• @Carabo the plan is to do one side and then create a sort of jig (basically a piece of wood that would be shaped to exactly fit the end dropout bit - ie where the axle would go) that will indicate where exactly the other end should go. Without very precise measuring equipment and machinery, the only way to do this is to be exact in relation of one side to the other, rather than trying to measure it in some sort of objective way. I'll admit it's risky but even if it is slightly wrong, there is a bit of latitude, though obviously I have to be sure that everything is very strongly in place.

    @FredyCro I will probably either use a recessed nut or tap the holes in the track ends. Anyone have experience of whether a tapped hole is likely to be secure enough, or if it would need some sort of locknut or flange. Just don't want the vibrations from riding to gradually loosen the bolts, but not sure how likely that is...

    @young_gun @HHC - I know you're only here for the gussets, but that will have to wait, but for your entertainment, here is the illustrated plan (red lines for thin webbing with filler, yellow lines for thicker 3-d gussets with foam and fibreglass):


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    • GT-cropped.jpg
  • Ha yes, sorry i would have commented but was away.

    Looks cool what you've done with the end. Didn't expect it to happen so quickly. Hope it works. what are you planing to do with the brake cable bosses?

    the plans for the gussets are noice. Yeah i wouldn't go for the chainstay gussets either for much the same reason.

    regarding the attachment of the ends i would go for a threaded end. Countersinking, as @trunkie said, sounds risky due tot he loss of material and the joint to the end with the stays is probably somewhere where you wouldn't really want that considering the stress (I think) it would be under.

    @santino I thought the cost for changing dropouts/ends was much higher, obviously dependant on the builder, but around the £80 mark.

    And @young_gun , you can never go too far.
    For example:

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