Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Cool, now you can fit them onto your.......

....erm, never mind.

No other options apart from Tektro and Cane Creek; the latter is modern-er ..

Also if you are in hurry I have some compression-less housing you can have for a fiver .. in SW London.

White Industries too.

Both those levers are most likely made in the same factory. The guts/lever etc are identical, the only difference is CC has textured hoods and their name plastered all over the lever blade.

This very much, the hood simply make it appear more expensive but underneath it's exactly the same.

Bit annoying you can't get the Tektro version anymore as I much prefer their gum hood better.

Tektro RL520 are still available...

Got confused with this.

thanks for the offer but I put the new stem on and the cables are just about long enough as they are.

I'll have a closer look at tektro levers. I think that's what I have at the moment but the hood shape is quite slim and they aren't that comfortable.

Most likely, I used the Tektro for a a while and came to the same conclusion. Couldn't find a better option, thankfully ended up with a new frame and the chance to swap brakes and use the levers in Ed's post above.

Finally got a proper shot on a new canyon promoter thing with 11s 105/ultegra hydro discs.

They're great! Genuine one finger braking on a road bike with excellent modulation.

Any recommendations for a 160mm 6 bolt disc for mainly riding on the road?

Mine are both warped and are the standard cable discs that came on the bike (All city macho man disc).

Whatever's cheap... @Emyr posted a good list the other day...

In the polo buying thread.

cheers

Hood too slim? Sugru.

Does anyone else have a issues using qr and disk brakes?
I just can't set them right after wheel removal.
Anyone got any tips?
Trp hyrd are very nice to use

Hold brake on while tightening qr lever seems to help me in maintaining alignment on wheel installation

Does anyone else have a issues using qr and disk brakes?

Yes

I just can't set them right after wheel removal.

But not this.

Are you grabbing/holding the brake while fitting the wheel at all? Are we talking front or rear?

It is the front wheel

Are you grabbing/holding the brake while fitting the wheel at all?

Nope
Should I be doing that

If you don't as you do the final 'tighten' of the quick release by closing the lever it seems (for me) to slightly skew the wheel/rotor from where you lined it up to. I tend to tighten most of the way with rotor aligned by eye, then hold the brake on and while still holding the brake lever close the qr lever. This seems to stop the wheel twisting and gets you a (hopefully) nicely aligned wheel and rotor. Sometimes takes a couple of goes. I imagine this is why thru axle is popular/may take over as (as I understand it) it solves these axle alignment issues.

For BB7, just grabbing your brakes should work but it does not really align the caliper and rotor as the inner pad is static and not both pads are actuated (especially when there's a noticeable gap between the rotor and inner pad (bad installation, lack of upkeep from wear)).

I always go for the full re-alignment after reinstalling my wheel - tighten both pads, loosen the bolts which hold the caliper to the bracket then redo the bolts and adjust the pads. Only takes 2 minutes once you get used to it.

I thought the TRP Hy/Rd used hydraulic pistons on both sides of the caliper, so both pads move? I can't think of a single hydraulic or hybrid cable/hydraulic caliper which uses a static inner pad.

Sorry, I should clarify that I use BB7 and didn't notice omash's reference to Hy/Rd at the bottom of his post. Amended now.