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So my supernova pure front light failed and is not sending any power to rear light, but it still shines well. So was wondering is there any way to connect the rear supernova light directly to the dynamo hub? maybe soldering a resistor or something inline (not a electrician, but can solder basic stuff)
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Also flew bike with me to a trip to San francisco , there is soo many good places to ride there, just be warned - its not flat at all, had alot of grinding to do with 32x42 easiest gear, but the views took my mind of it :> while being there bought bagsxbird bag to carry my stuff around, i like it way more than the basket i had before, no more rattles.
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Update on the build
It was performing great, but the paint was in a sad shape with alot of scratches and burn marks from extra bits that were welded on. Did not want to spend money on a new powder coat paint, so decided to strip the paint with a paint remover(that i already had on hand) and spayed a few coats of clear lacquer on top. Quite chuffed how it turned out, not sure how long will it hold tough. -
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There is this shop, that does some crazy discounts, you could hunt around there. Currently they a have a sale on sram level brakes just 14eur. but only the front,so you would need a new hose for the back. Also they have cheap shimano m315, nothing fancy but for a commuter who cares :) I just dont know if they ship to UK.
edit, forgot to tag you @hippy
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Thats one big boy caliper, the lower bolt was definitely filed away. Shimano fit just fine, there is quite some wiggle room, attaching a better photo of the caliper. If i were you i would try what alsoPhilDAS suggested - fit a 180 rotor, there seems to be room, and it would be the least expensive way to sort this.
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I have been using 160 rotors at the back, had no issues with clearance yet, but i have been running them slammed all the way back. These rotors are some generic avids, that came with china bb7's.
But i have the same issue as you, on a different bike, just on the front, i just added a few washers until it stopped rubbing, tightened the caliper bolts more than usual, seems to work fine. Im a master of dodgy setups. Hope thats helps.
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A little update on the build, as this year i have been riding more local trails than camping, so it kinda migrated to more xc oriented setup.
A Surly cheater bar and a 100mm manitou markhor at the front. Its gotten more trail capable, but its too responsive for my linking - it has a 72 degree head angle, i guess that makes it more nervous on the descents. Also drilled and riveted extra bottle cage mounts on the seat tube and downtube, drilling the placing of one of the holes was quite awkward though.
In the future planning to covert it back to bike packing mode, as i liked it more with a rigid front and a jones bar. But before that i need something thats abit more capable on the trails, but thats a new project :)
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Hey, sorry for the late response have not checked this thread for a while. Theres not a lot of clearance at the back, would have wanted to use a plus 650b rear tyre as well, but the chain stays are quite bent and the dimples are designed for a 29er tyre, managed to use a 29x2.4 maxxis ardent whitout any rubbing issues, but it was on the edge. Maybe a 2.6 650b would fit, but it would be real close.
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Hey, didnt make much photos of the process, but ill try to describe.
As i am using a steel fork, so it was quite easy - filed away the paint off the dropout for the negative side so the ground goes through the whole fork and you can attach the lamps negative wire anywhere on the fork as long as it connects to the metal.The positive side was a bit more complicated, had to buy a kit (https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/dynamos/30-schmidt-sl-contact-parts-kit-with-forward-cable-exit/), and then made a template from cardboard for the 3 holes, drilled them out ant then the kit attaches in the holes, and friction holds it in. Then routed the wire tough the small drain hole near the dropout and it exits at the crown.
Was worried that the extra width of the connector would make changing the wheel quite challenging, as i would need to spread the fork legs apart, but it just slides in whitout any need for that. If you are using a carbon fork, that would make it more complicated, as you would need another connector for the negative side.
It's quite alot of work for a dynamo setup, but now im quite pleased that i dont need to disconnect any wires while changing the wheel, its winter time here and trying to fiddle with some wires with cold fingers is not the most pleasant experience.
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Oh yes, racks finally finished!
Powder coated black, integrated lighting cables, attached lights. Thanks again to @togas for all the custom work. The front looks kinda off with nothing on it - the light sticks out like sore thumb, but got a cheap ikea basket that fits in there nicely.The wiring was quite a pain to do, but i am quite pleased with the results, even made a switch, as the supernova pure does not have one, but the tricky part was where to place it? ended up putting it behind the front rack in the hole on the axle crown, as the switch diameter was almost identical and seems to work fine.
Also went out for a ride ride this weekend and the plus tyre sure is nice on this amount of snow.
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On a later trip, had abit less gheto setup, but still in the diy spirit - made a frame bag from tyvek, also made a simple big bag for the fruit basket - also from tyvek, too keep stuff from flying all over the place after you hit a rougher section. Borrowed a saddle bag - worked okay (hated the saddle bag as it kept swaying into my legs), but needed the extra space as the trip was longer.
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Have been building up this bike for the past 2 years or so, its one of those projects where you randomly bid on a ~70£ frame on ebay and win, then later on you understand that the frame was the cheapest part of the build. But no regrets, its the most fun bike i have owned.
The current setup:
frame on-one inbred 29 - came with matching seatpost, forks surly ogre 29, xt 2x crankset, deore hydraulic brakes, jones loop bar(soo comfy on a rigid fork) , dtswiss rims with shwable thunderburt in the rear and rocket ron at the front, hope headset. Gearing is a working mess - poor mans 11 speed - running a 10 speed sram gx rear derailleur with a 11 speed sram s-700 trigger shifter (thats used on fitness bikes), shimano slx 11-40t cassette, used to run on a cheap aliexpress hanger adapter, but had problems getting on the largest cog, so asked a friend to weld on a derailleur hanger and since then it works like a charm. The front derailleur and shifter is shimano.Oh yeah and there is a small custom rack at the front kudos @togas for the custom work on the frame
this site has an extensive list of steel bikes, manufacturers and builders:
https://stahlrahmen-bikes.de/mtb-29er-650b-fatbike-36er/mountain-bikes-aus-stahl-2020?fbclid=IwAR3Yj_aijCGaGQX1cf-9QBpWv9eWKj1-rXP3NXktx8LjFI-4-QTaSglmjms
also this:
https://sour.bike/candy-shop/bikes/pasta-party/
with a 120mm fork the headangle would be 68ish and its yellow!