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Hi @RodSaetan. Are these still available? What is the hole count on the rims?
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Another option for you might be to fit a Sturmey Archer 3 or 4 speed hub, together with one of those Cyclo converters that all 2 or 3 sprockets to be fitted. That way you can keep the Cyclo deraileur but have multiple gears. I have that setup on my 1949 Paris tandem and it works. It is also an age appropriate option, so you don't lose authenticity.
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Glad you got the Hobbs.
My Paris tandem is a 1949. That came as a frame too. Unfortunately it doesn't have the original finish like yours (repainted the previous owner). Handlebars are GB, cranks and chainrings are Williams. I used Mafac Racer centre-pulls as Alvin Smith from the VCC told me that was a very common upgrade on tandems. The rear wheel is a 1949 Sturmey Archer AW hub with a Cyclo 2 cog converter. A Cyclo Standard derailleur is used to change between the 2 cogs. I could only get a standard cable for this originally, but I have now obtained a tandem length cable that I can fit. This gives a useable range of ratios and makes the bike very usable. Both rims are Weinmanns and both seats are Brooks with round logos (means pre 1955 I think).
I hope this gives you some ideas!
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Sorry @SideshowBob, I forgot to reply to you last night. Yes I'd had a good look at that catalogue, its very useful. I think that is the only model that uses the Continental lug design that my frame has. The lugs do look great, as you can see.
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@veloham I have always loved Hobbs. I have two, the first, a single speed 1948 Raceweight, was my first purchase and had been repainted by the previous owner, second is a 1947 Superbe, but that has been previously stripped and hand painted and is very shabby (it does mean that I am slightly less anxious when riding it to the pub). That was why I was so keen to keep the Claud Butler paintwork. Your Hobbs Criterium frame is excellent, just the sort of paintwork I have always wanted as it speaks of a life led!
I must admit I am tending towards making the best of the current paintwork and decals. They might not be quite correct, but cleaned up and rust treated, its likely to look better with the patinated parts that I'm likely to be able to get hold of. I'll search out the Crankalicious products, they sounds good. I definitely need to make the best of what is left of the paint and decals.
Have you got any ideas for whole frame rust removal? I have noticed that people recommend Evaporust, but I'm not sure how practical it is to dip a tandem frame! -
@user126665 that frame does look fabulous. If a frame has to be repainted, it might as well be done well, like yours!
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@veloham that is part of my dilemma I suppose. Decent condition 1930s parts aren't common or cheap. I'm unlikely to be able to afford really good condition parts. I'm not really keen on re-plating, although that is a possibility I suppose. Great call regarding water-slide decals. If H.Lloyd do them I will definitely ask about them.
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I have a dilemma and I'm interested in the views of the collective. I have a 1937 Claud Butler Ultra Shortbase tandem frame, with some fittings. Although the paintwork is very tatty, my original plan was to preserve this and complete the build with age appropriate parts. I was particularly keen on preserving what was left of the decals.
The more I looked at the frame the more I realised that it was not as original as most of it looked. The cranks are dated 1967 (but all matched) and it has braze-on Mavic canti posts at the rear. Also, although I thought the decals were original, on looking closer I could see pitting of the tubing underneath the paintwork supporting the decals, so they were obviously later, after a refurb at some point. I looked at the Reynolds 531 sticker and, although I can't get an exact match, it looks like it could be from the 60s or 70s. I then found this which dates from 1938. It looks very similar but uses different decals.
So my question to the collective is, should I preserve the paintwork and decals, or repaint with appropriate decals? What are peoples thoughts? Also, is it worth rebuilding with age appropriate parts if it is not original anyway?
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Looks like this might fit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383689069477
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I use a Cyclo adapter on an SA AW hub on my Paris tandem and it works pretty well. As you can see in my picture, I have a large cog and a small one and the Cyclo Standard deraileur is able to change between them ok.
The main problem, for me, is that I couldn't get long enough cables, so the stoker has to change the Cyclo deraileur and I change the SA hub from the front.
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Hi @jeff80, I picked up the Claud Butler from Ed. It's very nice, but lots of work to do. I'm doing research on it now.
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I bought this Paris tandem in August as a frame. It turns out to date to 1949. Handily I already had an original 26" wheel with 1949 Sturmey Archer AW hub. I managed to get hold of a Cyclo Standard derailleur complete with cables and lever, and Cyclo 2 sprocket adapter. Unfortunately the cables don't reach far enough, so if anyone has a tandem length Cyclo Standard cable let me know.
I am considering building a 27" wheelset, replacement saddles and fitting mudguards as future upgrades.
All I have to do now is convince my wife to ride as stoker!
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I also added some nice GB handlebars with original grips and some Shockstop honking rubbers, curtesy of @Big_Block, which I can heartily recommend.
The bike rode really well at Eroica Britannia this year, although lower gears would have been nice!
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It's been a while since I updated this so I thought I would add some updated pictures. This bike isn't finished yet but it's working and usable.
I had new wheels built with Airlite small flange hubs and Fiamme rims and added a 4 speed Atom freewheel and a Campagnolo Gran Sport derailleur. I also fitted a Williams crankset.
I was going to get the frame repainted, but to be honest I'm enjoying riding it as it is and it does have the benefit of not looking nickable when parked outside the pub. So I'm in two minds whether to go ahead with the respray or not. I might do it in the future.
Great. I can pick them up around Wednesday next week if that is ok? I'll DM you.