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Do it on a Novatec double fixed hub, have done for years. At times i have run double SS freewheels.
Safety element is correct, a shop staffer would not be able to say do it or it can be done for liability issues. So i wouldn't slate mechanics for saying no.
The risk is less thread engagement over using the correct full thread for a SS freewheel.It's well covered already on this thread.
many do it with no issue, you do it at your own risk and risk of damage to hub. -
Turned attention to spare set of wheels.
Rear hub is rough needs new bearings on axel, freehub might be ok.Inflated a set of spikes. Don't know if these are still made.
Tagged as "FRO lite" For Race Only :) for when the track your racing is wet and fresh new line.
Be hard work on the dressed and well worn bike park tracks. -
@lookitsluke yep seals are good. I used to smear 10wt oil over seals after cleaning and for storing.
At worst the info I am using is wrong and I have now overfilled, this will cause a limit in fork travel, so just remove equal amounts of oil to bring travel back.
Old school tuning, oil height and weight and low pressure air assist. ideally I hit the magic oil volume that stops travel a few mm before bottom out thus never having a mechcanical metal on metal violent bottom out, the rear shock has a dense rubber bump stop limiter, forks do not.Mostly been pulling pedals apart.
Dmr V8's are easy and just pump loads of grease through as no play on bearings.
The V12 mags are easy to pull apart, not worth the cost of a rebuild kit as bearings good but Bushes worn, if I can find some new bushes it might be worth swapping them out. One pedal cage damaged from rock strike and torn out pins.
Deep cleaning, packed with grease and ready for more hits :) -
Right leg same again.
Had 170cc of dirty oil out of each leg which is good as both legs equal and bad as the notes I have start at 190cc for 55-80kg and 195cc for 80kg upward riders.
Had a quick flush with 50cc of clean then topped up with 190cc in both legs.
I have about 20ml oil left from the 500 I got, so can add more if needed which I doubt if both have been running a 170.Now have a base line to start with.
All waste oil collected and transferred to a gallon oil container to take to the tip.
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A poke about and freshen up for the fork.
7.5wt Oil.
Accurate measure.
Big spanner.
Cassette lock ring tool.
Fork manual.
Blue roll.Going to whip off the top caps one at a time. Drain a leg of oil, and a spring and spacer should drop out.
I think there is too much oil already so see what colour and how much comes out.
Then add fresh oil at the lower amount as it's easier to add more than remove small amount.Fork against radiator at the moment as warmer oil flows easier.
Not doing a full tear down as manual not printed out and might need a special socket to remove foot nuts. As these forks are fairly basic inside there is nothing to play with as compression is fixed and not a tuneable shim stack that user serviceable.
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Watched many vids :)
At the moment the reality check can be summed up by this one.
I would be happy up to drop 6 which is a gap/drop not rollable. I would have to stop and have a look, although the video looks like a low speed run in so not a big gap to clear. Biggest issue is the mental block in the head..... Takes a very long time to bounce back now days if you crash land.
The big air stuff.... no thanks :)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH8RHg4X7hU
Think i have found all old notes now. Need some paper to print off Fork service manuals from PDF's.
Been sat looking at bike and other MY06/08 specs. Have a random 35lb note next to the 2006 bike which came in at a much higher price with a 66VF fork and single ring set up.
Strangely the 07 Sram X9 rear mech is 221g i have a Tiagra mid cage as well at 280, you would think a 105 short cage would be lighter but thats 229g.
Got an old hope seat clamp that would knock off another 25g if it fits (should do) then stem spacers, maybe some weight off a seat post but not much unless i go to a very short Park only post. do have a very light 400mm WTB XC post but don't really want to chop that as it may be handy in the future to have a long&light 30.9 post.
I reckon it will end up in the 37-38lb area which is allright for a fun bike with this much coil sprung travel.Really should start watching Welsh park videos over Canada :)
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got a 2004 catalogue here (and 06 07 08 too) with big hit specs :)
Would have to research to check, i think the 24" was a quirk of the suspension design and not enough space for a 26" wheel and tyre. BETD used to make conversion kits for the linkage or was it just the old enduros...
At the time an advanced design with adjustable height and geo and leverage ratios by moving the shock mounts. Lobbed a few onto uplift trucks, made sure i wasn't in the queue behind a big hitter as they where hefty.
Kinda a Sam Pilgram bike in that it could be fixed with a brick hammer and threaded rod from B&Q :) -
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suspect you have watched many vids.
this is 2 years old and the current spec has improved over this one.
and if Jonesy thinks something is shite he will point it out or just not review it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ptk3qUDlj_o
and it's getting ragged well in the vid :)
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@psg1ben QR rear wheels. How rad are you getting ?
The current bike i am rebuilding is a 135mm hub with thru axle into QR drop outs. I also use QR skewer hubs and they are fine for warp factor 5 down Fort William.
Most modern frames have switched to 10-12mm thru axle and wider hub designs as this enables the rear subframe to be a bit stiffer when railing turns at speed. At the Evo's price point and sale price you won't get much choice.
Unless your going racing or riding the bike on it's limits then i wouldn't worry. Still loads of choice on QR wheels and hubs for upgrading later or spares or getting a bolt thru.
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Riding track style bikes around Romney Marsh has made me weak.
Only been up and down the road and lactic burn in the legs and a desire to use an inhaler. idontuseinhalers.
What Hippy said about a big hit :) yep, and to think I used to do xc rides looking for off piste action on this monster
Complete rideable bike. Got light 2.35 xc tyres on just to pedal about on for now. Brakes start to squeal when warmed up.
Gears work, need some tuning, might just swap out cable for a longer run.Wondering if my scales are out as coming in around 35.4lbs I was hoping around 34 as using a smaller lighter cassette and mech and dropped a shifter/front mech+cables. Found old notes the Stock bike weight was 39.81lbs so depending on tyres and fine tuning might get down to 38lbs The SX II which had a Fox Vanilla R fork came in at 38.71lbs only a few other spec changes and the biggest weight saving was in the fork, which at the time the heavier Bomber fork was the more reliable choice and getting the cheaper bike was better value, unless you really wanted Vanillas up front.
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Street and Trials have been around way before D-Mac.
Magura HS33 hydro rim brakes pushed things along. If on the cheap it was a case of scuffing the rims with an angle grinder and applying rim tar for maximum grippy brake action.
Was a couple of specialist shops dedicated to it, Billys was one of them.CSB time.
I got wind of a Trials only super sticky continental tyre, and did find them for sale (might have been Billys)
I was chatting with Cambrian Tyres the importer and asked about them, was it a limited production run, why no press or info.Turns out to be quite the story.
A pro rider (never found out who) asked the proto dept for some tyres. They made a stack and sent them to rider. If your a pro rider on Continental then this was doable.
Word went round and Conti UK get enquirys after these tyres. According to conti UK and German HQ they don't exsist you can't buy them because we don't make them.
Uk importer gets the lead about shop selling them, they actually buy a pair to see if they are fake and for evidence.
They where blown away when they got them. If you left them flat on the floor you had to peel them up as very sticky (which equates to short lifespan)
The plot thickens, they have tyres which officially they don't make.
Tyres go to Germany for inspection
The proto dept did it through the back door then the rider flogged them to a shop. Who sold the lot quite quickly. Conti never made them openly (might have changed) i assume someone lost there job over the affair. -
@Howard was that the Dmr Bolt ? or other.
Would go for a Bolt with coil shock :) Duncan Ferris raced DH a few times on one, put the wind up the bike travel bikes by stuffing them :)
The Sturmy Archer and Shimano freewheel i have are 10mm thread depth, and 16-18mm overall thickness.
The Fixed sprockets i have are 6mm thread depth, and around 6.9mm overall thickness.
Your ruler is out if thats the same :)