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• #28
You should should really consider downtube shifters. Dead easy to set up and use, you'll barely be shifting the gears anyway. By far the cheapest and neatest way to go. Also get proper flat bar levers, can be had for cheap but much better than cross tops. Should be fun when finished.
Also interested in carbon forks if 1 inch threadless? -
• #29
I have a black wald basket laying around actually, any interest?
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• #30
ouf! nice project.
These two works good for me! 1x7 is enough! ;)
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• #31
@B0N0R shall measure and let you know. What size is said basket?
Think I'm jus gunna go downtube shifters, at least for the time being.
Maybe these? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Dura-Ace-SL-7700-Down-Tube-Shifters-/131480482986?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e9cd8f4aa
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• #32
@noBlakes
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221742126438?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITwatching these. what I need?
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• #33
These look good, you could even use the crankset and casette you have, you would just need to find the matching brake levers and if you are planing on selling the Ultegra bits it would still leave you with a good budget for a nicer seatpost and carbon risers. IMO it's much nicer to have trigger shifters on the wide risers then using downtube shifters.
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• #34
Yeah that would be the plan.
Think I'll go for it. Are there specific levers that match that I'd need? -
• #35
I think you'd need some v-brake levers with SRAM shifter mounts. Don't know if these exist but wiggle sells SRAM shifter clamp mounts. These would also allow you to go for separate flat bar brake levers for cantilever brakes which should have a more convinient cable pull for a road caliper. This said with some fiddling I always managed to set V-brake levers to work quite good with road calipers, enough modulation and power, but it might be that I was just lucky.
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• #36
Dropppppppppps plllllllllease
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• #37
You'd need the mount's for the shifters, which are a fair bit usually. And you wouldn't need the front mech as it's top pull (I think), plus the Ultegra 6600 one you've currently got on will probably do the job better.
Have a look at these/try and win them, the pair I messaged you went for £10posted so these won't go for much more, they've got the clamps already so you don't need to worry about that.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Sram-X7-Shifters-/331528386997?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d30a1b9b5Then you can choose any old Sram 10 speed rear mech, road or mtb; doeable for a tenner depending on which level you choose. Will be much cheaper than buying that mini group
And like fredycro said, keep the crankset, chain, cassette the same, sell the 6600 shifters and rear mech and you'll make profit.
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• #38
Bollocks didnt get a chance to bid on the other ones.
Will try win them then. And then what levers do I need to use alongside these shifters?
This derailleur work?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sram-X9-Rear-Derailleur-10-Speed-/331528393163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d30a1d1cbSRAM, X0, Force or X9 ?
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• #39
Yeah, all those ones will work, so from the road: apex, rival, force or red, from the mtb: x7, x9, x0, and xx.
I'd aim for a road rear mech though as the placing of the upper pulley on the mtb mechs is slightly different and you're still using it with a road cassette, rival or force can be had cheap.
Levers I don't know too much, but you've got Shimano brakes, so these will probably do the job perfectly and are cheap too
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-tiagra-r550-brake-lever-flat-bars-only/rp-prod34695?gs=1&gclid=CjwKEAjwu72pBRC9hsn2-e34vRUSJACnSYsT4z8JPcROtBaD6kQUPEmmYXi-ihGwGcWCiZAlyEStFBoC55_w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds -
• #40
Sweet I'll go for the force then.
its still at 0.99 with no bids. ends tomorrow. so hopefully will win it cheaps. -
• #41
get flat bar specific caliper levers, trying to get v-brake levers to work with calipers is just annoying and probably wont ever feel as nice. Especially when ones like those r550s are so cheap anyway
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• #42
Gotta say it looks like a beast as is, get down to a cat 4 crit on it and embarrass a bunch of mamils on 2k carbon machines….still looking forward to seeing how it turns out, should be fun and practical
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• #43
Working as a mechanic at an LBS, I'm comfortable in my strong feelings that SRAM's overrated; any sort of hard riding and you're bound to find you rear mech worn out/bent within a year's time at best, or tangled up in your spokes at worst (despite proper limit screw adjustments).
I'd personally go with an 8/9 spd Dura Ace/XTR rear derailleur over SRAM any day. Compatible flatbar shifters are easy to come by and Shift performance will be oodles better too if you go the extra mile to get a matching shimano cassette and chain.
SRAM makes amazingly light components, but they sacrifice a great deal of durability to achieve that goal in my experience.
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• #44
Simplest way is surely just to get mtb derailleurs and shifters? Will cost pennies
Also I ran xt 9 speed shifters and an old 600 rear mech with no compatibility issues.
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• #45
Just about any 7/8/9 spd Shimano rear mechs will have the proper pull ratio to be run as 9 spd; though replacing the pullies with 11t ones may give you better performance.
Only time I've ever heard of issues issues is with older DA (8spd & earlier).
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• #47
B-but then he won't learn nothin'!
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• #48
Good discussion going on here, but then we are back to the fact that the shimano specific road flat bar stuff would work best? Selling STI levers would surely buy him the Tiagra shifters and levers which he could use with the existing deraillers?
Another question for me is, why change the carbon forks (except if you don't trust them with your teeth)? A-head setup allows easier headset service and much wider and cheaper stem and bar choice? -
• #49
Not going to argue with any of what you've pointed out. I find I spend a third more time working on anything SRAM than Shimano. I like it solely for the STI and shifter feel, hence why I run it, and when it does work properly, it's has the best feel personally.
I'll have to think really hard about ever struggling to repair a decent Deore/XT 8/9 speed group.This in my hands? I'd slap a full m952 XTR group on it and ride it to the ground.
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• #50
@FredyCro - Road-specific flat bar shifters refer to the front derailleur as Shimano road and mtb front derailleurs have different pull ratios. The rear shifter for road/mtb will be exactly the same, so why not get something a bit nicer (XT/XTR) second-hand? Maybe even go a step further and build 1x9 drivetrain if mis-matched shifters is an aesthetic issue? There's also the option of Thumbies which can bring a bit of classic class to the build...
@Chak - I'm with you. Despite my misgivings about SRAM's drivetrain bits, the levers fit my hands perfectly and I much prefer the Double-Tap system to STI. The compromise on my current bike was S500 brake levers and 7700 Barends.
Also M952 is the tits! I have the rear mech on the same bike with a 7410 front der.
how long are they?
they are probably too short tbh