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@Stonehedge yes thanks I already had turned on athlete mode
I guess I'll see if the readings are any use to me as I build up more data. The variations that I can see so far (within 0.6%) are correlated to weight (which itself has a flat trend), so probably have more to do with water-levels than fat, if I understand right
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Has anyone got the Renpho bodyfat scales? If so, how accurate do you think the fat measurement is?
Mine give me 11.5%, but I just started with a personal trainer at the gym and he said 'your bodyfat must be about 5%'. I'm 193cm, 75kg, and not completely unmuscular so maybe he's right - maybe basic BIA doesn't work at the low end?
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I've gone tubeless on my summer bike. I got the 25mm gumwalls from Veloflex - Corsa Evo TLR. There's also a lighter 'race' version. I'm really impressed. Previously I had Pro-One 28mm on my wet/mudguard bike and didn't get on with them at all, then WTB exposure 30mm - really good, but they don't feel fast.
At first I was worried because the Veloflexes blew up looking smaller than the tubed 25mm tyres I had on before (Vittoria Corsa G+). I wondered whether I should have got the 28mm version, because they would probably fit. But I rode them today at 65psi, and I think they're the best feeling road tyres I've tried. The slight suspension you get at that pressure makes them feel fast, but not sloppy at all.
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I know not everyone does a long ride in their week. But if you do, that’s the one to try and spin through I think.
I did a long ride today, and pushed my cadence the whole way. It was good - I found it surprisingly easy to adapt my shifting habits by looking at the cadence readout and aiming for 80 and 90. I felt pretty fresh deep into the ride, more so than I would have if I had ground my way up the hills as per usual.
I wondered whether I would actually benefit from an easier gear (than 36/28), because going up two long and steep climbs on my route I found myself in the granny gear and my cadence dropping below where I wanted it.
You can see from the graph that my cadence really slumped during the steep mid-section on Mam Nick
It turns out I can climb out of the saddle at 80rpm, it's not necessarily fatiguing, just different.
Bonus lfgss rep if you do it fixed on a light gear (it does help).
I would love to have a fixed gear bike again, but I don't know whether I could do much with it it in Yorkshire/Peaks. Maybe with a flip-flop hub and two brakes.
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I have 52/36 and 11-28. If I'm climbing, I never feel like I run out of gears in one direction or the other. I always have an easier gear available, but I feel like when I shift into it (to intentionally increase cadence), my form is messed up and my power drops.
Yesterday's intervals were supposed to be max. efforts (what the plan calls power intervals). I achieved my highest cadence (73rpm) in a 4 minute interval @ 407w - 127% FTP.
If I look at a flat intervals I have done in the past:
15 min @ 95% FTP - 81 rpm
5 min @ 114% FTP - 83 rpmI think I'm going to forget about cadence for the remainder of this plan (the next three weeks), but once it's over. I'll try some drills
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Has anyone worked to increase their cadence and benefited from it?
I'm following one of the plans on Strava, and although I take everything on there with a pinch of salt, I noticed that it recommends doing climbing intervals at 85-90rpm and 'power intervals' (max efforts uphill or on the flat) at 95+ rpm. I did my intervals yesterday on an 8% climb, and pedalled as fast as I could while sustaining a 'good' power, but only managed to average at most 73rpm over any interval.
I think I'm naturally a slow cadence climber, and over 80rpm is probably unrealistic for me, but now I'm wondering if cadence drills would be helpful to increase it a bit.
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Imagine if the AI generated a normal-looking component. The designers would say 'No, no. It has to look freaky... so you can tell'