Which Groupset?

hence the words 'phased out'

So I put the 1 x 10 chainring on today - totally awesome. Lightens up the bike and seems to be totally solid even without a clutch mech.

Note on that front - absoluteblack advise that you adjust the tension on a shimano road mechs by slotting the spring to a different hole, be aware with 5700 mechs (Medium at least) there is no second hole so save yourself the horror of taking the off the spring clip!

Just spotted this yesterday, perfect for shimano 1x setups.
Would be hell to find I'm sure.

Add: it's BR-S705-L quick Google found jenson sells only the brake levers. And fat birds sells only the set.

1 Attachment

I don't think these work with regular mechs. Gear hubs only

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=51444;menu=1000,4,41

TBF Hood shape is very different to a mechanical shifter

According to the E-Tube project compatability chart the Alfine levers will work with either Ultegra or Dura Ace e-tube Di2 mechs.

Hmm, you just reminded me that I'll want sprint shifters on the new bike. That'll be interesting.

Found this - I'm better junction box in the bar, through the hole they've drilled, thoughts?

https://www.instagram.com/p/oRDQ6tA3dg/

Referring more on the brake lever only.
But yes the hood is more similar to the di2 lever.

Ultegra 6800 chainrings - it would appear that the best deal I can find on them is ~£20 less than simply buying an entire crankset, which strikes me as being a better proposition, value wise.

Anyone know a source of cheap rings before I pull the trigger?

I haven't been able to find any. That outer ring is incredibly expensive.

^^ €80 in Deutschland ist teuer?

Van Eyck in Belgium has entire 6800 groups for 500 euro and chainrings for 95

Bike Discount have stopped mechanical groups?

http://www.bike-discount.de/en/shop/gearshift-groups-392/l-24

Sram X9 10 speed rear mech .. are there 2 versions? one with cage lock and one without?

if by cage lock you mean clutch, yeah, sram call it type 2 or type 2.1

hmm whats the best way to get a rear wheel out with ultra high tensioned rear mech like the X9 without cage lock then?

Wait, so yours is a clutch? because every Sram clutch mech I've seen has a cage lock (the little bit that has a lock sign on)

Either way, generally I find the best way is punch it...
Loosen the QR/Take out thru-axle
Make sure brake QR is open
Lift rear of bike from the saddle
Punch top of rear wheel whilst holding the bike in the air

Just got the new Tiagra 4700 rear derailleur. Noticed that contrary to the specs on the website I bought it from the max sprocket size is listed as 28 Tooth rather than 30. The tech docs back that up as well: http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components11/road/Tiagra4700/rd-4700-ss.html

Am I going to run into trouble with a 30T sprocket, or is there likely enough wiggle room to get away with it? Feeling lazy so don't want to return it and get the long cage version.

AFAIK It's very unwise to use a cassette that has a bigger range than your derailleur is intended for. Explosions and shit, yo

you could be okay .. play around with B tension and limit screw .. or this: http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/small-components/products/roadlink

It very much depends upon your frame geometry. The combination you have may work on another frame and not yours.
If you get the chain length correct i.e. it is long enough, the worse that will probably happen is that one of the derailleur jockey wheels will rub on the largest cassette sprocket when in the lowest gear.

I have a bike with a 30t on a short cage 6700, you'll be fine.

But that the one is weighing on the derailleur with all it's might?

You're looking at the shortcage version. The medium cage version can take upto 32t iirc.

But you should get away with a 3ot with the one you've got.