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I'd like this please. What happens next, do you want to message me?

Bit of a long shot. Just on the off chance someone has something. The only reason I'm riding 180 mm cranks is that they were on a bike I bought second hand and it doesn't seem to be a problem to me. Noticed a crack spreading towards the tapered mount in mine.

This is a young/small persons cycles trailer bike ( they seem to go by the name of Tag a long bike nowadays).
I bought this around 1990 and it was used by my two sons until they outgrew it. It's been hanging up in the garage for about the last fifteen years. I believe it follows the the design of the Rann trailer from the 1930s and a similar design was produced by Jack Taylor cycles. To the best of my knowledge this one was made by Helliwell a frame builder local to these parts who also runs a bike shop which is still going, Honley cycles near Huddersfield West Yorkshire.
It's nicely made from 531 and has a Sturmey 3 speed. It attaches to the towing bike via a frame similar to a rear bike rack which is shown on the photo (complete with mudguard rear light and reflector from the bike I just removed it from as I haven't got around to striping it down).
This may be of interest to someone who would prefer a classy hand built trailer bike as an alternative to the mass made offerings. A bit of a project possibly but I think everything is in working order having been stored in a dry garage over the years. I'm guessing if one was to commission a frame builder to produce a new frame something like this today it would cost several hundred pounds. I'm asking for £150
I'm based near Holmfirth West Yorkshire.

There are one or two folk around these parts who have done the John Radford memorial ride on one of his restored bikes. You would be made very welcome I'm sure. Great to see the frame having some TLC after hanging around in my garage for the last few years.

As it's a cycling forum, what are peoples thoughts on roadkill. I mostly mean recently dead pheasants and rabits that are not too squashed. I'm not sure about more exotic eating such as squirrels and badgers but I remember seeing a TV programe where a chap had a freezer full of all kinds of roadkill which he admitted to serving up to guests and only saying what they had just eaten after the meal. His thinking was that it was all free range and a shame for it to go to waste.

@user65906. Yeah, its the frame I'm selling, photo above is just to show what it looked like built up. I'm near Holmfirth, West Yorkshire. Like I said earlier in the thread this frame was built for long days on the road.

Here's a photo of the photo of the bike as it came to me. I used some parts on another build but still have everything so could put it back pretty much the way it looks here to sell as a running machine.

@fixedandsingle yes. Still for sale.

@cycleclinic, maybe we could do a deal. I'm in Holmfirth West Yorkshire though.

@Skülly Well I'll lace the hub in the same spoke in/out pattern as it has been running but I suspect there are arguments for alternating the stresses by lacing the other way too.

Planet X AL30 rebuild.
Thanks for the replies. Thinking I'll just make use of the existing hubs.
@Lukas Best price I can find for Kinlin XR300 is £68 pair but Spa Cycles have XR270 for £25 each so if I go with the Alpina spoke as linked to by @Scrabble for about £20 that would be cheaper and I get new DB spokes which would be an upgrade.

@Skülly Never thought about this before but I've have been running an 18 tooth one side for the commute down the Holme valley and 20 tooth the other and flipping the wheel for Hilly club runs in crappy weather. I guess that means my drive spokes have been alternating.

Looking to replace worn out rims on a pair of Planet X AL30 track wheels that I've been using on my commuting bike. Just asking on the off chance that someone knows if there are any rims I could get that will use the existing hub and spokes i.e. same ERD or advise how to go about figuring this out for myself. The wheels cost less than £100 so they don't owe me, it's just that the hubs and spokes are still good and I want more wheel building practice.

Thanks all.

No play now @PhilDAS. Not locked up either.

Yeah @dancing james 6Nm is stamped on the top cap but that's the torque for the wedge clamp accessed through it. That and the PDF manual diagrams confused me (was late at night). Thing is that the steering hasn't locked up like I would have expected. Hope the whole thing dosen't implode before I get home to fix it.

Yeah, stem bolt torque says 4 to 6 Nm on stem pinch bolts. But it says 6Nm on the top cap and on the PDF manual I downloaded.

Yes 6Nm felt like way over doing it. Wasn't comfortable about it. Also I feel that level of tension between the top cap and the wedge is likely to unseat the wedge. I'll probably slacken it off when I get home. Carbon fibre is scary, I'm scared I'll do something stupid and wind up with a piece of junk

I got a new Cannondale Synapse disc last Autumn. I've been having a problem with play in the headset which was persisting although I kept preloading it in the way I've been used to. I have to say that its the first bike I've owned with a full carbon fork, every other reasonably up to date machine I own has one of those star washer devices rather than the expanding wedge device in the Cannondale .To do things by the book I decided to buy a suitable torque wrench as up to now I've just owned the sort that operates in the cyclinder head bolt torque range. Last night I took the forks out cleaned everything up and put it back together, hopefully in the right order. The torque setting for the bearings is 6 nm and having now set this up with a torque wrench rather than guesswork I realise that 6nm feels massive for this situation, I would have expected the steering to be locked up pretty solid at this torque but everything feels smooth and fine. I assume this headset works differently and doesn't require preload and the torque setting is what's required to hold everything in place.
Another thing, the Cannondale intruction says that all spacers should be below the stem, non above so that the top cap and wedge assembly can support the clamping force of the stem around the fork. Mine came out of the shop with one spacer above the stem so I moved this below
Guessing lots of folk on here have experience with this sort of setup and can advise if it sounds like I've done things right.

Yes still for sale.

Woodrup don't seem to have any prices on their site but new Bob Jackson track frame prices look to start at £500.
How about £250

Thought I'd put this on here first.
I've owned this frame for a couple of years but it's too large for me to ride. I bought it as a complete working machine and I've use many of the parts to build up a Genesis frame I bought on here. I knew the original owner who was a club and Audax rider of some repute around these parts and I had the experience of riding the Paris Brest Paris and London Edinburgh London in his company. It was built by respected Leeds frame builder Woodrup. Not sure exactly how long ago, something between five and ten years. The bike was used for Audax rides for a number of years and so has a few signs of use in the form of paint chips but no dings or dents. The original owners name is on the top tube (covered with a piece of tape for the photos).

Specification
Reynolds 631
Measures 25inchs from bottom bracket centre to top of seat tube.
Top tube 23 inchs centre of seat tube to centre head tube.
Measurements in inches as I'm pretty sure that's how it was built (makes sense to me)
Not measured any angles but it was built for long days on the road rather than riding on a track.

Not keen on those graphic effects but the ones on the forks look to match those on the frame. Difficult to be sure if the silver marks on the back forks are part of the graphics theme or bits of missing paint.

Looking for advice please.
I own a few fixed gear bikes that use for my commute and club runs in the wet and winter to save wear and tear on my geared bikes. Also I just like riding fixed even here in hilly West Yorkshire.
My favorite fixed bike is a Boardman bought in 2009.
I like it because it is lighter, more responsive, more comfortable and generally less baggy than my other fixed machines.
I've never ridden a Langster but keep thinking I might like one.
What I'm wondering is would a frame of old Langster ride that much differently to the current offering or be much heavier.
Just been looking at this one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/54CM-Specialized-Langster-Single-speed-Fixed-Dynamo-Hub-Price-Drop/222599636238?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

Liking the sound of the closed Snake pass ride.