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Definitely odd.
No doubt you're using the same filament, and you've probably checked the bed always heats uniformly and the Z axis sensor is working correctly? (past problems with my ageing Prusa clone!)
At one time I had issues with a cleaner at work using Pledge - the overspray seemed to go everywhere - but I guess you'd notice that kind of contamination at home.

Scrub with wet baking soda (mainly for it's mild abrasive qualities) - rinse - wipe with spirit vinegar (chemistry) - rinse (distilled water if possible) - clean once more with isopropyl alcohol - if things still don't stick, you'll probably need your other textured plate...

I know several NACC members who have used Villiers in the past - I suspect yours will be smaller than a vintage autocycle hub, but it might be worth giving them a ring?
https://villiersservices.co.uk/product/brake-shoe-re-lining-service/

"Motorcycles first used on or after 1 August 1973 must emit a continuous or uniform sound that is not harsh or grating.
Motorcycles first used before 1 August 1973 can have a bulb horn as the audible warning."
( https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-motorcycles/7-audible-warning )

Having said that, most replica bulb horns will fail the " loud enough to be heard by other road users" requirement. I'd want something reassuringly loud if it came to a roadside conversation with law enforcement, though the pathetic electronic bleat from a Mobylette appears to be sufficient.

Probably yes. While a bulb horn is fine for a cycle motor you'd need something more assertive for a Matchless.
D.C. horn for a battery? My other bikes have A.C. horns powered from the lighting coil - I have in the past bought the wrong type by mistake.
Edit: photo above appeared while I was typing - really you'd want a straight one to avoid water pooling and rusting it through.

Is it registered as a Historic Vehicle? If so you could probably avoid the annual conversation with an MOT tester...
On the one occasion I took my Trojan for an MOT (wanting an official opinion on roadworthiness to support the V5 application) the certificate had "lights not fitted" as an advisory

Likewise. Mostly I use a router bit in a pillar drill with the feed locked - not entirely safe, but I'm more comfortable knowing the tool is fixed to the bench.

Thanks for all the advice @midlife @withered_preacher @Sumo @aggi @hangedup @hugo7 @n3il @ltc - interesting that there is a range of suggestions but no disagreement!
It looks like we'll be heading for Argos in our local centre of civilization for Sony wf c500s later today for MrsE, possibly with an Anker pair via Amazon if the Sonys don't find favour...

Unopened second hand is something I hadn't thought of...

As far as I know, they'll be mainly used at home for music and Duolingo. Noise cancelling hasn't entered the conversation (yet) and it's unlikely that use when jogging or other form of exercise will be a requirement. I think we're looking at £40-£50, so the 'modest' budget now has a value.

Thanks both - we've had a look online and I'm now being told she really wants some sort of earbud device and I don't pay close enough attention. I might buy her a subscription to What HiFi then hide in the shed for a bit.

MrsE has just bought a new phone (Samsung S24 if it makes any difference) and wants to try Bluetooth headphone type things.
Neither of us know anything about them - what should she buy?
Modest budget and available from rural Shropshire are fairly high on the list of priorities...

I haven't (yet) found a paint that covers old chrome and will survive a tyre change without damage. What has worked for me is Kurust followed by silver Rub'n'Buff with an annual savage clean and re-application. Finish looks adequate from a distance though I suspect my '59 Bown is less well preserved than your Honda...

https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/insurance/car-insurance/how-to-get-cheap-car-insurance/#costcut
Admittedly for car insurance, but also applies to motorbikes - I think the assumption (Trick 2) is that renewing weeks ahead you've got time to shop around and might take your business elsewhere, but at the last minute you have fewer options so fair game for increased premiums...

I've also been excluding as much light as possible, including room lighting, but equally problematic is the light box bouncing back from the phone front etc.

I'm convinced that background light can be reflected from the surface of the negative - especially from 'black' areas - possibly reducing the image contrast, and fooling the camera meter.

Keep in mind that my approach is very much a lash-up that owes more to wishful thinking than optical physics.

'Over-engineering' was a term used at work, rarely as a compliment.

I did say "possibly not even a bodge" by way of introduction - offered as an alternative method when superglue doesn't quite hack it?
Soft solder can be made to work with enough flux (cored solder isn't enough) and a 25W iron, but this also fails at the 'field solution' requirement...

Not exactly a field bodge, possibly not even a bodge:
If there's enough length, find a pristine bit of cable and flood it with solder. I use a gas torch and silver solder - some will say this is excessive, but cable coatings often don't play nicely with soft solder.
Cut through the centre of the soldered section with a Dremel cutting disc.
Use a grinding wheel to round off the cut edges for easier insertion.

Is this (or similar)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387043477720
likely to fit a 1950s Singer 99k? or should I be looking for something in Teflon?
I'm experimenting with reclaimed leather and PVC, and the existing foot is dragging more than I would like.
That last sentence isn't going to sound right however I phrase it...

Version 1.2.

The next version will have larger diameter stitch holes, and be half the thickness on the overlapping sections, making it easier to assemble.

Being realistic, leather would probably be a better option (unless vegan) as it could be glued in place before sewing up - I suspect TPU could be glued, but wouldn't hold for long.

@moocher @hugo7 I'll just throw this in as an idea: mostly laser cut stuff is a taken from a layer of material, but there's nothing to stop a 2D shape being 3D printed. Also I haven't had access to a laser since retiring...

A corner reinforcement could be printed as a 3D object, but will be relatively weak across the layers, so avoid possible delamination by printing the whole thing as a flat piece in a flexible material such as TPU.

Pictures are probably more informative than words - V shaped channels define the folds - I'm fairly sure a bone folder won't work on polymers! The slot is offset slightly and sized to accommodate the thickness, but the centre hole is a bit too large.
Possibly heating the folds after shaping will relieve stress - I'm thinking boiling water might be sufficient.
Similarly a stitching groove might be a good idea when I get round to version 1.2 - having the thread below the wear surface can only improve things.

I've only got black TPU which doesn't photograph well, so 1st pic is a screenshot of the 'design', second shows how CNC holes guide the stitching. I think the rivet will be needed as TPU probably won't work well with adhesives. Will post more photos when I find time to give V1.2 a go.

I've been using Gutermann Extra Strong Thread - seems to work fine by hand or (manual) machine on cordura, denim, PVC and leather.

M782 in Col. 339 possibly? I've previously bought from
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195781463987
though lots of places stock it if you want to avoid postage costs.

A flap which is the shape and size of 'B' so it fully overlaps, giving a double thickness on the bottom?
Rivet through the double layer to hold in place for sewing and also to act as a foot?
If you can stand the smell, have the patches laser cut in leather including the stitch holes - this gives CNC precision spacing and makes the hand sewing more of an exercise in lacing - just don't try laser cutting pvc!

I'm fairly sure it's not me, but I've run mopeds in Shropshire for the last 20 years or so!
More than 40 years old makes them historic vehicles, so zero road tax and no requirement for an MOT, which means a non runner with a V5 is a possibility.
Fully comprehensive insurance (Footman James classic) has been less than £100 for two mopeds until last year - not sure how much you'd save in maintaining a decent no claims bonus?

I've done 3x cordura (or 2x plus zip) without problems - 4 layers needed some assistance to get through (finger pressing down on the needle clamp) but I wouldn't fancy doing that if a motor was involved.

Having said that, I have a spare (and suitably vintage looking) universal motor and a foot switch for one of my lathes. It uses a Singer compatible belt as a primary drive - I might be able to lash something together...