Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I meant a rotor that is 2cm bigger... Rather than a literal 2cm gap! (Which would require a far bigger than 203mm rotor due to squaring a circle)

That would involve looking closley at parts and clearly I don't do that or would have noticed something was up! :)

@moog, cool, guess I'd better use it for what I bought it for first! :)

Yarp. Thought I'd try something different, and if the mud buggers them at least I can quickly swap in a cable pull brake. And use some SRAM Red ten speed shifters I have kicking around

but if there's any advantage of 160 over 180 I'd like to hear it (other than tiny bit of weight saving)? I assume 180 for better stopping power?

Lighter, less inclined to warp. Yes, 180 will stop you quicker.

Centerlock hubs or 6 bolt? Any reason to steer clear of one or the other?

6-bolt discs are cheap. Centrelock discs are quick to change.

I've only ever actually seen CL hubs by Shimano and DT.

Exactly as @Emyr said, bear in mind that the nice Shimano finned disc rotor are only in centerlock.

Centrelock requires a special tool to remove and replace whereas six bolt can be removed with a basic multi-tool.

Isnt it the same as a cassette tool?

Yes - and there's an oversize version too that uses the new bb tool iirc.

Point is the cassette tool - and the wrench you need to use it - is not on your multi-tool :)

It is, not exactly special to be quite frank.

is not on your multi-tool :)

Torx however...

The torx required for every six bolt install I've seen is on every multi-tool I've bought. And even if it isn't, a small torx key, weighing grams, can be used whereas centrelock requires both a mid sized wrench and the correct tool, of which there is now two. Not exactly travelling / roadside friendly.

My Juin tech have arrived at my LBS

Quote from them:

"Brakes have arrived - they have comedy instructions but look well made :)"

I'm interested to see how they are filled and bled, and whether they have self adjustment

don't think they self adjust but I could be wrong.

Is there a hydraulic caliper that does not self adjusted?

I was under the impression only open hydraulic systems auto-adjust, closed ones tend to have a big adjustment dial/knob on the lever.

Ah auto adjusted, got that mixed with auto align.

Ooh, less inclined to warp... For polo that might be more important than a 1cm's more stopping force... Hmm...

@danb

Of course if you can't decide you can get centre lock to 6 bolt converters, but I don't think the other way is easy to find (if exists at all), so get centre lock and a converter...

@Emyr, aren't the shimano centre lock hubs pretty cheap too?

@Emyr, aren't the shimano centre lock hubs pretty cheap too?

Sure, and they're all (afaik) servicable, adjustable loose-bearing hubs. Last polo wheelset I built used a Deore CL front hub.

Just a shame they don't have an affordable SS option for 135mm OLD (DXR freehub transplant isn't, because it's a crazy expensive freehub and it only fits expensive hub shells)

Auto-centering.

You still need the pads to be parallel with the rotor on all the designs I'm familiar with.

Auto centering, that's the badger.

Easy to mix those two up.

Slightly OT but does anyone know of a long pull single speed lever with a more modern hood shape?

Something like the Sram 500

These arrived