32h 11spd rear disc + dynamo disc. I'm struggling to get all these parts to match up. I want hubs and rims that use standard J-bend spokes, nothing weird.
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• #512
I was planning on getting a SON dynamo which could be either 15mm thru or QR.
If I got one of these QR dynamos, could I use it with 12mm or 15mm thru-axle forks - with some kind of adapter?
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• #513
He won though, so that lets me negate one horrible fact about his setup. :)
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• #514
He also used conti tyres which means @Hippy wont listen to anything about kit he has to say
I think you're mistaken about that, this article says Schwalbe One tubeless...
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• #515
B&M toplight line brake plus has a capacitor-flush button to discharge. This is the droid you are looking for. I've found it useful when on railway platforms ... trains staff DO NOT like random red lights around.
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• #516
Also re: QR v Thru
Thru axles are just a new kind of QR, right? Why make wheels so easy to remove anyway? Give me a bolt-on solid axle any day. No doubt just as rigid as this New Skewer That Requires Special New Ends.
If SON did a solid axle I'd have gone for that.
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• #517
I imagine the basic Topline light also has the flush button, if for some reason a totally dorkrad 'brakelight' is too dorky*.
*you're in the wrong thread maybe.
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• #518
Could anyone recommend a frame mount for the topline rack light?
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• #519
I've not seen any. Why ever wouldn't you want a rack anyway?
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• #520
He was referring to Jesse in TransAm not TCR.
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• #521
I have used electrical tape and cable ties on my cross check and it works a treat.
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• #522
You should mail them if you wan't to get a 12mm instead of a 15mm hub. I'm pretty sure it can be done
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• #523
Thanks. Totally missed this reply. Much appreciated.
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• #524
Mounting
The Toplight Line Plus has a wide rectangular format and fits pannier racks with 50mm bolt holes as standard. However, I was able to mount it on my seatpost effortlessly, using a cheap seatpost reflector mount (free scrounge from the local bike shop) and a strip of plastic cut from an old tupperware box:
http://mccraw.co.uk/toplight-line-plus-review/ -
• #525
So I finally fitted the rear light on my GFs commutter. Its one of these:
http://www.axasecurity.com/bike-security/en-gb/products/lights/rear-dynamo/axa-go-steady/
Has a stand light and is bright enough, so win. Only problem is once the stand light is on you can't turn it off.
She parks her bike near St Pauls (on the street) and has to leave the bike there (no space or facilities in office). With the red light blazing it looks a bit inviting to thieves. It didn't cost much granted but it'd be an inconvenience.
I'm considering wiring in a switch that will break the capacitor-to-LED circuit but worried about potential to allow water into the unit. Plus I can't be arsed, its all metal strip connections, no nice wires or PCBs to solder to.
Is there a better solution?
Shall I just ditch it and get another? Can anyone recommend a rear where the stand light can be turned off when parked? Her front light has this facility and the rear runs off this but the switch doesn't do anything to the rear light (as the capacitor is already charged).