Tubs

I always fold with basetape on basetape, rather than basetape on tread.
like here.
https://plus.google.com/photos/108112939684385339347/albums/5062815666166016337?banner=pwa
everyone's favourite curmudgeon agrees too.
http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tubular-folding.html

never tried basetape on tread, but never had any issues getting the tyre unstuck to itself.

I'm sure there are lots of different ways, I do it the way I do it because it can't stick to itself, and I can shove the whole tub in an Arundel Tubi bag and leave it there until I need it.

Cheers!

If I glue my tubs on first thing tomorrow morning will they be ok to ride on the velodrome at 1pm?

Depends upon the glue. With some it'll be more dangerous than if you did not use any fresh mastik.

Conti alloy tub cement, bit academic now as I glued them on Saturday and didn't ride.

3x vittoria rally tubs; brand new; stretched but never glued; 25c all black
£20

@amey Will take them next week (monday) if you dont mind? PM me so

Keep one for punctures?

no point as I cant use them with the wheels ..

Do all the tubs you mentioned have removable valve core then? @umop3pisdn

Dunno, I don't really use them. But they're very popular, so I assume there's some way of getting them to work with deep rims.

Just use an normal extender?

http://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/p/18747/lezyne-presta-valve-extender-70mm-pair?variantId=88307&gclid=CjwKEAjw0-epBRDOp7f7lOG0zl4SJABxJg9qKJ5ssAjFYvYe-K2ogWmdK9L9Xb1xQIt2vh42R8fpcxoCcZ7w_wcB

Went with these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Challenge-Strada-Tubular-Road-Tyre-Black-700x25c-RRP-70-/221680622568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item339d31dbe8

Hopefully should be ok.

http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/latest-news/new-tubular-cement-vittoria-168669

If the "Magic Mastic" is anything it is at most interesting due to its claimed thermal bandwidth--- claiming to remain stable at up to 120C (that is nearly 250F). Right now the biggest problem with mastic is not its application or even its stability (carbon is such as good insulator) but its bonding power. It is not that the bond is not strong enough but often too strong. This leaves as the "weak link" the bound between the basetape and the tyre. Since this bond is not a tacky bond: once it is broken it is broken. An idea mastic is thin and easily flows but quickly dries to a sticky tacky paste, has a bond that is less strong than the basetape (sacrificial bond) and with a high melting point--- rims can reach 100C. On the track this is never a problem and we also don't need tacky bonds. Here we want less elastic bonds since their tradeoff is higher rolling resistance. On the road we want a min of elasticicity but with still a large degree of tackyness. With Alu rims the glue can get very hot. Increased stability could be nice--- back in the old days people would often glue a thermal insulator between the tyre and rim. Will this new mastic deliver something beyond what I've seen in industrial glues? I doubt it... But lets see....

Is there an easy fix to re-glue the basetape to the tub once it has come off?
Would peeling the basetape completely then using tub tape on a front wheel for example?
(Its an old tub that works and is worth keeping but not too bothered really)

I'm having great difficulty cleaning a carbon tub up. First tried getting the old glue off with white spirit, no effect. Then tried putting new glue over the top, which turned into gloopy bogies. Got some acetone, which did nothing except melt my gloves! Finally I've started manually scraping it off with a plastic dibber thing but it's very slow going and I don't think it'll all come off anyway...

There was a picture on one of the cycling website (Cycling News?) of a mechanic in the Giro using a heat gun to get old mastic off a carbon rim. I've got myself some Goof Off to try on mine, but I haven't got round to using it yet.

pic? I spent a couple of hours each rim the other day with a small flexible blunt screwdriver; best tool there is but requires a lot of patience.

It was similar the old glue was a couple of years old; badly applied; too much and crystallized .. stuff of nightmares.

It's not looking so bad in daylight but there's still an awful lot on there...

5 Attachments

Tub-folding update: base tape to base tape, mastik one, no issues with sticking where it does touch.

Bit of fresh glue in the gap, wait for it to dry, 160 PSI in the tyre? It's the only section that's come away, rest is glued on "proper":

Yes.

I am rebuilding my road wheels, and moving to 2 wheelsets.

1) lightweight, and shallow for climbing. But also with aluminium rims for descending and wet weather.

2) Deep and aero. For flat rides/races, and tri's.

I'm thinking of putting sexy tyres on the aero wheels, and something more robust on the alu ones. The alu chioce is tricky as I want something light yet relatively tough. I'm willing to accept that the sidwalls will be less subtle on a more resiliant tub.

Current thoughts.

Alu:

      - Schwalbe the one, 24mm front/26mm rear.
      - Conti Competition 23mm front/ 25mm rear.
      - Vittora Pave III, 24mm front/27mm rear (should just fit my frame)

The vittoras seem the best option on paper, and according to vittoras italian scales are the lightest.

Carbon aero:

       - Vittora Corsa SC 22mm front/ 25mm rear.
       - Veloflex Extreme front (22mm), Arenberg rear (25mm)
       -  Dugast Strada cotton 22mm front/ 25mm rear.

I'm currently riding a FMB silk comp front (22mm), cotton P-R (25mm) rear. So I'm massively spoilt. The silk was a delivery mistake which I never owned up to (was meant to be a cotton). I really cant budget for FMBs again. But I'm hoping the Dugast will be similar for a bit less cash. I've run the veloflex combo before. They are amazing tyres, but I like to try something new. So dugast are leading here.

Any thoughts? Tubs that Ive missed?

After filling a punctured tub with tufo extreme glue, is it best to keep inflated at pressure until/if it dies again or can you get away with not pumping the wheel up incase of extended non-use?