To all you 29er's out there!

I love rehydrating with cider :0)
In other news, I finally cured my annoying fucking CLICK-CLICK that started emanating from my spearfish after about 30 miles....I've replaced the bottom bracket twice, all the pivot bearings, the DU bushings in the shock mounts, the chainring bolts, even my fucking pedals.....when cleaning it, I noticed a bit of lateral movement in the shock mounting hard wear.....looks like they sent me a 22mm kit instead of a 22.2.....my LBS in waltham abbey had a root through the spares box and came up with a TFTuned heavy duty kit and popped it in.... Et voila! £15 buys me no more click :0)

And......relax

my LBS in waltham abbey

There's a bike shop in Waltham Abbey?!!

Yep, Stanley bridge cycles......decent fella called Dan runs it. They sell the usual BSO's, as well as some good brands.....my mum lives there, so I pop in when I ride down. I picked up some tubeless valves for the stache while there too :0)

For anyone who owns a set of Easton Haven wheels, I thought I'd post this little 'how to' if you ever get your front wheel end cap stuck on, before stripping the 5mm Allen key heads in them, and not being able to access the knackered bearings....

1. Get very frustrated, and think that they're fucked.
   
2. Spend several hours, working on diminishing amounts of soft cheese like metal, to no avail.
   
3. Hacksaw the fuckers off.
   
4. Spend £50 on 3 replacement bits that weigh fuck all.
   

Selling my 29+ front end bits (Kris Holme Freeride rim, Knard and tube and Krampus forks with anything mounts) in classifieds and have now added pics and measurements of the fork.

http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/275728/

i need a bit of help, i'm after a rear wheel that's 135mm spaced and has a 6 bolt disc mounts for as cheap as possible. Annoyingly all the cheap shimano wheels seem to use their own disc ting so i can't use one of them. Anyone got any suggestion?

Get the cheap Shimano wheel and a CL t0 6bolt adapter?http://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-6-bolt-rotor-to-centre-lock-hub-disc-adapter-45223.html

There are two Shimano CL→IS adaptors, SM-RTAD05 for hubs with big axles and SM-RTAD10 for skinny axles. Same spline, just different lock ring tool interface to clear the big axle. The Service instructions for the 10 show it being optionally used with the bigger lock ring which comes with the through-axle hubs, so it doesn't seem like there's a good reason you couldn't use the small lockring with the nicer and considerably cheaper 05 adaptor. Other adaptors are available, e.g. Superstar. The other option is just get a centrelock rotor, which may be cheaper than an adaptor

I want the 6 bolts so i can use the wheel fixed so i'm pretty sure an adapter wont work? Will it just undo ?

At a punt I'd imagine the splined interface is tight enough to not transfer too much through the lock ring. Spot of threadlock and it would be OK...?

use the wheel fixed

The lock rings are serrated, I don't think they'll come undone very easily.

Alternatively:

1 Attachment

Go on and make some of these already, so people can throw money your way.

I love the idea of this.

Go on and make some of these already

I have a CL→IS adaptor, need a cheap CL wheel to experiment with before going anywhere near the question of making CL sprockets. I have a feeling the man with all the broaches won't have the CL broach as the combination of diameter and tooth count doesn't seem to occur in any of the usual industrial standards, so that would probably be the death of the idea as getting a broach of my own would be a couple of grand.

Solaris on top of a hill in Norway. Wishing its owner had more ballz

Is an A319 rim too narrow for a 29er? Its for a Singular Swift which will be built up a bit more for gravel/toepath than proper off road (although it'll see the rare bit of thick mud and rocks).

Says it can fit a 47mm rim so I'm sure a bit bigger would work too. Plus I can switch to a more roadie guise if needs be.

Bit new to 29ering so not sure.

Wider is better, but you won't die

Something 21mm internal width will work better with fat tyres and will still be good for a more road oriented use with 28C tyres.

Thanks I was thinking it might be too skinny. Oh well.

Any rim recommendations? I tend to favour strength over weight (but not to an extreme - I weigh 14 stone but don't exactly do great big drops or anything, wheels mostly on the ground at all times).

Possibly worth getting something tubeless or tubeless friendly. Bit of a n00b with that but I have done it on a customer's bike before.

I'm not a fan of anything with straight pull spokes or propriety systems (Crank Bros Cobalt, Mavic weird fat spokes etc...) regular alloy (eyeletted!) rims with standard j bend spokes ftw.

Mavic & Sun Ringle both make good value rims with 21-23mm internal width. WTB make some decent ones at various budgets in 23-25mm. If you want to spend more, then there's Stans, or the new Easton ARC rims.

Thanks. I'll have a look about online.

Velocity make some quiet decent mtb rims. The blunt series is actually a good rim. I have a set of blunt sl rims which are for exactly what you want to use the bike for.

I'd recommend Ryde Trace rims. I've built with many of them and they're excellent. They are offset which is very useful for evening out spoke tensions and for building stronger 29er wheels. They come in three internal width options: 28.8mm, 24.8mm, and 20.8mm.

http://www.chickencycles.co.uk/index.php?cat=19&sub=31

Possibly worth getting something tubeless

Mavic EN821 would be my choice, being the only proper tubeless rim you can actually buy in 29". If you didn't want tubeless but just an excellent 21-622 disc brake rim, I'd suggest Mavic EN821 :-)

Thanks I was considering those (ideally to Hope).

Only thing is funds are running low so to get me going I'm going to get some cheap wheels. Found some from a Boardman CX Pro (awful formula hubs to Mavic A319). £55, brand new (1 mile of use apparently), which is great considering I'd pay near that for the rims anyway. They've only got to last 6 months or so of light use, then I've got a backup set of wheels too or rebuild the rims to something better.

Just need to double check they're 135mm, not 130mm. I'm guessing they must be 135?

Just need to double check they're 135mm, not 130mm. I'm guessing they must be 135?

More than likely to be 135, yes.